Innovative Mounts Civic/Integra B-Series Cable Mounts

Innovative Mounts Civic/Integra B-Series Cable Mounts

You bought a cable B-series transmission because it shifts better, or because the hydro setup in your DC2 gave up and a cable box was what showed up cheap. Either way the stock mount locations no longer line up, and that is exactly what this kit solves. These are Innovative Mounts B-series motor mounts for an EG, EH or EJ Civic or a DC Integra that started life hydraulic and is going to a manual cable transmission.

What It Is and Why It Works

Part number 40150 is a conversion kit, not a replacement kit, and the distinction is the whole reason this page exists. Innovative builds it for the stock hydraulic 1992-1995 Honda Civic (EG, EH, EJ), 1993-1997 del Sol, and 1994-2001 Acura Integra (DC) chassis when you are installing a manual B-series engine with a cable transmission. If your car and your transmission are both already hydraulic and you just want fresh mounts, this is the wrong part and Innovative's manual hydro replacement kit (19550) is what you actually want.

The mounts themselves are steel housings with polyurethane bushings. Innovative deletes the fluid-filled damper cans Honda used from the factory, which is why a B16A2, B18C1 or B20 stops rocking under load. Wheel hop settles, the axle angles stay closer to where they were designed to sit, and the lag between throttle and thrust that comes from the engine physically moving before the car does goes away. On a swapped EG especially, that shows up as a car that finally hooks in second instead of chattering.

Polyurethane is stiffer than the rubber and hydraulic fluid it replaces, so it passes MORE engine noise and vibration into the chassis, not less. That is not a defect, that is the part doing its job. Expect a real increase at idle and through the 1000 to 2000 rpm range. Owners across these platforms consistently report the buzz softens after a few hundred miles as the bushings break in, and consistently report it never goes back to factory quiet. Higher durometer means more of it, every time.

Innovative rates the bushings by power. 75A black covers 250 to 400 horsepower and is the one to run if the car still sees street miles. 85A grey covers 400 to 500 horsepower and is meaningfully harsher. 95A red is for 500 plus horsepower and belongs in a car you drive to the track on a trailer. A 60A red option exists in Innovative's catalog for builds under 250 horsepower.

Specs

Available Options

Fitment

Manual transmission cars only. The engine must run the three bolt driver side timing belt post mount. Innovative sells that bracket separately as B50150 and states you need it to use the engine mount from this kit. Automatic cars use a different Innovative kit entirely.

What to Know Before You Buy

Count the bolts on the driver side block bracket before you order anything. This kit needs the three bolt post mount. If your block has the two bolt bracket, you either buy the B50150 three bolt billet post mount or you buy a different kit. That bracket is the single most common surprise on this part number, and Innovative calls it out on their own page rather than burying it.

The second thing people get wrong is the direction of the conversion. This kit is for a chassis that was hydraulic going to a cable transmission. If you are going the other way, cable chassis to a hydraulic transmission, you want a cable to hydro kit with an actuator instead. And if nothing about your setup is changing and you just want fresh mounts under a hydro B18, buy the replacement kit, not this one. Buying a conversion kit for a straight refresh is the most expensive way to end up with mounts that do not line up.

Mounts are only part of a hydro to cable job. You still need the correct cable transmission, a clutch cable, and shift linkage that matches. None of that is in this box. Plan the whole conversion before the engine comes out, not after.

On install, start every mount loose, set the car down so the engine rests on its own weight, then torque. A firm urethane mount torqued while the engine hangs from a load leveler locks in a preload you will feel as a permanent vibration at cruise. Once these are bolted down and the bolt heads leave impressions on the coating, they cannot be returned, so verify fitment on the car first.

If the EG or DC2 in question still gets driven on the street, take the 75A. Owners who jump straight to 95A on a daily almost always regret it, and the extra stiffness does nothing for a car that is not making 500 horsepower. While the engine bay is open, this is also the moment to sort the axles, the shift linkage bushings and the rear trans bracket, because everything the soft mounts were hiding is about to become obvious.