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Hybrid Racing K20A/A2/A3/Z1 Trans K Swap Shifter Cables
Hybrid Racing K20A/A2/A3/Z1 Trans K Swap Shifter Cables
Hybrid Racing K20A/A2/A3/Z1 Trans K Swap Shifter Cables
Hybrid Racing K20A/A2/A3/Z1 Trans K Swap Shifter Cables
Hybrid Racing K20A/A2/A3/Z1 Trans K Swap Shifter Cables
Hybrid Racing K20A/A2/A3/Z1 Trans K Swap Shifter Cables
Hybrid Racing K20A/A2/A3/Z1 Trans K Swap Shifter Cables

Hybrid Racing K20A/A2/A3/Z1 Trans K Swap Shifter Cables

  • Specifically Made for K Swap EG, DC, EK Chassis

  • Anodized Aluminum End Links

  • Compatible with K20A/A2/A3/Z1 Transmissions

  • High Heat, Wire Reinforced Sleeve

$419.99

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PRODUCT DETAILS

Hybrid Racing Performance Shifter Cables - K-Swap (K20A / A2 / A3 / Z1)

If your shifter has gone vague, if you're catching the gate wrong under hard shifts, or if a cable has already let go on you, the cables are the problem. Factory shifter cables use plastic swivel support tubes and thinner cable cores, and neither holds up to a K-series being shifted the way people shift them. These are our performance replacements: 30% thicker cable core, spherical bearings, solid rod ends, and stainless where the factory used plastic.

What Worn Cables Feel Like

Worth knowing what you're diagnosing, because cable wear gets blamed on everything else first.

The usual progression starts with a shifter that feels vague in the gate, where you're not certain you've found the gear until you let the clutch out. Then comes missed shifts under load, particularly on fast 2-3 pulls where the cable flexes instead of moving the selector. Eventually you get a gear you can't reach at all, or a cable that fails outright.

People chase this with shift knobs, bushings, and short shifters, get a small improvement each time, and still have a shifter that isn't right. That's because the flex is in the cable itself, and no amount of hardware at either end fixes a cable that's stretching under load.

Built For Swapped Chassis, Not Adapted From The RSX

This matters, and it's why these exist.

For years the answer for a K-swap was RSX cables, because that's what was available. The problem is they're too long for an EG, EK, or DC. Extra length has to go somewhere, and it goes into bends and slack that add internal friction, wear the cable faster, and blur the connection between your hand and the transmission.

These are built at the correct length for swapped chassis. Shorter, more direct, and a straighter run from shifter to selector. Less internal resistance means smoother shifts, fewer bends means better reliability, and there's less cable to weigh anything down.

If you're running RSX cables in a swap, that's what's left of the old way of doing it. These are the right part for the car.

What Makes These Different From Factory

Several things, and they compound.

The 30% thicker cable core is the big one. A thicker core flexes less under load, which means more of your shifter input reaches the transmission instead of getting absorbed on the way. That's the firmer, tighter feel people notice immediately.

Spherical bearings and solid rod ends replace the compliance in the factory pivots. Every bit of slop at a pivot point is movement at your hand that doesn't move the selector.

Stainless steel swivel support tubes replace the factory plastic ones, which are a known failure point on OEM cables. That's often what people are actually dealing with when a cable fails rather than just wears.

All the rod ends and mounting bushings are CNC machined from 6061 aluminum, heat treated, anodized black, and laser etched. Everything is manufactured and assembled in the USA.

Works With Both Shifter Setups

These are made to work with our K-swap bolt-in shifters and our floor-mounted RSX shifter, and the routing differs between them.

With the K-swap shifter bolted in under the car, the cables route between the subframe and the floor. That's the straightforward path and it fits the EG, EK, and DC2 particularly well.

With the floor-mounted RSX shifter and plate, the cables should exit through the heater core hole in the firewall, or through a hole you make. Worth planning that before you start rather than deciding with the cables in your hands.

You'll Need Two More Clips

Read this before you order. Each set includes two shifter cables, two cotter pins, and two shifter cable spring clips.

A complete cable system requires four spring clips. So unless you've already got a spare pair, grab two more in the same order. It's a small part and an annoying thing to be short of halfway through.

Fitment

K-swap applications using the K20A, K20A2, K20A3, or K20Z1 transmission.

Correct length for EG and EK Civic and DC Integra chassis. Designed for use with Hybrid Racing K-swap bolt-in shifters and the floor-mounted RSX shifter.

Who Should Run These

This is for the K-swap builder who wants the shifter to feel connected rather than approximate, and for anyone who's already replaced everything else and still has a vague gate. Shifting is the thing you do most in a manual car, and cables are the part of that chain most people never think about until they fail. Sort your clips, route them properly, and get a shifter that does what your hand tells it.

Fits: K-swap applications with the K20A, K20A2, K20A3, or K20Z1 transmission, sized correctly for EG/EK Civic and DC Integra. Construction: 30% thicker cable core, spherical bearings, solid rod ends, stainless steel push rods and swivel support tubes, CNC machined 6061 aluminum rod ends and bushings. Includes: two cables, two cotter pins, two spring clips. Note: a complete system requires four spring clips, order two additional. Made in the USA.

Fitment

  • 1992-2000 Honda Civic with a K-Series engine & K20A/A2/A3/Z1 transmission
    1994-2001 Acura Integra with a K-Series engine & K20A/A2/A3/Z1 transmission

    Does not fit the EF Civic! 
    Does not work with K20Z3 or K24 transmissions! 


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