Rywire K Series Budget Tucked Harness Version 2

Rywire Tucked Version 2 Engine Harness - K Swaps

If you’re trying to buy a K-Series wire tuck harness that works cleanly on a bunch of different K-swapped cars, this Rywire K-Series harness Version 2 is the one to look at. Version 2 was built around a more universal chassis layout and more flexible harness routing. You can run this K-Series tuck engine harness across the center of the firewall like an OEM K-series harness, or swing it more to the right side compared to Version 1. That routing style works especially well if you’re running a Rywire harness for RHD cars, but it still fits and functions just fine on LHD shells too. Version 2 also gives you more room around aggressive headers, so you’re not melting loom every track day.

Quality connections, real-world layout

Every Rywire K-Series harness is warrantied and guaranteed to work, and you get actual install and troubleshooting help over the phone to back that up. Because of that, and like most wiring, this K-Series Budget harness purchase is non-refundable—so make sure this is the layout you want before you hit buy.

This Budget K-Series harness Version 2 (K2) wire tuck layout is nearly identical to the K2 Mil-spec Rywire K-Series harness. The big changes are the wire type, the single black wire color, and the expandable loom. All connectors and materials are brand new—no crusty reused plugs, ever. Rywire K-Series harnesses use pneumatic crimping for every connector so you get a proper OEM-style crimp every time, and each plug gets a white ID label to make install and diagnosis way less annoying.

High-interference circuits get proper shielding, routing, and grounding to keep noise out of your ECU. Every harness gets 100% tested pin-to-pin and resistance checked to confirm there are no sketchy drops or spikes in voltage. We run these exact looms on our own cars, because chasing wiring ghosts at the track sucks.

If you want to purchase a K-Series engine harness with no core, this Rywire harness no core needed setup is exactly that—no hacked OEM harness required. It follows an OEM-style configuration, so you’ll still need an interior ECU adapter for your specific chassis. If you’re piecing together a full car, pair it with a Rywire universal chassis harness and you’ve basically reset your wiring to “factory fresh” but K-swapped.

Fitment and engine style (read this)
This is a K20A/K20A2 style harness. If you’re using a different K engine (or mix-and-match sensors), you may need to swap some sensor connectors yourself. Rywire isn’t responsible for that, so read the connector list below before you buy Rywire K20 style harness options or pull the trigger on a Rywire K20A harness.

Compatibility note:
DO NOT use this with an 05–06 RSX. It does not work with the 05–06 RSX chassis, no matter how much you want it to.

Harness connector list (SKU: RYW-BASE-CH):

• VTEC solenoid
• VTC
• Oil pressure sending unit
• Crank sensor (02–04 K20 style)
• Coils 1–4
• Cam
• Top Dead Center sensor (TDC)
• Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) (02–04 K20 style)
• Knock Sensor (KS) (02–04 K20 style)
• Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
• Alternator (02–04 K20 style)
• Manifold Air Pressure (MAP)
• Throttle Position Sensor
• Idle control motor
• Electronic speed sensor (02–04 differential-driven VSS)
• Injectors 1–4
• H2O temp sending unit (for gauge cluster)
• Reverse lights
• Reverse lockout solenoid
• Starter signal
• ECU plugs A and B
• Power distribution cap
• Ground
• 2 extra wires

If you’re ready to buy Rywire K-Series harness Version 2 for your swap—LHD or RHD—this is the clean, tucked layout that still behaves like OEM when you need to diagnose it later. You can buy Rywire K-Series harness setups here with no core and know exactly what you’re getting.