Innovative Mounts 92-93 Integra Motor Mounts (Hydro)

Innovative Mounts 92-93 Integra Motor Mounts (Hydro)

Two things send people looking for this kit. Either the factory mounts in your DA9 Integra have turned to mush and the engine is rocking into the frame rail every time you get on it, or you're pulling the cable transmission out and going hydro behind that B18A1. This Innovative Mounts kit covers both jobs, which is why the part is labeled a replacement and a conversion kit at the same time.

What It Is and Why It Works

Innovative Mounts builds this kit (part number 49351) for the 1992-1993 Acura Integra DA9 chassis running a B-series engine, specifically the non-VTEC B18A1, with a manual hydraulic transmission. It also works as the mount side of a cable to hydraulic conversion, which is the main reason DA9 owners buy it. If your car is a GS-R with the B17A1, this is the wrong part number and Innovative points you at 49350 instead.

The engineering story is simple and it's the same across the Innovative catalog. Honda's original mounts are fluid-filled dampers, essentially little hydraulic cans tuned to isolate a stock 140 horsepower engine at idle. They work great when new and they go soft fast. Innovative deletes the fluid and replaces the rubber with a polyurethane bushing pressed into a steel housing. The engine stops walking under load, wheel hop settles down, and throttle response feels more immediate because the powertrain isn't rocking a half inch before it starts pushing the car.

Be honest with yourself about the trade. A urethane bushing is stiffer than the OEM rubber it replaces, so it passes MORE engine vibration and noise into the chassis, not less. That is the whole point of the part. You will feel more at idle and in the 1000 to 2000 rpm range, especially with a high compression or lopey cam setup. Owners consistently report the buzz backs off after a few hundred miles of break-in, but it never goes back to stock. The 75A black bushing this SKU ships with is Innovative's 250 to 400 horsepower tier and it's the most street-livable of the firm options.

The kit includes three mounts (front, rear, and passenger/transmission) plus Innovative's cable to hydro conversion actuator. That actuator bolts to the lower front radiator support ahead of the radiator, runs the factory transmission slave cylinder, and uses a 5/8 inch OEM spec master cylinder bore so pedal feel stays close to stock. It pivots on spherical bearings and works in the same plane as the clutch release fork, so the fork doesn't bind and you don't chew up a clutch prematurely. Innovative does not include the steel braided clutch line or the OEM slave cylinder, so budget for both.

Specs

Fitment

Manual transmission cars only, and specifically DA9 chassis with a hydraulic transmission or a car being converted from cable to hydraulic. The 92-93 GS-R with the B17A1 uses a different kit. This part number does not cover automatic cars.

What to Know Before You Buy

The single biggest mistake on this platform is buying the hydro kit for a cable car or the cable kit for a hydro car. Go look at your transmission before you order. If there's a clutch cable running from the firewall to a lever on the trans, and you're keeping it that way, you want Innovative's cable replacement kit for the DA9 instead. If you already run a hydraulic transmission, or you're swapping to one, this is the correct kit.

Note what's in the box and what isn't. This kit gives you front, rear, and passenger side mounts. It does not include the driver side engine block bracket that bolts on under the timing belt cover. If yours is cracked or you're mixing and matching B-series blocks, source that separately before the car is on jack stands.

Grease and torque matter. Bolt everything in loosely, let the engine settle on its own weight, then torque the mounts. Tightening a firm mount with the engine hanging from a load leveler is how you end up with a permanently preloaded mount and a car that shakes at 2500 rpm. And take the return policy seriously: once these are bolted down and the bolt heads leave impressions on the powder coat, they can't go back.

If your car is a daily driver and you're only chasing tired mounts, not power, look at whether the softer bushing option makes more sense. Stiffer is not automatically better here. Stiffer earns its keep when you're making real power and hooking up, and it costs you comfort every mile in between.