Description
Hybrid Racing Shifter Cables - 07-13 Honda Fit & Jazz (GD3 / GE8)
The Fit has quietly become one of the best cheap track cars you can build. It's light, it's tossable, and the aftermarket has caught up to what people are doing with them. But the stock shifter cables are a weak link once you start driving the car the way a track build asks for. The factory cables use plastic parts that flex, and when you're banging through gears at the limit, that flex turns into a vague shift and the occasional missed gear right when you can't afford one. These cables fix that.
Hybrid Racing shifter cables are a performance upgrade over the stock OEM cables. The solid rod ends, permanently lubricated core, spherical bearings, and aluminum end links give the cables a firmer, tighter feel than OEM, which means fewer missed shifts and a more connected feel to the chassis. They're heat resistant up to 225°F with a max bend radius of 5" for the best cable life.
Built for a Car That Gets Driven Hard
When you're building a Fit into a track car, every connection between you and the drivetrain matters, and the shifter is one you're using on every corner entry and exit. These cables run stainless steel push rods and stainless steel swivel support tubes in place of the factory plastic ones, which are a known failure point on the OEM cables and exactly the kind of part that lets go when you lean on the car. The rod ends and mounting bushings are CNC machined from 6061 aluminum, then black anodized before being laser etched with the Hybrid Racing logo. Every plastic piece that flexes or breaks on the stock cables has been replaced with metal, so the shift stays crisp lap after lap.
These are not the cheap reproduction cables floating around out there. Every piece has been engineered, tested, and verified in our own cars, because a track build is only as good as the parts you trust at speed.
Direct Replacement for Your OEM Cables
These are a direct replacement for your factory shifter cables. The aluminum bushings make installation a little simpler, but the bigger win is dropping another plastic part that flexes and causes a sloppy shift.
What's Included
- Two Hybrid Racing performance shifter cables
- Two cotter pins
- Clips for the shifter end
You'll reuse your OEM center bracket and cable seal.
Fitment
- 2007-2008 Honda Fit / Jazz (GD3, first gen)
- 2009-2013 Honda Fit / Jazz (GE8, second gen)
These cables are designed specifically for the GD3 and GE8 Fit/Jazz. They may work on other applications, but those aren't supported by Hybrid Racing.
FITMENT
INSTALL GUIDE
Install guide
Hybrid Racing Shifter Cables 07-13 Fit & Jazz Install Guide
- Difficulty
- Moderate
- Steps
- 43
- Time required
- 30 min – 1 hr
- Category
- Drivetrain
Tools
Qty- Quantity: —10mm Deep-Socket
- Quantity: —5.5mm Socket
- Quantity: —Philips Driver
- Quantity: —10mm Socket
- Quantity: —Channel-Lock Pliers
- Quantity: —Flat-Head Driver
- Quantity: —Sharp Blade
- Quantity: —5lb Hammer
01 Remove Battery



- Disconnect Batter Terminals
- cautionRemove GROUND Terminal first.
- Use 10mm Deep-Socket to loosen x2 Nuts for batter Tie-Down
02 Remove Battery
03 Remove Intake Box



- Unplug MAF connector. Release latch on connector by pushing down on the tab.
- Using 5.5mm Socket or Philips Driver, loosen Throttle-Body clamp.
- Using 10mm Socket, remove the x2 intake box mount bolts
04 Remove Intake Box



- Rotate front of Intake-Box upwards.
- Then lightly pull towards drivers side (US).
- Reach behind the Intake-Box and pull it off of the Throttle-Body
- Remove clamp and pull metal PCV tube out of grommet.
- noteGrommet on vehicle used to make this Guide is broken and no longer had clamp.
- After Intake-Box removed, the top of Transmission and the Shifter Cables will be exposed
05 Disconnect Cables from Transmission


- noteCables removed from the vehicle in this guide are not OE. But the removal procedure is the same.
- Remove the Shifter Cable Clips. Use a Channel-Lock pliers and/or Flat-Head Driver to remove the clips.
- noteFlat-Head Drive shown in first image, Channel-Lock in second image.
- cautionThe Cable Clips are most tedious part of removal and install! On older vehicles, it can take a lot of force to remove.
06 Disconnect Cables from Transmission

- Push the cables (in direction of arrows) into the exhuast tunnel to disconnect them from the bracket.
- Once removed from the bracket you are now free to remove the cables from the pins. Its important that you do this step first in order to allow for this endlink to slide off of the pin without damaging it.
07 Disconnect Cables from Transmission


- Remove the Cotter-Pin from cable on top of Transmission and slide the endlink off.
- noteThis is the Front-Back cable. It transmits the Front-Back action of the shifter to the transmission.
- Remove the Cotter-Pin from the cable on backside of Transmission and slide the endlink off.
- noteThis is the Left-Right cable. It transmits the Left-Right action of the shifter to the transmission.
08 Remove Heat Shield



- Unclip A/C Condenser drain from stand-off mount
- Unclip Oxygen sensor from black metal stand-off mount
- Unscrew the white plastic A/C Condenser stand-off mount. This will expose x1 of the x3 nuts holding Heat-Shield.
09 Remove Heat Shield



- Use 10mm Socket to remove x3 Nuts holding Heat-Shield to Chassis.
- x1 Under A/C Drain stand-off
- x1 On drivers side (US) of CAT (hidden above CAT in image)
- x1 On passengers side (US) of CAT
- Move Heat-Shield to expose Shifter Cable Mount and Chassis Grommet
10 Remove Chassis Mount
11 Remove Center Console



- Pull up on the small panel underneath the handbrake.
- noteRemove this panel will console to slip over the handbrake
- Use a Philips-Driver to remove the bolt in rear cavity of console.
12 Remove Center Console



- Remove shift knob.
- noteDo NOT need to remove boot
- Remove the x2 Panel-Clips in drivers and passengers foot-wells
13 Remove Center Console
14 Remove A/C Duct



- After removing the console, remove the A/C duct. This will give you a better line-of-sight to the cable chassis grommet.
- Pull down on the slip fit connection to disconnect.
15 Disconnect Cables from Shifter



- noteVehicle used to make this guide had Hybrid Racing Short Shifter installed. Procedure to remove cables will be the same with OE shifter.
- Remove the shifter cable clips. Use same technique as removal from the Transmission.
- Remove cotter-pin holding Left-Right cable to shifter.
- Spread retaining clip on Front-Back cable. Then push the cable end-link towards drivers side (US).
16 Remove Shifter Cables



- After cables disconnected from shifter, push cables into the Exhaust-Tunnel. This will also pop the Chassis Grommet loose.
- Front underneath the vehicle, pull/push cables out of the vehicle.
- cautionThe bushings, endlinks and brackets on cables easily get caught on shifter, wiring and plumbing.
- noteIt will take several iterations of moving between interior, engine bay, and underneath vehicle to free the cables. This is a tedious step.
17 Remove Shifter Cables
18 Prepare Cables



- Cables are supplied with x2 inserts. The inserts are different inner diameters. Use the Black insert on 09-14 Fits.
- Put insert into spherical bearing on FB cable. Use supplied retaining ring to lock insert in place.
- cautionDOUBLE CHECK that retaining ring is fully seated into groove on insert.
19 Prepare Cables



- The Chassis seal will need to be harvested from OE cables.
- Using a sharp blade, cut through seal as shown in pictures.
- cautionIf cut differently from shown in guide, it can be much more difficult to reinstall with Hybrid Racing Shifter Cables.
- noteCables shown in these 3 images are 07-08 Fit cables. Grommet is almost identical to 9-14 Fit (we did not have set of uncut OE 9-14 Fit cables on-hand during making of this guide)
20 Prepare Cables


- Remove the mounting bracket from OE cables. Use a 10mm socket to remove bolt.
- Bend bracket open so that there is large enough gap to remove OE cables.
- cautionDO NOT install on Hybrid Racing Cables until cables are positioned in car.
21 Prepare Cables



- From the shifter side of Cables, push the fiberglass heat sleave on to cables.
- Push all the way to transmission side of Cables.
- noteTip: push over the cable bracket mounting bushings. This will hold heat-sleave in place while feeding cables through engine bay. (See 3rd image)
22 Route Cables



- Pass the shifter end of cables underneath the clutch line.
- Route cables along side of exhaust.
- Once cables are not hanging out of engine bay, move to underside of car to feed cables into cabin from the exhaust tunnel.
23 Route Cables



- From underneath the car, push/pull cables into the cabin.
- Once cables are inside cabin, move to interior to pull through.
24 Route Cables


- Pull cables further into cabin.
- Put cables into there position on shifter (See 2nd image).
- cautionDO NOT mount cables to shifter or connect endlinks to shifter, yet. You will need compliance in the cables to mount bracket to chassis and install exhaust tunnel grommet.
25 Connect Cable to Transmission



- Place FB cable bushing in transmission bracket.
- Place FB endlink on gear selector pin and retain using supplier cotter-pin
- Repeat the same procedure for LR cable.
26 Exhaust Tunnel Bracket



- Slide cable bracket from OE cables onto Hybrid Racing Cables.
- Squeeze bracket closed so that the 10mm bolt can be reinstalled.
- Tighten 10mm bolt, the push bracket onto studs.
27 Exhaust Tunnel Grommet

- Put grommet onto cables.
- Then push grommet into place. Clip the front of grommet into place first, then work the grommet into place from front to back.
- noteUsing reference arrows, start at Red, then move to Orange -> Yellow -> Green
28 Connect Cables to Shifter



- Push LR cable endlink onto shifter pin.
- Use supplied cotter-pin to retain cable.
- Clip FB cable endlink onto shifter pin.
29 Connect Cables to Shifter


- By hand, push cable clips into place.
- cautionDo not push cable clips all the way into place, yet. Before fully installing, need to first check that car can get into all gears.
30 Connect Cables to Transmission
31 Cable/Shifter Function Test
32 Install Cable Clips


- Using a 5lb hammer, tap the cable clips into place on both shifter and transmission.
- noteTip: the impact force from small swings of 5lb hammer is enough to push clips into place. Excessive force is not needed.
33 Install Heat Sleeve


- Pull heat sleeve down cables until it touches exhaust tunnel bracket.
- Use the supplied Stainless steel ties to pinch heat sleeve only shifter cables.
- noteTip: We recommend neatly bending the extra length of SS ties after tightening. This will prevent a sharp edge from cutting/snipping.
34 Reinstall Heat Shield



- Place heat shield over the x3 studs.
- Clip oxygen sensor wires to black metal bracket.
- The then tighten 10mm nut onto stud.
- Twist on the white plastic stand-off for A/C condenser drain. Then clip condenser drain into place.
35 Reinstall Heat Shield
36 Reinstall Intake Box



- Double check that throttle body clamp is correctly positioned.
- Route intake into place by pushing air-duct behind ECU.
- Then push into position and mount to throttle body.
37 Reinstall Intake Box



- Connect MAF
- Tighten throttle body clamp
- Tighten PCV clamp
38 Reinstall Intake Box
39 Reinstall Battery


- Reconnect the starter wire harness to its mounting tab
- The reinstall battery tray and batter.
- noteTip: After battery in reinstalled, we recommend test driving the car before reinstalling the center console.
40 Reinstall Center Console


- Reinstall the HVAC duct. Push up until the top of duct is level highlighted part of dashboard (Red Arrow)
41 Reinstall Center Console



- With rear of center console raised, push console into place in foot wells.
- Lower the console and feed the shifter rod through shift boot.
- Clip the hand brake cover into place.
42 Reinstall Center Console



- Tighten the bolt in rear cavity of console.
- Then install panel clips in driver and passenger footwells .
43 Final Step
Finishing up
After routing and connecting the cables, confirm the car shifts into all forward gears and reverse. Fully seat the cable clips, secure the heat sleeve, then reinstall the heat shield, intake, battery, and center console, finishing with the shift knob.












