ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit for Honda D-Series & B-Series

ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit for Honda D-Series and B-Series - Part #208-2801 / #208-2802

If you're hanging a lightweight flywheel and a stage 2 clutch on a D16 or a B18, the last thing holding it all to the crank should not be 30 year old factory bolts. The ARP flywheel bolt kit is the cheap insurance on that job. These are forged 8740 chromoly bolts from ARP's Pro Series line, heat treated before the threads are rolled, with a flat 12-point head and a larger than stock shank diameter that improves how the flywheel registers on the crank.

What It Is and Why It Works

Every clutch engagement and every rev toward the limiter tries to shear these bolts. ARP rates the Pro Series flywheel bolts at 200,000 psi, well beyond what the factory hardware handles, and the 12-point head takes torque cleanly without rounding in the tight space between the flywheel and the block. You get two kits on this page and they are not interchangeable. The 208-2801 covers D-series SOHC engines (D15 and D16) with 6 bolts at 0.780 inch underhead length. The 208-2802 covers B-series DOHC engines (B16, B17, B18, B20) with 8 bolts at 0.890 inch underhead length. Both share the M12 x 1.0 thread and 19mm 12-point socket size. Torque them with the included ARP lubricant and follow the instruction sheet in the box, since ARP's torque figures assume their lube, not motor oil.

Specs

Available Options

Fitment

Pick your kit by engine family, not by chassis. A B16 or B18 swapped EG or EK needs the B-Series kit (208-2802) even though the car left the factory with a D-series. Swapped cars are covered as long as the engine matches.

What to Know Before You Buy

Order by what's in the engine bay today. The single most common mistake on this part is a swapped car ordering by chassis: an EG hatch with a B16A2 needs the 8-bolt 208-2802, not the D-series kit. If you're doing a clutch job anyway, this is the time to replace the bolts rather than reusing hardware that has been torqued and heat cycled for decades. These install with the flywheel, so there's no extra labor, just the correct torque sequence with ARP's lube. Grab a crank seal and new pressure plate bolts while you're in there and you won't be back in that bellhousing for a long time.