Cometic K20 K24 Oil Pan Gasket, No Hondabond Needed

Cometic K20/K24 AFM Oil Pan Gasket - Part #C14011-060

Honda never gave the K-series an oil pan gasket. The pan seals to the block with a bead of liquid gasket, which works fine at the factory and turns into a scraping session and a cure-time wait every time you drop the pan for a baffle, a pickup, a clutch job on a swap, or a leak that started at the chain case corner. Cometic's C14011-060 is the fix: a .060 inch die-cut gasket that seals a K20 or K24 pan without Hondabond, so the pan goes back on in minutes and comes off just as easily next time.

What It Is and Why It Works

Cometic cuts this gasket from AFM, an aramid fiber sheet with a rubber binder that's built for oil and coolant joints with a stamped or cast flange. It compresses to .060 inch, seals against the small irregularities in a stamped steel or cast aluminum pan, and needs no sealant. Cometic lists it for the K20A1, K20A2, and K20A3, and the same pan bolt pattern carries across the K24A and K24Z engines in the TSX, Accord, CR-V, and 2012-2013 Civic Si, which is why their application chart runs all the way to 2013. The extra .060 inch between pan and block adds about 1.5mm of pickup-to-pan clearance, which changes nothing you'll notice. What you will notice is being able to pull the pan on a track car to inspect the pickup or swap a baffle without a tube of sealant and an overnight wait.

Specs

Fitment

Cometic's chart also lists the 2002-2003 RSX and other early K20A2 and K24A1 cars under the engine codes above; the pan-to-block flange is the same across those years. Also correct for K20 and K24 swaps into any chassis as long as the pan bolts to a K-series block.

What to Know Before You Buy

Clean both surfaces to bare metal; old Hondabond left in the corners will hold the gasket off the block and leak. Cometic designs AFM to run dry, and that's how we'd install it, with one exception: a small dab of Hondabond at the two front corners where the timing chain case meets the block, because that seam is where every K-series pan leak starts. Snug the 6mm pan bolts in a spiral from the center out to factory spec rather than cranking on them; over-torquing crushes a fiber gasket and starts the leak you just fixed. If you're running an aftermarket baffled pan, check that its flange is flat and free of casting flash before you trust any gasket to it. This gasket does not cover the oil pan drain plug crush washer, so grab one of those while you're ordering.