Honda K20C1/K20C4/K20C8 Crankshaft 13310-RPY-G10

Genuine Honda Crankshaft (13310-RPY-G10) - K20C Turbo

This is the genuine Honda crankshaft for the K20C turbo engine, the part that turns the pistons' up-and-down motion into the rotation that drives your flywheel and transmission. It rides on the main bearings and carries the rod journals your connecting rods clamp onto. Simple job, but everything downstream depends on it being right, which is why when you need one, you want the OEM part with factory geometry, not an aftermarket forged unit you don't need or a used core of unknown condition. It fits the K20C1, K20C4, and K20C8 across the Type R, Integra Type S, Accord 2.0T, RDX, and TLX.

When You Need A New Crank

You're usually here for one of a few reasons: bringing factory geometry back after a spun bearing, fixing journal scoring, or replacing a crank that miked out of spec during a teardown. In all of those, you want the original stroke and journal geometry back, not a different rotating assembly, and that's exactly what the OEM crank gives you. No displacement change, no surprises, just back to factory baseline.

If you're replacing a crank because a bearing failed, the crank is the symptom, not the cause. Find out why the bearing went, oil starvation, a clogged passage, a failed oil pump, debris, and fix that first. Dropping a fresh crank into the same problem gets you a second spun bearing. Clean the entire oiling system thoroughly before the new crank goes in, because its survival depends on it.

OEM Geometry, Not A Guess

The reason to buy new and genuine rather than a used core is certainty. A used crank is a gamble on condition, you don't know its history, how it was run, or whether it's within spec until you've paid for it and miked it. A new genuine Honda crank is known-good, to factory spec, every time. On a part this central to the build, guessing on core condition is how builds get ruined; a fresh OEM crank removes that variable entirely.

This is Honda part 13310-RPY-G10, which supersedes the earlier 13310-RPY-G00, so it's the current production version of the part.

Fits The Whole K20C Family

This crank covers a wide range of the K20C turbo engines, which is worth knowing since these engines share the same bottom-end architecture.

It fits the K20C1, K20C4, and K20C8, which spans the Civic Type R (FK2, FK8, and FL5), the Integra Type S (DE5), the Accord 2.0T, and the Acura RDX and TLX. Whether you're building a Type R, an Integra Type S, or refreshing the bottom end on a 2.0T Accord, RDX, or TLX, this is the crank for the K20C.

That said, because fitment can vary across model years and engine variants, and because a wrong crankshaft is an expensive, labor-intensive mistake, confirm this is correct for your exact car by VIN and engine code before ordering. Verify through an OE catalog with your year, trim, and VIN, don't assume based on chassis alone.

This Is A Full Engine-Out Job

No sugarcoating it: replacing the crankshaft means a complete engine teardown. You'll strip the engine to get to the crank and main bearing bed, measure main and rod bearing clearances, and inspect the block and rod big ends while you're in there. This is deep engine work, not a bolt-on, and if you're not equipped and experienced for a full rebuild, it's a job for a builder who is.

While you're that far in, do it right: fresh bearings measured to spec, a spotless oiling system, and a thorough inspection of everything the old crank touched. The crank is one part of a rebuild, and the rebuild is only as good as the care around it.

Fitment

2015-2017 Honda Civic Type R (FK2)
2017-2021 Honda Civic Type R (FK8)
2023-2026 Honda Civic Type R (FL5)
2024-2026 Acura Integra Type S (DE5)
2018-2022 Honda Accord 2.0T
2022-2025 Acura RDX
2022-2025 Acura TLX

K20C1, K20C4, and K20C8 engines. Part number 13310-RPY-G10 (supersedes 13310-RPY-G00). Genuine Honda. Confirm by VIN and engine code before ordering.

This is for the builder replacing a damaged or out-of-spec crankshaft in any K20C engine who wants genuine OEM geometry and a known-good part rather than gambling on a used core. Factory stroke and journal spec, current production supersession, and the certainty that matters on a part this central. Confirm fitment by VIN, fix whatever killed the last crank, clean the oiling system, and build it back right.