Whiteline Sway Bar Lateral Locks 16mm to 33mm

Whiteline Sway Bar Lateral Locks - 16mm to 33mm - Part #KLL116 to KLL133

If you have ever pulled a wheel on an EK or DC2 and found the front sway bar shoved over to one side with the bushing half out of the bracket, this is the fix. Whiteline sway bar lateral locks are a pair of split alloy collars that clamp onto the bar right beside the frame mounts and stop it from walking sideways under cornering load. They work on the stock bar and on any aftermarket bar with a round section next to the bracket, and they go on without dropping the bar.

What It Is and Why It Works

A sway bar only does its job if it stays put in the mounts. Honda's factory setup on the EG, EK, DC2, EP3 and DC5 relies on rubber bushings and, on some bars, a small welded ring to keep the bar centered. Once those bushings soften or you swap in a stiffer poly bushing that grips less, the bar starts sliding in the brackets every time you turn in hard. That shifts the effective lever arm, lets the bar rub the subframe or a tie rod, and on a K-swapped chassis it can push the bar into the header. The lock is a two-piece collar with a bolt on each side; you tighten it against the bar next to the bracket and the bar cannot move laterally anymore.

Each kit is two locks, so one kit handles one bar. Sizing is by bar diameter in a 2 to 3mm window, so a 24mm rear bar takes the KLL124 and a 27mm front bar takes the KLL127. Whiteline sells them in ranges from 15 to 16mm up through 31 to 33mm, and we carry all eight. They bolt on in a few minutes per side with the car on jack stands.

Specs

Available Options

Fitment

These are universal by bar diameter, not by chassis. Measure the bar with calipers right next to the frame mount, then pick the size range that covers it. On a Honda that means a stock EK or DC2 front bar usually lands in the 23 to 24mm range, a stock EP3 or DC5 front bar in the 21 to 22mm or 23 to 24mm range depending on trim, and most aftermarket 22 to 27mm rear bars in the matching range. If your bar has a stepped or knurled section next to the bracket, measure the round part the lock will sit on.

What to Know Before You Buy

Measure before you order. The single biggest return reason on lateral locks is guessing the bar size from a forum post. Honda used several front bar diameters across the same chassis (a 2005 RSX Type-S front bar is not the same as a base RSX bar), and aftermarket bars are often a millimeter off their advertised size. Put calipers on it. If your bar measures 22.5mm, buy the 21 to 22mm lock, not the 23 to 24mm, because the collar needs to bite.

If you are installing a new Whiteline rear bar like the BHR67XZ for the RSX and EP3, skip these; that kit ships with its own pair of lateral locks. These are for the bar you already have, the front bar on a car where you only upgraded the rear, or a Progress or Eibach bar that came without them. Pair them with fresh poly sway bar bushings and you will get most of the crispness back that a tired factory setup lost, for less than the cost of a new bar.

If you are running a K24 in an EG or EK with a tight header, get the bar located where you want it first, then lock it. These hold position but they will not fix a bar that is already contacting something.