MFactory H22/H23/F22 Final Drive Gear Set for Accord/Prelude

MFactory Final Drive Gear Set - H22, H23, F22 & F23 (4.64, 5.15)

A final drive change multiplies the power you already have through every gear in the box. On an H22 or F-series Accord or Prelude, that's the difference between a car that pulls adequately and one that feels genuinely quick, without touching the engine. These transmissions came with a 4.266 final drive, and both options here are considerably shorter than that.

Check Your Case ID And Your Differential

Two things to confirm before ordering, and the second matters more than people expect.

This fits transmissions with the following case IDs: H2A5, H2U5, P2A5, P2U5, P2A8, P2U8, M2A4, M2Y4, M2S4, and M2L5.

It will not fit two setups that exist in these cars:

The OEM 15 bolt viscous LSD. If that's what's in your transmission, this isn't the right gear set. Count the bolts on your ring gear.

The SH transmission with ATTS. The Prelude SH uses Honda's Active Torque Transfer System, which is a different differential arrangement entirely and isn't compatible with this.

Both are worth checking before you order rather than after the case is split.

What A Final Drive Actually Changes

Worth explaining properly, because it's easy to confuse with a gearset.

Your final drive is the last gear reduction between the transmission and your wheels. Every gear passes through it, which means changing it affects all of them at once. A gearset changes individual ratios. A final drive shifts the whole transmission.

Go numerically higher and you get more torque multiplication at the wheels in every gear. The car accelerates harder, pulls out of corners more willingly, and feels considerably more alive.

The trade is speed per gear. You'll shift sooner, your rpm at a given road speed goes up, and top speed comes down. On a heavier car like an Accord or a Prelude that's often a very good trade, since these chassis carry more weight than the engine strictly wants to move.

4.64 Or 5.15?

You're starting from 4.266, so both options are real steps. The right one depends on what the car is for.

4.64 (MFT-TRS-02H46) is the balanced choice. A clear improvement in acceleration while keeping highway rpm reasonable enough to live with. If the car is a daily or a weekend cruiser that sees real distance, this is where to start.

5.15 (MFT-TRS-02H52) is the aggressive option, and coming from 4.266 it's a large jump. Serious torque multiplication in every gear, well suited to autocross, track use, or drag applications where you're living in the low gears. On the highway you'll be spinning noticeably higher rpm, and that gets tiring on a long drive.

Be honest about your commute before picking. Almost everyone wants the shorter ratio until they've spent ninety minutes on the freeway with it.

Pair It With A Limited Slip

Worth thinking about seriously, because it's where a lot of the gain gets realized.

More torque multiplication means more torque at the wheels, and on a front-drive car with an open differential that often just means more wheelspin from the unloaded side. A shorter final drive can genuinely make an open-diff car worse out of a corner, since you're feeding more torque into a system with no way to manage it.

A limited slip sends that torque to the wheel with grip instead. And practically, both parts require splitting the transmission case, so doing them together means one job rather than two on a gearbox that has to come out either way.

What Else To Sort While You're In There

Your speedometer will read wrong. Changing the final drive changes output speed relative to your wheels, so the speedo and odometer will be off. Plan on a correction.

Inspect bearings and seals. Anything you remove to reach the ring gear should go back in fresh if it has real miles on it. They cost almost nothing next to the labor of getting to them.

Look at your synchros. These cars are now twenty-five to thirty-five years old. If the transmission has started grinding, this is the moment to deal with it rather than pulling the box again in a year.

Mention it to your tuner. Gearing changes how load builds in each gear, so if the car is tuned it's worth a conversation.

Fitment

1992-2001 Honda Prelude and Accord with H22, H23, F22, or F23 transmissions

Case IDs: H2A5, H2U5, P2A5, P2U5, P2A8, P2U8, M2A4, M2Y4, M2S4, M2L5.

Does not fit transmissions with the OEM 15 bolt viscous LSD, or SH models with ATTS.

Who Should Run One

This is for the Prelude or Accord owner who wants the car to accelerate harder without chasing power, and for the builder who's realized gearing is the cheapest performance available on a heavier chassis. Autocross, track days, or a street car you want feeling urgent. Check your case ID, count your differential bolts, pick your ratio honestly, and sort your speedo.

Fits: 1992-2001 Honda Prelude and Accord, H22, H23, F22, and F23 transmissions, see case IDs above. Part numbers: MFT-TRS-02H46 (4.64) and MFT-TRS-02H52 (5.15). Stock final drive: 4.266. Does not fit: OEM 15 bolt viscous LSD or SH with ATTS. Note: speedometer correction required after installation. Pairs well with a limited slip differential.