Innovative Mounts 90-93 Accord CB7 DX/LX Manual Mount Kit

Innovative Mounts 90-93 Accord CB7 DX/LX Manual Mount Kit

Thirty-plus years in, the mounts in your CB7 are done. The fluid is out of them, the F22 rocks when you get on it, and every gear change comes with a clunk you can feel through the shifter. This is Innovative's replacement engine mount kit for the 1990-1993 Accord DX and LX, part number 29355, built for cars still running the F-series engine and the original 1990-1993 manual transmission.

Read the next section before you order. Innovative makes several kits for this chassis and they are not interchangeable.

Making Sure This Is the Right Kit

The CB7 is a chassis people modify, and Innovative splits their kits by what's actually bolted to the engine rather than by what the car left the factory as. Your trim, your transmission generation, and whether you've swapped engines all change the part number.

The one that catches people is the transmission generation. If your CB7 has picked up a 94-01 F-series box or an H22 somewhere in the last three decades, and plenty have, this is the wrong kit and you want the 29350. The EX is also its own part number, so DX/LX in the title is doing real work. Go look at what's in the car rather than what the badge says.

What It Is and Why It Works

Your factory mounts are rubber with fluid-filled damping chambers. Honda used them because the Accord was a quiet family car, and they do a good job of keeping engine vibration out of the cabin. What they don't do is hold the engine still, and after this many years the fluid has usually leaked out and the rubber has gone soft. That's the clunk and the movement you're feeling.

Innovative deletes the fluid chamber and runs a polyurethane bushing in a steel body. The engine stops moving around, so throttle response tightens up, wheel hop settles down, and shifts feel cleaner because the drivetrain isn't rocking between gears.

Be clear about the trade, because most listings get this backwards. Removing the fluid damping means more vibration reaches the chassis, not less. Innovative states this plainly themselves: their bushings absorb what they can, but you'll notice some vibration depending on your engine and power level. A firmer mount controls the engine better and transmits more of it to you. That's the mechanism, not a defect. Anyone selling you a stiffer mount and a smoother ride at the same time is telling you what you want to hear.

Choosing Your Durometer

Worth being honest about what these bands mean on this chassis. A stock F22 in a CB7 makes well under half of what the 75A is rated for, so unless you're boosted, every one of these has more capacity than your engine is asking for. That means on a CB7 you're really choosing how much vibration you're willing to live with, not how much power you need to hold. If the car sees street miles, take the 75A. The 85A and 95A make sense on a built or boosted setup, or a car that's already stripped and loud enough that you won't notice. Stiffer is not better by default here.

Specs

Fitment

Covers both body styles, since CB7 is the sedan and CB9 is the wagon. Does not fit the EX, does not fit automatics, and does not fit a 94-01 transmission of any kind.

What to Know Before You Buy

You need the Honda F-series timing belt post mount, part number 11910-PT0-010, to run this kit. It isn't in the box. If your car still has its original one and it's in good shape you're fine, but check before the old mounts come out rather than discovering it mid-install with the engine on a jack. We can get you the Honda piece if yours is missing or cracked.

Once these bolt down they're yours. Innovative doesn't accept returns or exchanges on mounts that have been installed, because bolting them in leaves impressions on the surfaces. Confirm your transmission generation and your durometer before anything touches the car, and test fit first.

Innovative recommends a mechanic or specialist handle the install. On a full mount kit that's fair advice. You're supporting the engine while the mounts come out one at a time, and getting each one located correctly matters for how the whole drivetrain sits.

Do the whole kit at once rather than chasing one bad mount. If one has failed at this age the others are the same age, and a car with one firm mount and three tired ones still moves around. You'll also want to look at the shift linkage bushings while you're under there, because a CB7 with fresh mounts and worn linkage bushings still shifts vague and you'll wonder why the mounts didn't fix it.

Who shouldn't buy this: if your mounts are intact and the car is stock and you like that it's quiet, leave them alone. This kit trades refinement for engine control. That's a good trade on a car that's leaking mounts or making power, and a bad one on a clean survivor you drive to work.