Whiteline Adjustable Sway Bar End Links Universal 80-320mm

Whiteline Universal Adjustable Sway Bar End Links 80-320mm - Part #W23180

Every K-swapped EG and EK we see with a Whiteline or Progress front bar eventually needs a custom-length end link, either because the swap header wants the bar rotated for clearance or because lowering the car put the stock links at a bad angle. These Whiteline universal sway bar end links are the answer: a pair of cut-to-length steel links with a 10mm ball joint on each end, good for anything from 80mm to 320mm center to center.

What It Is and Why It Works

A sway bar end link is the last piece between the bar and the control arm, and when it is the wrong length the bar is preloaded at rest, which makes the car handle differently turning left versus right. Factory Honda links are fixed length and the rubber-and-ball designs on the DC2 and EK wear out and knock. This link uses a threaded rod between two heavy-duty steel ball joints. You cut the rod to length, thread the joints on, and you get around 25mm of on-car adjustment to zero out preload once everything is bolted up. The joints rotate to any angle, so a bar that has been clocked for header clearance still gets a straight pull.

One part number covers hundreds of cars, which is why we keep them on the shelf. On a Honda they are most useful on a K24-swapped EG or EK where the stock bar has been moved, on a lowered DC2 or EP3 that needs a shorter link, and on any car where a heavier aftermarket bar has bent the factory links.

Specs

Fitment

Universal, cut to length. Measure center to center between the sway bar eye and the control arm or chassis mount on your car with the suspension at ride height, then cut the threaded rod so the finished link lands in that range with room to adjust. The ball studs are 10mm; if your bar or arm uses 12mm holes you need a different link.

What to Know Before You Buy

Confirm the hole size first. These are 10mm studs. Most Honda front bars and control arm tabs from the EG through the DC5 use 10mm, but some aftermarket bars and most rear bar brackets on newer chassis use 12mm, and a 10mm stud in a 12mm hole will egg out the hole in a month. Measure the hole, not the bolt that came out of it.

Measure length with the car on the ground at ride height, not on the lift. The link needs to be the distance between the bar eye and the arm tab with the suspension loaded, and that number changes a lot between full droop and ride height on a lowered car. Cut the rod a few millimeters long and use the adjustment to dial it in; you cannot add material back.

If you are buying a complete Whiteline rear bar like the BHR67XZ, it does not include links, so this is the pair to add to the cart. Torque the ball joint nuts to spec and recheck after the first drive; new links settle. Do a quick alignment check if you have also lowered the car, since Whiteline recommends one with the install.