{"title":"Synchrotech Transmissions","description":null,"products":[{"product_id":"synchrotech-transmissions-synchro-master-rebuild-kit-honda-acura-k-series","title":"Synchrotech K Series Transmission Synchro Master Rebuild Kit","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eComplete Synchro Rebuild Kit \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAvailable in Carbon or Brass \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFitments for Most K20 and K24 Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIncludes Sleeves, Springs, Synchros, Bearings, and Seals \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech K-Series Synchro Master Rebuild Kit - Carbon or Brass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf your K-series grinds going into a gear, you've probably already made peace with it. You slow the shift down, you baby third, you double clutch without thinking about it. That's a worn synchro, and it doesn't get better on its own. This Synchrotech master kit is the complete fix, every synchro your transmission uses plus the springs, bearings, sleeves, and seals to do the job properly while it's apart. It's available in brass for a factory-quality rebuild or Synchrotech carbon for a genuine performance upgrade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat A Synchro Actually Does\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth understanding before you spend money, because it explains why the fix is what it is. Your transmission uses a synchromesh system, and the synchro is the friction ring at the heart of it. When you shift, the gear you're selecting is spinning at a different speed than the shaft it needs to lock onto. The synchro grabs that gear and drags it to matching speed in a fraction of a second, so the teeth mesh cleanly instead of colliding. When that friction surface wears down, the synchromesh can't do its job fast enough anymore, and the teeth clash. That's the grind you hear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow To Tell Yours Are Bad\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA few reliable signs, and one genuinely useful test.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt grinds going into one specific gear.\u003c\/strong\u003e This is the classic. If everything shifts clean except third, that's third gear's synchro. Isolated grinding almost always means an isolated synchro rather than a transmission-wide problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDownshifts are worse than upshifts.\u003c\/strong\u003e This is the test worth running. On an upshift, engine revs are falling naturally and the synchro gets help. On a downshift, the synchro has to drag the clutch disc and input shaft up to a much higher speed all by itself. So if your car upshifts quietly but grinds, fights, or flat refuses on a normal downshift, your synchros are the problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt's getting worse.\u003c\/strong\u003e Synchro wear starts as slight notchiness or a light click through the shifter and progresses to metal-on-metal grinding you feel in your palm. If it's worse this month than it was last month, that's the pattern.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eYou're forcing gears or it pops out.\u003c\/strong\u003e Having to push harder than you used to, or a gear that won't stay in, both point the same direction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne honest note: grinding can also come from a clutch that isn't fully disengaging or from low or wrong transmission fluid. Rule those out first, they're a lot cheaper to fix than pulling the transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCarbon Or Brass? Here's How To Choose\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth fix a grinding transmission. They suit different cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBrass\u003c\/strong\u003e is the OEM-style material and the right call for most street cars. It restores factory shift feel, it's proven over decades, and it costs less. If you're refreshing a daily driver or a mostly stock car, start here and don't overthink it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCarbon\u003c\/strong\u003e is Synchrotech's Pro Series, and it's a genuinely different thing from OEM brass or the spray-coated and woven-fabric carbon synchros out there. These use a full carbon composite lining built on carbon-carbon technology originally developed for aerospace, and the material acts as a braking element during engagement. It stops the gear faster, which means less grind on high-rpm shifts and less wear on your sleeves and engagement teeth over time. If you're shifting hard, running track days, drag racing, or making real power, this is the one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe'll be straight about one thing: Synchrotech carbon shifts better, but don't buy it expecting dramatically longer life than brass. You're paying for how it engages, not for extra mileage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCheck Your Hubs And Sleeves Before You Order\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most important advice on this page, and the thing most listings skip. Synchros work against your hubs and sleeves, and if those are worn, new synchros of any material won't fix your shifting. New carbon on chewed-up hubs is no better than new brass on chewed-up hubs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo open the transmission and inspect before you buy. Look at the engagement teeth, the sleeves, and the hubs. If they're sharp and clean, a synchro kit will transform the shift. If they're rounded off or damaged, budget for those parts too, because otherwise you'll do all this work and be disappointed. Synchrotech makes hardened steel sleeves and hubs if you need them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorth Doing Once\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGetting into a K-series transmission is most of the work on this job, so the parts are the smaller part of the equation. That's the argument for a master kit over replacing a single synchro: you're already in there, the labor is spent either way, and a one-gear fix means doing it all again when the next one goes. Whether you're paying a shop or spending your own weekend, do it once and do it completely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat's In The Master Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSynchros for every gear your transmission uses\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSynchro springs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eBearings\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSleeves\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSeals\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe kit matches your transmission, so a 6-speed application gets six gears' worth and a 5-speed gets five plus reverse. Everything that wears in there is covered, which is the whole point of a master kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePick The Right Variant, This Is The Critical Part\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRead this carefully, because K-series transmissions use different synchro designs and the kits are not interchangeable. The difference is cone count, meaning how many friction surfaces each synchro uses. More cones means more friction area and more synchronizing capacity, and Honda used different designs across the lineup and even across model years of the same car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's why the RSX Type-S is split into two different kits by year. An 02-04 and an 05-06 are not the same inside. Find your car below:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eVariant\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eDual Cone\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2002-2004 Acura RSX Type-S\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eDual Cone\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eHonda Civic Type R (EP3R) and Acura Integra Type R (DC5R)\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSingle Cone\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2006-2015 Honda Civic Si, 2005-2006 Acura RSX and RSX Type-S, 2004-2008 Acura TSX, 2007-2011 Honda Civic Type R (FD2R \/ FN2R)\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eAPG6\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eTriple Cone 1st\/2nd\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V, 2003-2008 Honda Element\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're not certain which design your transmission uses, check the transmission code on the case before ordering. Getting this wrong means parts that won't work in a job that takes real effort to get into.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run This Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for anyone whose K-series has started grinding and who's ready to fix it properly rather than driving around it. Refreshing a high-mileage transmission, building a gearbox during a swap, or upgrading a car that gets shifted hard, this is the complete synchro package. Inspect your hubs and sleeves, pick brass or carbon based on how you actually drive, match your variant carefully, and get your shifts back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e K20 and K24 transmissions, see the variant table above. \u003cstrong\u003eMaterials:\u003c\/strong\u003e brass (OEM-style) or Synchrotech Pro Series carbon composite. \u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e synchros, springs, bearings, sleeves, and seals. \u003cstrong\u003eCoverage:\u003c\/strong\u003e all forward gears, plus reverse on 5-speed applications. \u003cstrong\u003eImportant:\u003c\/strong\u003e select the variant matching your exact model, year, and synchro cone design.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S\u003cbr\u003e2001-2005 Honda Integra Type R (DC5R)\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003cbr\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003cbr\u003e2006-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e2001-2005 Honda Civic Type R (EP3R)\u003cbr\u003e2007-2011 Honda Civic Type R (FD2R\/FN2R)\u003cbr\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003cbr\u003e2003-2008 Honda Element\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"02-04 RSX Type S (Dual Cone) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46326093283362,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN118","price":808.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"02-04 RSX Type S (Dual Cone) \/ Brass","offer_id":46326093316130,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN118B","price":750.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"02-04 EP3\/DC5 Type R (Dual Cone) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46326093348898,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN118A","price":808.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"02-04 EP3\/DC5 Type R (Dual Cone) \/ Brass","offer_id":46326093381666,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN118AB","price":750.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"06-15 Civic Si\/05-06 RSX\/TSX (Single Cone) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46326093414434,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN117","price":808.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"06-15 Civic Si\/05-06 RSX\/TSX (Single Cone) \/ Brass","offer_id":46326093447202,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN117B","price":750.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"03-07 Accord (APG6) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46326093479970,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN114","price":808.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"03-07 Accord (APG6) \/ Brass","offer_id":46326093512738,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN114B","price":750.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"02-06 CR-V\/03-08 Element (Triple Cone 1st\/2nd) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46326093545506,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN114A","price":808.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"02-06 CR-V\/03-08 Element (Triple Cone 1st\/2nd) \/ Brass","offer_id":46326093578274,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN114AB","price":750.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/SYN-MK-SYN118_g7ne.jpg?v=1786129810"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-transmissions-k20-k24-synchro-sleeve-02-15-civic-si-rsx-tsx","title":"Synchrotech K Series Synchro Sleeve for Civic Si\/RSX\/TSX","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSynchro Sleeves for K20A, K20Z, K24A, and K24Z Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSold Individually for Easy Maintenance \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with EP3, DC5, 8th and 9th Gen Civic Si, and TSX \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHardened Steel Construction \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech Synchro Sleeves - K-Series (RSX, TSX \u0026amp; Civic Si)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf your transmission pops out of gear, this is the part you need. Not the synchros, the sleeve. It's a distinction a lot of people miss, and it means the difference between fixing your problem and pulling the transmission apart twice. These are Synchrotech's replacement synchro sleeves for K-series transmissions, sold individually so you can replace just the one that's worn instead of buying a full master kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eGrinding Means Synchros. Popping Out Means Sleeves.\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the most useful thing on this page, so start here. Those two symptoms point at two different parts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA \u003cstrong\u003egrind\u003c\/strong\u003e going into gear means a synchro isn't matching speeds fast enough. That's a synchro problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA gear that \u003cstrong\u003epops out\u003c\/strong\u003e, especially under acceleration or deceleration, means the sleeve isn't holding. That's this part. Here's why it happens: the teeth on the sleeve and the engagement teeth on the gear are cut with a slight angle, called a reverse taper or undercut. That geometry is doing something clever, because under load it actually pulls the sleeve tighter onto the gear and locks it there. Once that taper wears round, the sleeve loses its grip and torque pushes it right back out. You get a shifter that snaps to neutral on its own while the engine revs out, which is both maddening and genuinely unsafe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf your car does both, grinds going in and won't stay in, you likely need synchros and sleeves for that gear pair.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat second one is what brings people to this page. The teeth on the sleeve and the engagement teeth on the gear are cut with a slight angle called a reverse taper, and under load that geometry actually pulls the sleeve tighter onto the gear to lock it in. Once the taper wears round, the sleeve loses its grip and torque pushes it right back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat A Sleeve Actually Does\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth understanding, because it explains why it wears. All the forward gears in your transmission spin constantly on the shaft, even in neutral. When you shift, you're not moving a gear, you're sliding a splined sleeve sideways onto the gear you selected. The sleeve is keyed to the hub and the hub is keyed to the shaft, so once the sleeve locks onto the gear, drive goes through. It's the part doing the actual engaging every single time you shift, which is exactly why it's a wear item on a hard-driven car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eThree Sleeves Per Transmission\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEach sleeve handles a pair of gears, so a complete transmission uses three of them: one for 1st and 2nd, one for 3rd and 4th, and one for 5th and 6th. They're sold individually here on purpose, since sleeves rarely wear evenly. If 3rd is the gear popping out, you buy the 3\/4 sleeve and leave the others alone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eInspect Before You Order\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSince you're already in there, look at the whole picture rather than just the sleeve. Check the engagement teeth on the gear itself, because a worn sleeve and worn gear teeth usually happen together, and a new sleeve on rounded-off gear teeth will still pop out. Check your shift fork too. Honda gives service limits for fork-to-sleeve clearance, and a bent or worn fork won't push the sleeve far enough to fully engage, which produces the same symptom. Replacing a sleeve while ignoring a worn fork means doing this again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow To Stop Wearing Them Out\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne habit worth breaking, because it's the main thing that kills sleeves and forks. Don't rest your hand on the shifter while you're driving, and don't hold pressure on the lever after a gear is engaged. That sleeve is spinning constantly, and any pressure you put on the shifter presses the fork fingers against it the whole time. Honda's clearance spec between the fork and sleeve is measured in fractions of a millimeter, so it doesn't take much to wear past it. Shift, let go, and your next set will last a lot longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These K-Series Transmissions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eMake\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eModel\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eAcura\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eRSX\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2002-2006\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eAcura\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eTSX\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2004-2008\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eHonda\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eCivic Si (EP3)\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2002-2005\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eHonda\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eCivic Si\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2006-2011\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eHonda\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eCivic Si\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2012-2015\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSelect the sleeve that matches the gear pair you're replacing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Grab A Sleeve\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for anyone with a gear that won't stay engaged, or a builder going through a transmission who's found a sleeve past its service limit. Buying individually means you fix what's actually worn instead of spending master-kit money on parts that are still good. If you're finding wear everywhere, the master rebuild kit is the better value, but for a single bad gear pair, this is the part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2002-2006 Acura RSX, 2004-2008 Acura TSX, 2002-2005 Honda Civic Si (EP3), 2006-2011 Honda Civic Si, and 2012-2015 Honda Civic Si. \u003cstrong\u003eSold:\u003c\/strong\u003e individually. \u003cstrong\u003eCoverage:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1st\/2nd, 3rd\/4th, and 5th\/6th, three sleeves total per transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2013-2015 Acura ILX\u003cbr\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S\/Type R\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003cbr\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003cbr\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si\/Type R\u003cbr\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\/Type R\u003cbr\u003e2012-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"1st\/2nd","offer_id":46326397141026,"sku":"SYN-SO-K20-1","price":173.2,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"3rd\/4th","offer_id":46326397173794,"sku":"SYN-SO-K20-3","price":115.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"5th\/6th","offer_id":46326397206562,"sku":"SYN-SO-K20-5","price":115.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/synchrotech-k-series-synchro-s_11vr.jpg?v=1787257200"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-transmissions-k-series-gear-set-hub","title":"Synchrotech Transmissions K Series Gear Set Hub","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHubs for Each Gear Set, 1st-2nd, 3rd-4th, and 5th-6th \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFits Most K Series Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with RSX, TSX, 8th and 9th Gen Civic Si, and Accord \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIdeal for Transmission and Synchro Rebuilds \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech Synchro Hubs - K20 \u0026amp; K24 (RSX, TSX, Civic Si \u0026amp; More)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe hub is the foundation of the whole synchro assembly, and it's the part people skip. It's splined directly to the transmission shaft and everything else rides on it, so when the hub is worn, nothing you bolt around it will fix your shifting. If you've replaced synchros and the transmission still feels wrong, this is very often why. These are Synchrotech's replacement hubs for K-series transmissions, sold individually per gear set.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhich Part Do You Actually Need?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThree parts, three different symptoms. Match yours before you spend money.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eSymptom\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eLikely Part\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGrinds going into gear\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSynchro\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePops out of gear under load\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSleeve\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBinds, feels notchy, or blocks out mid-shift\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHub\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat third one is what brings people to this page. A worn hub means the sleeve can't slide cleanly along its splines anymore, so it binds or cocks slightly instead of moving straight. What you feel is a shifter that moves normally right up to a point and then wants serious effort to finish the shift, or a gear that feels blocked even with the clutch all the way down. It's different from a grind and different from a pop-out, and it's the symptom most likely to get misdiagnosed as something else.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat The Hub Does\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSimple job, critical role. The hub is splined to the transmission shaft, so it always spins with the shaft. The sleeve rides on the outside of the hub on those same splines, sliding back and forth to lock in whichever gear you selected, and the synchro springs and keys sit in the hub too. So the hub is what everything else is mounted to and referenced from. If those splines are worn, chewed, or wobbling, every part riding on them is compromised no matter how new it is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy This Is The Part That Makes Or Breaks A Rebuild\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHere's the advice worth more than anything else on this page. Plenty of people replace their synchros, close the transmission up, and find the shift is barely better than when they started. The reason is almost always worn hubs and sleeves. New carbon synchros on a worn hub are no better than new brass on a worn hub, because the problem was never the friction surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo when you have the transmission apart, inspect the hub splines carefully. They should engage smoothly with no binding and no play. If the sleeve wobbles on the hub or drags as you slide it by hand, replace the hub. Doing the synchros and skipping a worn hub is how a rebuild disappoints you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eSold Per Gear Set\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEach hub serves a pair of gears, so a transmission uses three: one for 1st and 2nd, one for 3rd and 4th, and one for 5th and 6th. They're sold individually because wear is rarely even. The 1\/2 hub usually takes the worst of it, since first and second see the most aggressive engagement and the most launches. If that's the only one past spec, replace it and leave the others alone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These K-Series Transmissions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eMake\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eModel\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eYears\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAcura\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRSX Type-S \/ Type R\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2002-2006\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAcura\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTSX\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2004-2008\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAcura\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eILX\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2013-2015\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHonda\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eCivic Si \/ Type R\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2002-2005\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHonda\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eCivic Si \/ Type R\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2006-2011\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHonda\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eCivic Si\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2012-2015\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHonda\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAccord\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2003-2007\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSelect the hub matching the gear pair you're replacing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eDo It Once\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGetting into a K-series transmission is the expensive part of this job, whether you're paying a shop or spending your own weekend. The parts are the cheap half. So while you're in there, inspect everything, the hubs, the sleeves, the synchros, and the engagement teeth on the gears, and replace what's past spec rather than what you assumed was bad. That's how you close it up once and get the shift you were after.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Grab A Hub\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for anyone whose shifter binds or blocks out going into a particular gear, and for the builder going through a transmission who's found a hub with worn or sloppy splines. It's also for the person who already did synchros and didn't get the result they wanted. Fix the foundation and everything riding on it works the way it should.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e K20 and K24 transmissions in the 2002-2006 Acura RSX Type-S and Type R, 2004-2008 Acura TSX, 2013-2015 Acura ILX, 2002-2005 Honda Civic Si and Type R, 2006-2011 Honda Civic Si and Type R, 2012-2015 Honda Civic Si, and 2003-2007 Honda Accord. \u003cstrong\u003eSold:\u003c\/strong\u003e individually, per gear set. \u003cstrong\u003eCoverage:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1st\/2nd, 3rd\/4th, and 5th\/6th, three hubs total per transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2013-2015 Acura ILX\u003cbr\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S\/Type R\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003cbr\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003cbr\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si\/Type R\u003cbr\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\/Type R\u003cbr\u003e2012-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"1st\/2nd","offer_id":46326780854306,"sku":"SYN-SH-K20-1","price":86.63,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"3rd\/4th","offer_id":46326780887074,"sku":"SYN-SH-K20-3","price":57.75,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"5th\/6th","offer_id":46326780919842,"sku":"SYN-SH-K20-5","price":57.75,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/synchrotech-transmissions-k-se_x8rm.jpg?v=1787175995"},{"product_id":"syncherotech-l15b-k-series-synchro-spring-set","title":"Synchrotech Synchro Spring Set for L15B\/K Series","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFull 6 Speed Set of Springs \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFits K20A, K20Z, K24A, K24Z, and L15B Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHelps Retain Synchro in Correct Orientation \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWear Item in Abused Transmissions  \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech Synchro Spring Set (SP117) - K-Series \u0026amp; L15B, 1-6\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSprings are the part nobody thinks about and everybody should. They're what pushes the blocker ring against the cone to start the synchronizing action every time you shift, and when they weaken, the synchro can't engage the cone firmly enough to do its job. You get a grind that feels exactly like a worn synchro even when the synchro itself still has plenty of material left. This is the complete 1-6 spring set for K-series and L15B 6-speed transmissions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhich Part Do You Actually Need?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThree parts, three different symptoms. Match yours before you spend money.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eSymptom\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eLikely Part\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGrinds going into gear\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"#https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/synchrotech-transmissions-synchro-master-rebuild-kit-honda-acura-k-series?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=6972c23f1\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eSynchro\u003c\/a\u003e (and springs)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePops out of gear under load\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003ca href=\"#https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/synchrotech-transmissions-k20-k24-synchro-sleeve-02-15-civic-si-rsx-tsx?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=d2931c079\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eSleeve\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBinds, feels notchy, or blocks out mid-shift\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHub\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSprings live in that first row alongside the synchros, which is exactly why they're worth replacing together. Tired springs produce the same grind a worn synchro does, so putting new synchros in behind old springs means you've only fixed half the problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAlways Replace Springs With Synchros\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the practical advice worth the most on this page. If you've got the transmission open to do synchros, put fresh springs in at the same time. They've been cycling and heating alongside everything else for the same number of years and the same number of shifts, so they're tired even if they look fine. Springs are the cheapest part in the whole assembly and among the most annoying to have to go back in for. Reusing them behind a fresh set of carbon or brass synchros is how a rebuild ends up feeling only slightly better than it did before.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eComplete 1 Through 6\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the full set, covering every gear position from 1st through 6th, so you're not sourcing springs individually or coming up short mid-assembly. Open the box, and everything you need for the whole transmission is there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003e6-Speed Transmissions Only\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCheck this before you order. This set is for \u003cstrong\u003e6-speed transmissions\u003c\/strong\u003e. Plenty of cars in this era came with 5-speeds, so confirm what you've got before buying. If your transmission is a 5-speed, this isn't the right set.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis spring set fits 2002-2020 Honda and Acura 6-speed transmissions running K20, K24, or L15B engines:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eModel\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eNotes\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAcura RSX\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eK20 6-speed\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAcura TSX\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eK24 6-speed\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAcura Integra Type R (ITR)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDC5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHonda Civic Type R\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEP3, FN2, FD2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHonda Civic Si\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eK20 \/ K24 \/ L15B\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHonda Civic EX-T\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eL15B\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat L15B coverage is worth noting, since it brings the 10th gen Civic and Si into the same set as the older K-series cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Grab This Set\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for anyone with the transmission apart doing synchro work, and for the builder who understands that a rebuild is only as good as its weakest reused part. Springs are inexpensive, they're a known wear item, and they directly affect whether your new synchros actually engage the way they should. If you're in there, put them in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2002-2020 Honda and Acura 6-speed transmissions, K20, K24, and L15B, including the RSX, TSX, Integra Type R, Civic Type R (EP3 \/ FN2 \/ FD2), Civic Si, and Civic EX-T. \u003cstrong\u003ePart number:\u003c\/strong\u003e SP117. \u003cstrong\u003eCoverage:\u003c\/strong\u003e complete 1-6 set. \u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e 6-speed transmissions only.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type S\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003cbr\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003cbr\u003e2002-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e2017-2020 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003cbr\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":46384890052642,"sku":"SYN-SP117","price":63.53,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/SYN-SP117_qyih.jpg?v=1787253187"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-bearing-seal-synchro-rebuild-kit-k-series","title":"Synchrotech Bearing \u0026 Seal Synchro Rebuild Kit for K Series","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAvailable in Carbon or Brass \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFitments for Wide Variety of K Series \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRebuild for Synchros, Springs, Seals, and Bearings, No Sleeves \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMatch Your Cone Type Before Ordering \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech Bearing \u0026amp; Seal Synchro Rebuild Kit - Carbon or Brass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf your transmission grinds but everything still stays in gear, this is the kit you want. It covers the parts that wear out and cause bad shifts, synchros, springs, bearings, and seals, without the sleeves you're paying for in a master kit and may not need. Available in brass for a factory-quality rebuild or Synchrotech carbon for a real performance upgrade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eDo You Need Sleeves? Start Here.\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the only meaningful difference between this kit and our master kit, so figure it out before you order. Three parts, three symptoms:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eSymptom\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eLikely Part\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGrinds going into gear\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSynchro and springs\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePops out of gear under load\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/synchrotech-transmissions-k20-k24-synchro-sleeve-02-15-civic-si-rsx-tsx?_pos=2\u0026amp;_psq=syn-so-\u0026amp;_psid=193793551\u0026amp;_ss=e\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eSleeve\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBinds, feels notchy, or blocks out mid-shift\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/synchrotech-transmissions-k-series-gear-set-hub?_pos=1\u0026amp;_psq=synchrotech+hub\u0026amp;_psid=1c62bcb04\u0026amp;_ss=e\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eHub\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf your only complaint is grinding, this kit handles it. If a gear also kicks itself back out under throttle, that's a sleeve problem and you want the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/synchrotech-transmissions-synchro-master-rebuild-kit-honda-acura-k-series?_pos=3\u0026amp;_psq=syn-so-\u0026amp;_psid=193793551\u0026amp;_ss=e\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003emaster rebuild kit\u003c\/a\u003e instead, which includes them. And if you find worn hubs while you're in there, order those separately, because no synchro kit fixes a worn hub.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat A Synchro Actually Does\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth understanding, because it explains why the fix is what it is. Your transmission uses a synchromesh system, and the synchro is the friction ring at the heart of it. When you shift, the gear you're selecting spins at a different speed than the shaft it needs to lock onto. The synchro grabs that gear and drags it to matching speed in a fraction of a second so the teeth mesh cleanly instead of colliding. When that friction surface wears down, the synchromesh can't keep up, and the teeth clash. That's your grind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow To Tell Yours Are Worn\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA few reliable signs, and one test worth running.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt grinds into one specific gear.\u003c\/strong\u003e If everything shifts clean except third, that's third's synchro. Isolated grinding almost always means an isolated problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDownshifts are worse than upshifts.\u003c\/strong\u003e This is the useful one. On an upshift, revs are falling naturally and the synchro gets help. On a downshift it has to drag the clutch disc and input shaft up to speed by itself. So if the car upshifts quietly but grinds or refuses on a normal downshift, your synchros are done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt's getting worse over time.\u003c\/strong\u003e Wear starts as slight notchiness and progresses to metal-on-metal grinding you feel in your hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne honest note: grinding can also come from a clutch that isn't fully disengaging or from low or wrong fluid. Rule those out first, they're far cheaper to fix.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCarbon Or Brass?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth fix a grinding transmission. They suit different cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBrass\u003c\/strong\u003e is the OEM-style material and the right pick for most street cars. It restores factory shift feel, it's proven, and it costs less. Refreshing a daily driver, start here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCarbon\u003c\/strong\u003e is Synchrotech's Pro Series, using a full carbon composite lining built on carbon-carbon technology originally developed for aerospace. The material acts as a braking element during engagement, stopping the gear faster, which means less grind on high-rpm shifts and less wear on your sleeves and engagement teeth. If you shift hard, run track days, drag race, or make real power, this is the one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStraight talk on one point: carbon shifts better, but don't buy it expecting dramatically longer life than brass. You're paying for how it engages.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCheck Your Hubs And Sleeves Anyway\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEven though this kit doesn't include sleeves, inspect them while the transmission is open. Synchros work against your hubs and sleeves, and if those surfaces are worn, new synchros of any material won't fix your shifting. New carbon on a chewed-up hub is no better than new brass on a chewed-up hub.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eLook at the engagement teeth, the sleeves, and the hubs before you close it up. Sharp and clean means this kit will transform the shift. Rounded off means you need those parts too, and it's far better to find out now than after everything's back together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat's In The Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSynchros for every gear\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSynchro springs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eBearings\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSeals\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNo sleeves, which is what separates this from the master kit. If you need those, the master kit is the better buy than adding them separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePick The Right Variant\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRead carefully, because K-series transmissions use different synchro designs and the kits aren't interchangeable. The difference is cone count, meaning how many friction surfaces each synchro uses, and Honda varied it across the lineup and even across model years of the same car. That's why the RSX appears in more than one row.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eVariant\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDual Cone\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2002-2004 Acura RSX Type-S\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDual Cone\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHonda Civic Type R (EP3R) and Acura Integra Type R (DC5R)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSingle Cone\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2006-2015 Honda Civic Si, 2005-2006 Acura RSX and RSX Type-S, 2004-2008 Acura TSX, 2007-2011 Honda Civic Type R (FD2R \/ FN2R)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSingle Cone\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si and 2002-2006 Acura RSX, 5-speed transmissions\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAPG6\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTriple Cone 1st\/2nd\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V, 2003-2008 Honda Element\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're not certain which design your transmission uses, check the code on the case before ordering. Getting this wrong means parts that won't work in a job that takes real effort to get into.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorth Doing Once\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGetting into a K-series transmission is the expensive part of this job, whether you're paying a shop or spending your own weekend. The parts are the cheap half. So inspect everything while it's open and replace what's actually past spec rather than what you assumed was bad. That's how you close it up once and get the shift you were after.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run This Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for anyone whose transmission grinds but still holds every gear, and for the builder refreshing a gearbox who's already confirmed the sleeves are good. You get everything that actually wears without paying for parts you don't need. Inspect your hubs and sleeves, pick brass or carbon based on how you drive, match your variant carefully, and get your shifts back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e K20, K24, and L15B transmissions, see the variant table above. \u003cstrong\u003eMaterials:\u003c\/strong\u003e brass (OEM-style) or Synchrotech Pro Series carbon composite. \u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e synchros, springs, bearings, and seals. \u003cstrong\u003eDoes not include:\u003c\/strong\u003e sleeves, see our master rebuild kit if you need those. \u003cstrong\u003eImportant:\u003c\/strong\u003e select the variant matching your exact model, year, and synchro design.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type S\u003cbr\u003e2001-2005 Honda Integra Type R (DC5R)\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003cbr\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003cbr\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si\/Type R\u003cbr\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\/Type R\u003cbr\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003cbr\u003e2003-2008 Honda Element\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"02-04 RSX Type S (Dual Cone) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46386034966562,"sku":"SYN-BSK-SYN118","price":519.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"02-04 EP3\/DC5 Type R (Dual Cone) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46386034999330,"sku":"SYN-BSK-SYN118A","price":519.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"02-04 RSX Type S (Dual Cone) \/ Brass","offer_id":46386035032098,"sku":"SYN-BSK-SYN118B","price":461.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"02-04 EP3\/DC5 Type R (Dual Cone) \/ Brass","offer_id":46386035064866,"sku":"SYN-BSK-SYN118AB","price":461.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"06-15 Civic Si\/\/05-06 RSX\/TSX (Single Cone) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46386035097634,"sku":"SYN-BSK-SYN117","price":519.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"06-15 Civic Si\/\/05-06 RSX\/TSX (Single Cone) \/ Brass","offer_id":46386035130402,"sku":"SYN-BSK-SYN117B","price":461.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"02-06 RSX Base (Single Cone) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46386035163170,"sku":"SYN-BSK-SYN116","price":461.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"02-06 RSX Base (Single Cone) \/ Brass","offer_id":46386035195938,"sku":"SYN-BSK-SYN116B","price":404.2,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"02-05 Civic Si (Single Cone) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46386035228706,"sku":"SYN-BSK-SYN116A","price":461.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"02-05 Civic Si (Single Cone) \/ Brass","offer_id":46386035261474,"sku":"SYN-BSK-SYN116AB","price":404.2,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"03-07 Accord (APG6) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46386035294242,"sku":"SYN-BSK-SYN114","price":461.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"03-07 Accord (APG6) \/ Brass","offer_id":46386035327010,"sku":"SYN-BSK-SYN114B","price":404.2,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"02-06 CR-V\/03-08 Element (Triple Cone 1st\/2nd) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46386035359778,"sku":"SYN-BSK-SYN114A","price":461.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"02-06 CR-V\/03-08 Element (Triple Cone 1st\/2nd) \/ Brass","offer_id":46386035392546,"sku":"SYN-BSK-SYN114AB","price":404.2,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/synchrotech-bearing-seal-synch_2t2v.jpg?v=1786479957"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-replacement-k-series-synchro-set-carbon-brass","title":"Synchrotech Replacement K Series Synchro Set for Honda\/Acura","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSynchros Only, No Springs or Sleeves Included \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCarbon or Brass Materials Available \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFitments for Multiple K Series Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMatch Your Gear Range and Cone Style When Ordering \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech K-Series Synchro Set - Carbon or Brass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf your K-series grinds going into gear, the synchros are what's worn. This is the set that replaces them, and nothing else. No springs, no bearings, no sleeves, just the synchro rings in either brass or Synchrotech's carbon composite. If you've had the transmission open, inspected everything, and found the synchros are the problem, this is the part rather than a full kit you don't need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhich Part Do You Actually Need?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThree parts, three different symptoms. Match yours before you spend money.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eSymptom\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eLikely Part\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGrinds going into gear\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSynchro\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePops out of gear under load\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSleeve\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBinds, feels notchy, or blocks out mid-shift\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHub\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat first one is what brings people here. When a synchro's friction surface wears down, it can't drag the gear to matching speed fast enough before the sleeve arrives, so the teeth clash instead of meshing. That's the grind, and it's usually worse on downshifts than upshifts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFinding wear in more than one of these? The \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/synchrotech-transmissions-synchro-master-rebuild-kit-honda-acura-k-series?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=a5f5643a7\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003emaster rebuild kit\u003c\/a\u003e covers everything at once and works out cheaper than buying the pieces separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eSynchros Only, Nothing Else\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth being clear, since we sell a few things that look similar.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is \u003cstrong\u003esynchros alone\u003c\/strong\u003e. No springs, bearings, seals, or sleeves. That makes it right when you've got the transmission open, you've inspected everything, and the synchros are genuinely the only thing past spec.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf your springs are tired too, and after this many years they usually are, look at the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/synchrotech-bearing-seal-synchro-rebuild-kit-k-series?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=00a274b9a\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003ebearing and seal kit\u003c\/a\u003e or the master kit instead. Springs are cheap and they directly affect how well a synchro engages, so reusing old ones behind new synchros is a common way to end up disappointed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCarbon Or Brass?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth fix a grinding transmission. They suit different cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBrass\u003c\/strong\u003e is the OEM-style material and the right pick for most street cars. It restores factory shift feel, it's proven over decades, and it costs less. Refreshing a daily driver, start here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCarbon\u003c\/strong\u003e is Synchrotech's Pro Series, and it's genuinely different from OEM brass or the spray-coated and woven-fabric carbon synchros out there. These use a full carbon composite lining built on carbon-carbon technology originally developed for aerospace, and the material acts as a braking element during engagement. It stops the gear faster, which means less grind on high-rpm shifts and less wear on your sleeves and engagement teeth. If you shift hard, run track days, drag race, or make real power, this is the one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne honest note: carbon shifts better, but don't buy it expecting dramatically longer life than brass. You're paying for how it engages.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePick Your Set Carefully\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo things determine which set you need: \u003cstrong\u003ehow many gears you're covering\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003ewhat synchro design your transmission uses\u003c\/strong\u003e. Get both right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003ePart Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eCoverage\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN119\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1-4\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2002-2015 6-speed: RSX, TSX, ITR, CTR, Civic Si (K20 \/ K24 \/ EP3 \/ FN2 \/ FD2)\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN118\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1-6\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eRSX, TSX, ITR, CTR (K20 \/ EP3) with dual cone 3-piece 5th and 6th\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN117\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1-6\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2005-2015 6-speed: RSX, TSX, ITR, CTR, Civic Si (K20 \/ K24 \/ EP3 \/ FN2 \/ FD2) with single cone 1-piece 5th and 6th\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN116\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1-5\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2002-2006 5-speed: RSX, Civic Si (K20 \/ EP3), triple cone 1st and 2nd, single cone 3rd through 5th\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN114\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eFull set\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2002-2006 CR-V, 2003-2008 Element, 2003-2007 Accord (APG6, K24)\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eTwo Things That Catch People Out\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe 5th and 6th gear split.\u003c\/strong\u003e SYN118 and SYN117 both cover gears 1 through 6, and they are not interchangeable. The difference is entirely in 5th and 6th: one uses a dual cone 3-piece design, the other a single cone 1-piece. Look at what's actually in your transmission rather than going by the car, because both sets list the same models.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOnly need the low gears?\u003c\/strong\u003e SYN119 covers 1 through 4 on 6-speed transmissions. If your grinding is isolated to the gears you actually use hard and 5th and 6th are still fine, that's the more sensible buy. First through third take the most abuse on almost every car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're not certain which design you've got, check the transmission code on the case and inspect the synchros with the case open. Getting this wrong means parts that won't work in a job you don't want to do twice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCheck Your Hubs And Sleeves While You're In There\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most important advice on this page. Synchros work against your hubs and sleeves, and if those surfaces are worn, new synchros of any material won't fix your shifting. New carbon on a chewed-up hub is no better than new brass on a chewed-up hub.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo inspect before you close it up. Look at the engagement teeth, the sleeves, and the hubs. Sharp and clean means this set will transform the shift. Rounded off means you need those parts too, and finding out now is far better than after everything's back together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorth Doing Once\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGetting into a K-series transmission is most of the work on this job, whether you're paying a shop or spending your own weekend. The parts are the cheaper half by a wide margin. So while it's open, inspect everything and replace what's genuinely past spec rather than what you assumed was bad. That's how you close it up once and get the shift you were after.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run This Set\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the builder who's already in the transmission, has inspected it properly, and knows the synchros are the problem. You're buying exactly what you need without paying for parts that are still good. If you haven't opened it up yet, or you're finding wear in several places, the master kit is the better value. Pick brass or carbon based on how you drive, match your set carefully, and get your shifts back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e Honda and Acura K-series transmissions, see the table above. \u003cstrong\u003eMaterials:\u003c\/strong\u003e brass (OEM-style) or Synchrotech Pro Series carbon composite. \u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e synchros only. No springs, bearings, seals, or sleeves. \u003cstrong\u003ePart numbers:\u003c\/strong\u003e SYN119 (1-4, 6-speed), SYN118 (1-6, dual cone 5\/6), SYN117 (1-6, single cone 5\/6), SYN116 (1-5, 5-speed), SYN114 (CR-V \/ Element \/ Accord APG6). \u003cstrong\u003eImportant:\u003c\/strong\u003e confirm both your gear coverage and your synchro design before ordering.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type S\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003cbr\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003cbr\u003e2002-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003cbr\u003e2003-2008 Honda Element\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"K20A\/K20Z\/K24A2 1-6 Gears - Single Cone 5\/6th \/ Carbon","offer_id":46472188035106,"sku":"SYN-SYN117","price":346.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"K24A1\/K24A4\/K24A8 \/ Carbon","offer_id":46472188067874,"sku":"SYN-SYN114","price":288.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"K24A1\/K24A4\/K24A8 \/ Brass","offer_id":46472188100642,"sku":"SYN-SYN114B","price":230.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"K20A3 5 Speed \/ Carbon","offer_id":46472188133410,"sku":"SYN-SYN116","price":288.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"K20A3 5 Speed \/ Brass","offer_id":46472188166178,"sku":"SYN-SYN116B","price":230.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"K20A\/K20Z\/K24A2 1-6 Gears - Single Cone 5\/6th \/ Brass","offer_id":46472188198946,"sku":"SYN-SYN117B","price":288.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"K20A\/K20Z\/K24A2 1-6 Gears - Dual Cone 5\/6th \/ Carbon","offer_id":46472188231714,"sku":"SYN-SYN118","price":346.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"K20A\/K20Z\/K24A2 1-6 Gears - Dual Cone 5\/6th \/ Brass","offer_id":46472188264482,"sku":"SYN-SYN118B","price":288.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"K20A\/K20Z\/K24A2 1-4 Gears \/ Carbon","offer_id":46472188297250,"sku":"SYN-SYN119","price":288.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"K20A\/K20Z\/K24A2 1-4 Gears \/ Brass","offer_id":46472188330018,"sku":"SYN-SYN119B","price":230.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/SYN-SYN117_sltp.jpg?v=1787260861"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-b-series-master-synchro-rebuild-kit","title":"Synchrotech B Series Transmission Synchro Master Rebuild Kit","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFitments for Most B Series Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with B16A, B16B, B18C, B17A Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eComplete Synchro Rebuild Kit with Sleeves, Bearings, Springs, Synchros, and Seals \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAvailable in Carbon or Brass \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech B-Series Synchro Master Rebuild Kit - Carbon or Brass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf your B-series grinds going into a gear, you've probably already adapted to it. You slow the shift down, you baby second, you double clutch without thinking. That's worn synchros, and it doesn't get better on its own. This Synchrotech master kit is the complete fix: synchros for every gear plus the springs, sleeves, bearings, and seals to rebuild it properly while it's apart. Available in brass for a factory-quality rebuild or carbon for a real performance upgrade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhich Part Do You Actually Need?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThree parts, three different symptoms. Match yours before you spend money.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eSymptom\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eLikely Part\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGrinds going into gear\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSynchro\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePops out of gear under load\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSleeve\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBinds, feels notchy, or blocks out mid-shift\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHub\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis kit covers the first two, since it includes both synchros and slider sleeves. If you find worn hubs while you're in there, order those separately, because no synchro kit fixes a worn hub.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow To Tell Your Synchros Are Done\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA few reliable signs, and one test worth running.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt grinds into one specific gear.\u003c\/strong\u003e The classic. If everything shifts clean except second, that's second gear's synchro. Isolated grinding almost always means an isolated problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDownshifts are worse than upshifts.\u003c\/strong\u003e This is the useful one. On an upshift, revs are falling naturally and the synchro gets help. On a downshift it has to drag the clutch disc and input shaft up to speed by itself. If the car upshifts quietly but grinds or refuses on a normal downshift, your synchros are worn.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt's getting worse.\u003c\/strong\u003e Wear starts as slight notchiness and progresses to metal-on-metal grinding you feel in your hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne honest note: grinding can also come from a clutch that isn't fully disengaging or from low or wrong transmission fluid. Rule those out first, they're far cheaper to fix than pulling a transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCarbon Or Brass?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth fix a grinding transmission. They suit different cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBrass\u003c\/strong\u003e is the OEM-style material and the right pick for most street cars. It restores factory shift feel, it's proven over decades, and it costs less. Refreshing a daily driver or a mostly stock B-series, start here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCarbon\u003c\/strong\u003e is Synchrotech's Pro Series, using a full carbon composite lining built on carbon-carbon technology originally developed for aerospace. The material acts as a braking element during engagement, stopping the gear faster, which means less grind on high-rpm shifts and less wear on your sleeves and engagement teeth over time. If you shift hard, run track days, drag race, or make real power, this is the one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStraight talk on one point: carbon shifts better, but don't expect dramatically longer life than brass. You're paying for how it engages.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCheck Your Hubs Before You Order\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most important advice on this page. Synchros work against your hubs and sleeves, and if those surfaces are worn, new synchros of any material won't fix your shifting. New carbon on a chewed-up hub is no better than new brass on a chewed-up hub.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe good news is this kit includes new slider sleeves, so half of that equation is handled. But inspect your hubs and your engagement teeth before you close it up. Sharp and clean means this kit transforms the shift. Rounded off means you need hubs too, and finding that out now is far better than after everything's back together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat's In The Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e1-5 synchros (carbon or brass, your choice)\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e1-5 synchro springs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eBrass reverse synchro and spring\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e1-5 slider sleeves\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e5 shaft bearings\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e2 axle seals\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eInput seal\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eShift rod seal\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNew dust boot\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's a genuinely complete rebuild rather than a partial one. Everything that wears in there is covered, including the seals and the dust boot most kits leave you to source separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePick Your Transmission, Not Your Car\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRead this carefully, because B-series transmissions vary considerably and the kits aren't interchangeable. Go by the transmission code on your case rather than by what the car is, especially on a swapped chassis where the gearbox may not be original to it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eTransmission\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eCarbon\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eBrass\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eY80 \/ S80 \/ S4C \/ S21 \/ Y21\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eEM1 Civic Si, 1994-2001 Integra GS-R and Type R\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN101\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN101B\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eYS1 cable\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1992-1993 Integra GS-R\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN101-YS1\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN101B-YS1\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eY1 \/ S1 cable\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1989-1991 Acura Integra\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN103\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN103B\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eY2 \/ A1 \/ J1 cable\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1989-1991 Acura Integra\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN105\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN105B\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eY80 \/ S80 hydro\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1994-2001 Integra GS, LS, and RS\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN107\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN107B\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eYS1 cable\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1992-1993 Integra LS\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN107-YS1\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN107B-YS1\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eThree Things That Catch People Out\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGS-R and Type R take a different kit than GS, LS, and RS\u003c\/strong\u003e, even within the same 1994-2001 range, because the transmissions are different.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCable versus hydro matters.\u003c\/strong\u003e Know which actuation your gearbox uses before ordering, since several of these split on exactly that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe 1989-1991 Integra takes two different kits\u003c\/strong\u003e depending on whether you've got a Y1\/S1 or a Y2\/A1\/J1. Same years, same car, different transmissions. Check the code on your case rather than guessing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorth Doing Once\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGetting into a B-series transmission is the expensive part of this job, whether you're paying a shop or spending your own weekend. The parts are the cheap half by a wide margin. So while it's open, inspect everything and replace what's genuinely past spec rather than what you assumed was bad. That's how you close it up once and get the shift you were after.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run This Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for anyone whose B-series has started grinding and who's ready to fix it properly rather than driving around it. Refreshing a high-mileage transmission, building a gearbox during a swap, or upgrading a car that gets shifted hard. Check your transmission code carefully, inspect your hubs, pick brass or carbon based on how you actually drive, and get your shifts back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e Honda and Acura B-series transmissions, see the table above. \u003cstrong\u003eMaterials:\u003c\/strong\u003e brass (OEM-style) or Synchrotech Pro Series carbon composite. \u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1-5 synchros and springs, brass reverse synchro and spring, 1-5 slider sleeves, 5 shaft bearings, 2 axle seals, input seal, shift rod seal, and dust boot. \u003cstrong\u003eImportant:\u003c\/strong\u003e select by transmission code, not by vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1989 Acura Integra\u003cbr\u003e1990-1993 Acura Integra GS\/LS\/RS\u003cbr\u003e1992-1993 Acura Integra GS-R\u003cbr\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS\/LS\/RS\u003cbr\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R\u003cbr\u003e1997-2001 Acura Integra Type R\u003cbr\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e1997-2001 Honda CR-V\u003cbr\u003e1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"EM1 Civic Si\/94-01 GS-R\/ITR (Y80\/S80\/S4C\/S21\/Y21) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46709539799074,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN101","price":808.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"EM1 Civic Si\/94-01 GS-R\/ITR (Y80\/S80\/S4C\/S21\/Y21) \/ Brass","offer_id":46709539831842,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN101B","price":750.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"92-93 Integra GS-R (YS1 Cable) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46709539864610,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN101-YS1","price":808.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"92-93 Integra GS-R (YS1 Cable) \/ Brass","offer_id":46709539897378,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN101B-YS1","price":750.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"89-91 Integra (Y1\/S1 Cable) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46709539930146,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN103","price":692.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"89-91 Integra (Y1\/S1 Cable) \/ Brass","offer_id":46709539962914,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN103B","price":635.2,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"89-91 Integra (Y2\/A2\/J1 Cable) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46709539995682,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN105","price":692.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"89-91 Integra (Y2\/A2\/J1 Cable) \/ Brass","offer_id":46709540028450,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN105B","price":635.2,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"94-01 Integra GS\/LS\/RS (Y80\/S80 Hydro) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46709540061218,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN107","price":808.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"94-01 Integra GS\/LS\/RS (Y80\/S80 Hydro) \/ Brass","offer_id":46709540093986,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN107B","price":750.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"92-93 Integra LS (YS1 Cable) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46709540126754,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN107-YS1","price":808.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"92-93 Integra LS (YS1 Cable) \/ Brass","offer_id":46709540159522,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN107B-YS1","price":750.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/synchrotech-b-series-transmiss_28p4.jpg?v=1788211209"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-transmissions-d-series-synchro-master-rebuild-kit-d15-d16","title":"Synchrotech D Series Transmission Synchro Master Rebuild Kit","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCheck Your Speedo Gear Color And Size \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCarbon Or Brass, Your Choice \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eComplete Kit With Sleeves And Seals \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFitments for D15, D16, and D17 Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech D-Series Synchro Master Rebuild Kit - Carbon or Brass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf your D-series grinds going into a gear, the synchros are worn and it isn't going to improve on its own. This Synchrotech master kit is the complete fix: synchros for every forward gear plus the springs, sleeves, bearings, and seals to rebuild it properly while the case is open. Available in brass for a factory-quality rebuild or carbon for a real performance upgrade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCheck Your Speedo Gear Before Anything Else\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHere's the thing that determines which kit you need, and it's easier to check than it sounds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eD-series transmissions share a great deal in common with each other. What differs between them is the \u003cstrong\u003espeedo gear bearing size and color\u003c\/strong\u003e, and that's what separates the variants on this page.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo things to note when you look:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor:\u003c\/strong\u003e white or black\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSize:\u003c\/strong\u003e 35mm or 40mm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGenerally, the DX and LX cars run a white 35mm gear while the EX and Si cars run a black 40mm. But go by what's actually in your transmission rather than by the badge on your car, especially on anything that's been swapped, rebuilt, or assembled from parts over the last thirty years. These cars have been apart more than most.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow To Tell Your Synchros Are Done\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA few reliable signs, and one test worth running.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt grinds into one specific gear.\u003c\/strong\u003e If everything shifts clean except second, that's second gear's synchro. Isolated grinding almost always means an isolated problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDownshifts are worse than upshifts.\u003c\/strong\u003e The useful one. On an upshift, revs are falling naturally and the synchro gets help. On a downshift it has to drag the clutch disc and input shaft up to speed by itself. If the car upshifts quietly but grinds or refuses on a normal downshift, your synchros are worn.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt's getting worse.\u003c\/strong\u003e Wear starts as slight notchiness and progresses to metal-on-metal grinding you feel in your hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne honest note: grinding can also come from a clutch that isn't fully disengaging or from low or wrong transmission fluid. Rule those out first, they're far cheaper to fix than pulling a transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCarbon Or Brass?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth fix a grinding transmission. They suit different cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBrass\u003c\/strong\u003e is the OEM-style material and the right pick for most street cars. It restores factory shift feel, it's proven, and it costs less. On a D-series that's mostly stock and mostly driven, start here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCarbon\u003c\/strong\u003e is Synchrotech's Pro Series, using a full carbon composite lining built on carbon-carbon technology originally developed for aerospace. The material acts as a braking element during engagement, stopping the gear faster, which means less grind on high-rpm shifts and less wear on your sleeves and engagement teeth. If you shift hard, run track days, drag race, or have built the engine, this is the one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStraight talk on one point: carbon shifts better, but don't expect dramatically longer life than brass. You're paying for how it engages.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCheck Your Hubs Before You Order\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most important advice on this page. Synchros work against your hubs and sleeves, and if those surfaces are worn, new synchros of any material won't fix your shifting. New carbon on a chewed-up hub is no better than new brass on a chewed-up hub.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis kit includes new slider sleeves, so half of that equation is handled. But inspect your hubs and your engagement teeth before you close it up. Sharp and clean means this kit transforms the shift. Rounded off means you need hubs too, and finding out now is far better than after everything's back together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat's In The Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e1-5 synchros (carbon or brass, your choice)\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e1-5 synchro springs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e1-5 slider sleeves\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e5 shaft bearings\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e2 axle seals\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eInput seal\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFind Your Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eTransmission \/ Speedo Gear\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eCarbon\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eBrass\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eL3 \/ S20, white 35mm speedo gear\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1989-1995 Honda Civic DX and LX\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN111-D15\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN111B-D15\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eS40, white 35mm speedo gear\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1996-2000 Honda Civic DX and LX\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN111-D15-S40\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN111B-D15-S40\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eL3 \/ S20, black 40mm speedo gear\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1989-1995 Honda Civic EX and Si\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN111-D16\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN111B-D16\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eS40, black 40mm speedo gear\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1996-2000 Honda Civic EX\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN111-D16-S40\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN111B-D16-S40\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSLW\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2001-2005 Honda Civic (D17)\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN113\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN113B\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSelect your material and transmission at checkout.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eTwo Things That Catch People Out\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe 1996 changeover.\u003c\/strong\u003e Honda moved from the L3\/S20 transmissions to the S40 for 1996, so a 95 and a 96 Civic with the same trim take different kits. Check your year carefully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTrim doesn't always match reality.\u003c\/strong\u003e The DX\/LX versus EX\/Si split lines up with the speedo gear on an untouched car, but plenty of these have had transmissions swapped over the decades. Look at the gear itself rather than trusting the badge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorth Doing Once\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGetting into a D-series transmission is the expensive part of this job, whether you're paying a shop or spending your own weekend. The parts are the cheap half by a wide margin. So while it's open, inspect everything and replace what's genuinely past spec rather than what you assumed was bad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run This Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for anyone whose D-series has started grinding and who's ready to fix it properly, and for the builder going through a transmission during a swap or a refresh. These cars are thirty-plus years old now and the synchros in them have done a lot of shifting. Check your speedo gear, inspect your hubs, pick brass or carbon based on how you drive, and get your shifts back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1989-1991 Honda Civic, 1992-1995 Civic DX, EX, LX, and Si, 1996-2000 Civic DX, EX, and LX, 2001-2005 Civic DX, EX, and LX. See the table above for the correct kit. \u003cstrong\u003eMaterials:\u003c\/strong\u003e brass (OEM-style) or Synchrotech Pro Series carbon composite. \u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1-5 synchros, springs, and slider sleeves, 5 shaft bearings, 2 axle seals, and input seal. \u003cstrong\u003eImportant:\u003c\/strong\u003e select by transmission and speedo gear, not by vehicle trim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1989-1991 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\/Si\u003cbr\u003e1992-1995 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\/Si\u003cbr\u003e1996-2000 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\u003cbr\u003e2001-2005 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"89-95 Civic DX\/LX (L3\/S20 White 35mm Speedo Gear) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46736834527266,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN111-D15","price":508.15,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"89-95 Civic DX\/LX (L3\/S20 White 35mm Speedo Gear) \/ Brass","offer_id":46736834560034,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN111BD15","price":444.62,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"96-00 Civic DX\/LX (S40 White 35mm Speedo Gear) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46736834592802,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN111D15S40","price":508.15,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"96-00 Civic DX\/LX (S40 White 35mm Speedo Gear) \/ Brass","offer_id":46736834625570,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN111BD15S40","price":444.62,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"89-95 Civic EX\/Si (L3\/S20 Black 40mm Speedo Gear) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46736834658338,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN111-D16","price":508.15,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"89-95 Civic EX\/Si (L3\/S20 Black 40mm Speedo Gear) \/ Brass","offer_id":46736834691106,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN111BD16","price":444.62,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"96-00 Civic EX (S40 Black 40mm Speedo Gear) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46736834723874,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN111D16S40","price":508.15,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"96-00 Civic EX (S40 Black 40mm Speedo Gear) \/ Brass","offer_id":46736834756642,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN111BD16S40","price":444.62,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"01-05 Civic D17 (SLW) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46736835018786,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN113","price":635.2,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"01-05 Civic D17 (SLW) \/ Brass","offer_id":46736835051554,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN113B","price":571.66,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/SYN-MK-SYN111-D15_47cg.jpg?v=1788279516"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-k20-6-speed-mainshaft-civic-si-rsx","title":"Synchrotech K20 6 Speed Mainshaft for 06-11 Civic Si\/DC5 RSX","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFactory Ratios, No Change In Driving \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e3.266 First, 2.13 Second \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eComplete Mainshaft Assembly Meeting OEM Specs \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with DC5 RSX and 8th Gen Civic Si \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech K20 6-Speed Mainshaft (SG-K213-MS)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe mainshaft carries first and second gear, and on a K20 6-speed those are the two gears taking the worst of everything. Launches, hard 1-2 shifts, and the highest torque multiplication in the box all land here. If yours has been damaged, or you're building a transmission properly from the case up, this is the Synchrotech replacement, built to OEM ratios with materials and tolerances meant to outlast the factory part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eSame Ratios As Stock\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth saying plainly, because it's the first question people have. This runs a \u003cstrong\u003e15-tooth 3.266 first\u003c\/strong\u003e and a \u003cstrong\u003e23-tooth 2.13 second\u003c\/strong\u003e, which are the factory ratios.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat means the car drives exactly as it did before. Same gearing, same shift points, same speeds in each gear, no tuning adjustments and no relearning the car. You're replacing a damaged or worn component with a stronger version of the same thing, not changing how the transmission behaves.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you wanted a ratio change, that's a different product. This is the one you buy when the gearing was never the problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy First And Second Fail First\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth understanding, because it explains why this is the part people end up needing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe lower the gear, the higher the torque multiplication through it. First and second see dramatically more load than fifth and sixth, and they see it in the most abusive way, on launches and on hard shifts where the driveline is shock loaded rather than gradually loaded.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAdd power to a K20 and that gets worse fast. A transmission that was fine at stock output starts damaging teeth or shafts once you're making real torque and using it. That's why mainshafts and gearsets exist for this gearbox, and why they're what serious builds go through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBuy The Assembly, Not Just Gears\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is a complete mainshaft with first and second, and that matters more than it sounds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe shaft itself is a wear item. Splines and bearing surfaces take load every time you shift, and a shaft that's been through a gear failure often carries damage you won't spot until it costs you a second time. Starting with a fresh assembly removes that variable entirely rather than gambling on a used shaft you can't fully inspect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBuilt Stronger Than Factory\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSynchrotech manufactures these to meet or exceed OEM specification, using quality materials and tight tolerances so the shaft holds up where the factory part gave out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThey've spent decades working specifically on Honda transmissions, developing materials and heat treat alongside metallurgists, which is why their name comes up constantly when someone's gearbox lets go on a car making real power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhile You're In There\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eReplacing a mainshaft means the transmission is fully apart, which is nearly all the labor on this job. Use the access.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInspect your synchros, sleeves, hubs, and bearings while everything is exposed, and replace what's past spec. Anything that ran alongside a damaged gear has likely taken debris or abuse, and closing the case up with a fresh mainshaft next to worn synchros means doing this again sooner than you'd like.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're finding wear throughout, a full rebuild kit is better value than replacing pieces individually.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e2001-2011 Honda and Acura K20 6-speed transmissions, including:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX and RSX Type-S\u003cbr\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003eAcura Integra Type R (DC5)\u003cbr\u003eHonda Civic Type R\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePart number SG-K213-MS. 6-speed transmissions only.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Grab One\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the builder who's opened a K20 6-speed and found damage on the mainshaft, and for anyone assembling a transmission for a car making enough power to justify doing it properly. Factory ratios mean nothing about how the car drives changes, you're just replacing a weak point with something stronger. Inspect everything else while you can see it, and close it up once.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2001-2011 Honda and Acura K20 6-speed transmissions (RSX, RSX Type-S, Civic Si, DC5 Integra Type R, Civic Type R). \u003cstrong\u003ePart number:\u003c\/strong\u003e SG-K213-MS. \u003cstrong\u003eRatios:\u003c\/strong\u003e 3.266 first (15 tooth), 2.13 second (23 tooth), matching factory. \u003cstrong\u003eType:\u003c\/strong\u003e complete mainshaft assembly, direct OEM replacement.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S\u003cbr\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":46745273630754,"sku":"SYN-SG-K213-MS","price":439.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/SYN-SG-K213-MS_u3r8.jpg?v=1788287010"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-b-series-mainshaft-b16a-b18c-b18b","title":"Synchrotech B16A\/B18B\/B18C Pro Series Mainshaft","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eComplete Mainshaft Assembly Exceeds OEM Specs \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFitments for the B16A, B18B, and B18C Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e3.23 First Gear, Factory Ratios Retained \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with EM1 Civic Si, Del Sol VTEC, Integra GS-R\/Type R\/LS \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech Pro Series Mainshaft - B16 \u0026amp; B18 (1994-2001)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe mainshaft carries first and second gear, and those are the two taking the worst of what a B-series does. Launches, hard 1-2 shifts, and the highest torque multiplication in the transmission all land here. If yours has been damaged, or you're building a gearbox properly from the case up, this is the Synchrotech Pro Series replacement at factory ratios.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eTwo Versions, Split By Second Gear\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth variants share the same \u003cstrong\u003e13-tooth 3.23 first gear\u003c\/strong\u003e. What separates them is second, and that's what determines which one you need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003ePart Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eSecond Gear\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSG-B190-MS\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1.90 ratio, 20 tooth\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R and LS (B18C1, B18B)\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSG-B210-MS\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2.10 ratio, 19 tooth\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra Type R (B18C5), 1999-2000 Honda Civic Si and 1994-1997 Del Sol VTEC (B16A)\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Type R and B16 cars run a shorter second gear than the GS-R and LS, which is part of why those transmissions feel more aggressive through the low gears. Match your engine and transmission rather than going by the car alone, since plenty of these have been swapped over the decades.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFactory Ratios, So Nothing Changes\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth versions run the same ratios your transmission had from the factory. That means the car drives exactly as it did before, same gearing, same shift points, same speeds in each gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're replacing a damaged or worn component with a stronger version of the same part rather than changing how the transmission behaves. If you wanted a ratio change, that's a different product. This is the one you buy when the gearing was never the problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy First And Second Fail First\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth understanding, because it explains why this is the part people end up needing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe lower the gear, the higher the torque multiplication through it. First and second see far more load than fourth and fifth, and they see it in the most abusive way, on launches and hard shifts where the driveline gets shock loaded rather than gradually loaded.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAdd power to a B-series and that gets worse quickly. A transmission that was fine at stock output starts damaging teeth or shafts once you're making real torque and using it. On cars that are now thirty years old and have often been built, swapped, and driven hard, the mainshaft is a common casualty.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBuy The Assembly, Not Just Gears\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is a complete mainshaft with first and second, which matters more than it sounds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe shaft itself is a wear item. Splines and bearing surfaces take load every time you shift, and a shaft that's been through a gear failure often carries damage you won't spot until it costs you again. Starting with a fresh assembly removes that variable rather than gambling on a used shaft you can't fully inspect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePro Series Construction\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSynchrotech has spent decades working specifically on Honda transmissions, developing materials and heat treat processes with metallurgists rather than adapting generic parts. Their Pro Series components are built to handle considerably more than the factory pieces they replace, which is why their name comes up whenever someone's gearbox lets go on a car making real power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhile You're In There\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eReplacing a mainshaft means the transmission is fully apart, which is nearly all the labor on this job. Use the access.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInspect your synchros, sleeves, hubs, and bearings while everything is exposed and replace what's past spec. Anything that ran alongside a damaged gear has likely taken debris or abuse, and closing the case up with a fresh mainshaft next to worn synchros means doing this again sooner than you'd like.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're finding wear throughout, a full rebuild kit is better value than replacing pieces individually.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R and LS (SG-B190-MS)\u003cbr\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra Type R, 1999-2000 Honda Civic Si, 1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC (SG-B210-MS)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSelect your application at checkout.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Grab One\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the builder who's opened a B-series and found damage on the mainshaft, and for anyone assembling a transmission for a car making enough power to justify doing it right. Factory ratios mean nothing about how the car drives changes, you're just replacing a weak point with something stronger. Confirm your second gear ratio, inspect everything else while you can see it, and close it up once.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R and LS, 1994-2001 Integra Type R, 1999-2000 Honda Civic Si, 1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC. \u003cstrong\u003ePart numbers:\u003c\/strong\u003e SG-B190-MS (3.23 first \/ 1.90 second) and SG-B210-MS (3.23 first \/ 2.10 second). \u003cstrong\u003eRatios:\u003c\/strong\u003e matching factory. \u003cstrong\u003eType:\u003c\/strong\u003e complete Pro Series mainshaft assembly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS\/LS\/RS\u003cbr\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R\u003cbr\u003e1997-2001 Acura Integra Type R\u003cbr\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"B18C1\/B18B","offer_id":46745508675618,"sku":"SYN-SG-B190-MS","price":439.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B18C5\/B16A","offer_id":46745508708386,"sku":"SYN-SG-B210-MS","price":439.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/synchrotech-b16a-b18b-b18c-pro_eh46.jpg?v=1788287890"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-l15b-transmission-synchro-master-rebuild-kit-17-20-civic-si","title":"Synchrotech L15B Transmission Synchro Master Rebuild Kit","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eReplacement Synchros for L15B Transmission \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eComplete Rebuild Kit with Seals, Sleeves, Bearings, and Springs \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with 10th Gen Civic Si\/EX-T \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInspect Hubs Before Ordering \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech L15B Synchro Master Rebuild Kit - 2016-2020 Honda Civic EX-T \u0026amp; Si\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 10th gen Si is a genuinely good car, and it's now old enough and driven hard enough that transmissions are starting to need attention. If yours grinds going into a gear, this is the complete fix: synchros, springs, sleeves, bearings, and seals to rebuild it properly while the case is open. Available in brass for a factory-quality rebuild or carbon for a real performance upgrade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eYes, These Wear Out Too\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth addressing, because people don't expect synchro problems on a car this recent.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 10th gen Si is a car people shift hard. It's a turbo four with a good gearbox and an owner base that uses it, which means these transmissions accumulate aggressive shifts faster than a commuter would. Add a tune, more boost, or track days and the loads go up further.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo a grinding L15B isn't a sign something went wrong. It's a sign the car got used the way it was built to be used, and now the synchros want replacing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow To Tell Your Synchros Are Done\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA few reliable signs, and one test worth running.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt grinds into one specific gear.\u003c\/strong\u003e If everything shifts clean except third, that's third gear's synchro. Isolated grinding almost always means an isolated problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDownshifts are worse than upshifts.\u003c\/strong\u003e The useful one. On an upshift, revs are falling naturally and the synchro gets help. On a downshift it has to drag the clutch disc and input shaft up to speed by itself. If the car upshifts quietly but grinds or refuses on a normal downshift, your synchros are worn.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt's getting worse.\u003c\/strong\u003e Wear starts as slight notchiness and progresses to metal-on-metal grinding you feel in your hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne honest note: grinding can also come from a clutch that isn't fully disengaging or from low or wrong transmission fluid. Rule those out first, they're far cheaper than pulling a transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCarbon Or Brass?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth fix a grinding transmission. They suit different cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBrass (SYN125B)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the OEM-style material and the right pick if the Si is your daily. It restores factory shift feel, it's proven, and it costs less. If you're refreshing the car and want it back to how it felt new, start here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCarbon (SYN125)\u003c\/strong\u003e is Synchrotech's Pro Series, using a full carbon composite lining built on carbon-carbon technology originally developed for aerospace. The material acts as a braking element during engagement, stopping the gear faster, which means less grind on high-rpm shifts and less wear on your sleeves and engagement teeth over time. If you're tuned, running boost, or seeing track days, this is the one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStraight talk on one point: carbon shifts better, but don't expect dramatically longer life than brass. You're paying for how it engages.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCheck Your Hubs Before You Order\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most important advice on this page. Synchros work against your hubs and sleeves, and if those surfaces are worn, new synchros of any material won't fix your shifting. New carbon on a chewed-up hub is no better than new brass on one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis kit includes new sleeves, so half of that equation is handled. But inspect your hubs and your engagement teeth before you close it up. Sharp and clean means this kit transforms the shift. Rounded off means you need hubs too, and finding out now is far better than after everything's back together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat's In The Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSynchros for every gear (carbon or brass, your choice)\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSynchro springs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSlider sleeves\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eBearings\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSeals\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's a complete rebuild rather than a partial one. Everything that wears is covered, which is the point of a master kit versus replacing one synchro and going back in a year for the next.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorth Doing Once\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGetting into the transmission is the expensive part of this job, whether you're paying a shop or spending your own weekend. The parts are the cheap half by a wide margin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo while it's open, inspect everything and replace what's genuinely past spec rather than what you assumed was bad. That's how you close it up once and get the shift you were after instead of doing this again next year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e2016-2020 Honda Civic EX-T and Si (L15B)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCarbon: SYN125\u003cbr\u003eBrass: SYN125B\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run This Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the 10th gen owner whose transmission has started grinding and who wants it fixed properly, and for the builder refreshing a gearbox on a car that's making more than it did stock. Inspect your hubs, pick brass or carbon based on how you actually drive, and get your shifts back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2016-2020 Honda Civic EX-T and Si (L15B). \u003cstrong\u003ePart numbers:\u003c\/strong\u003e SYN125 (carbon), SYN125B (brass). \u003cstrong\u003eMaterials:\u003c\/strong\u003e brass (OEM-style) or Synchrotech Pro Series carbon composite. \u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e synchros, springs, sleeves, bearings, and seals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2016-2020 Honda Civic EX-T\u003cbr\u003e2017-2020 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"Carbon","offer_id":46745643188258,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN125","price":808.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Brass","offer_id":46745643221026,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN125B","price":750.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/SYN-MK-SYN125_698d.png?v=1788291895"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-transmissions-synchro-spring-set-d-series","title":"Synchrotech D Series Synchro Spring Set for 88-05 Civic","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFitments for D15, D16, and D17 Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with 88-05 Civic \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWear Item in Abused Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHelps Retain Synchro in Correct Orientation \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech D-Series Synchro Spring Set - 1988-2005 Honda Civic\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSprings are the part nobody thinks about and everybody should. They're what pushes the blocker ring against the cone to start the synchronizing action every time you shift, and when they weaken, the synchro can't engage firmly enough to do its job. You get a grind that feels exactly like a worn synchro even when the synchro itself still has material left. This is the complete 1-5 spring set for D-series transmissions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhich Part Do You Actually Need?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThree parts, three different symptoms. Match yours before you spend money.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eSymptom\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eLikely Part\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGrinds going into gear\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSynchro and springs\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePops out of gear under load\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSleeve\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBinds, feels notchy, or blocks out mid-shift\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHub\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSprings live in that first row alongside the synchros, which is exactly why they're worth replacing together. Tired springs produce the same grind a worn synchro does, so putting new synchros in behind old springs means you've only fixed half the problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAlways Replace Springs With Synchros\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe practical advice worth the most on this page. If you've got the transmission open to do synchros, put fresh springs in at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThey've been cycling and heating alongside everything else for the same number of years and the same number of shifts, so they're tired even if they look fine. On a Civic that's now anywhere from twenty to thirty-five years old, that's a lot of shifts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSprings are the cheapest part in the whole assembly and among the most annoying to have to go back in for. Reusing them behind a fresh set of carbon or brass synchros is how a rebuild ends up feeling only slightly better than it did before.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eSprings Alone, Or The Master Kit?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth deciding before you order.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBuy this set on its own if you've inspected the transmission and your synchros, sleeves, and bearings are genuinely still good. That happens, particularly on a lower-mileage car where the springs have simply lost tension with age.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're finding wear in more than one place, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/synchrotech-transmissions-d-series-synchro-master-rebuild-kit-d15-d16\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eD-series master rebuild kit\u003c\/a\u003e includes these springs along with synchros, sleeves, bearings, and seals, and it works out cheaper than buying the pieces separately. Given the labor to get in there, most people going this deep end up wanting the full kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eMatch Your Case\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo versions, and the split is by transmission rather than by year alone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003ePart Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSP111\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1988-2000 Honda Civic, SOHC D15 and D16, case ID L3, S20, or S40\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSP113\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2001-2005 Honda Civic EX and LX, D17, case ID SLW\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCheck the case ID on your transmission rather than going by model year, especially on a car that's been swapped or rebuilt at some point. On thirty-year-old Civics that's more common than not.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e1988-2000 Honda Civic with D15 or D16 (SP111)\u003cbr\u003e2001-2005 Honda Civic EX and LX with D17 (SP113)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eComplete 1-5 spring set. Select your application at checkout.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Grab This Set\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for anyone with the transmission apart doing synchro work, and for the builder who understands that a rebuild is only as good as its weakest reused part. Springs are inexpensive, they're a known wear item, and they directly affect whether your new synchros actually engage the way they should. If you're in there, put them in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1988-2000 Honda Civic (D15 \/ D16, case ID L3, S20, S40) and 2001-2005 Honda Civic EX and LX (D17, case ID SLW). \u003cstrong\u003ePart numbers:\u003c\/strong\u003e SP111 and SP113. \u003cstrong\u003eCoverage:\u003c\/strong\u003e complete 1-5 set.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1988-1991 Honda Civic DX\/EX\u003cbr\u003e1992-1995 Honda Civic CX\/DX\/EX\/LX\/VX\/Si\u003cbr\u003e1996-2000 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\/VX\u003cbr\u003e2001-2005 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\u003cbr\u003e1988-1991 Honda CRX\u003cbr\u003e1993-1997 Honda Del Sol S\/Si\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"88-00 Civic DX\/EX\/LX D15\/D16","offer_id":46785385136162,"sku":"SYN-SP111","price":51.98,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"01-05 Civic DX\/EX\/LX D17","offer_id":46785385168930,"sku":"SYN-SP113","price":51.98,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/SYN-SP111_gsqt.jpg?v=1788364668"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-transmission-f-h-series-synchro-master-rebuild-kit-accord-prelude","title":"Synchrotech F\/H Series Transmission Synchro Master Rebuild Kit","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eComplete Kit with Seals, Synchros, Springs, Sleeves, and Bearings \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFitments for 92-02 Accord and 93-01 Prelude \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCarbon or Brass Synchros, Your Choice \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCheck Your Shift Fork Thickness for Fitment \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech F-Series \u0026amp; H-Series Synchro Master Rebuild Kit - Carbon or Brass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf your Prelude or Accord grinds going into a gear, the synchros are worn and it isn't improving on its own. This Synchrotech master kit is the complete fix: synchros for every forward gear plus the springs, sleeves, bearings, and seals to rebuild it properly while the case is open. Available in brass for a factory-quality rebuild or carbon for a real performance upgrade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhich Part Do You Actually Need?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThree parts, three different symptoms. Match yours before you spend money.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eSymptom\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eLikely Part\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGrinds going into gear\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSynchro\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePops out of gear under load\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSleeve\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBinds, feels notchy, or blocks out mid-shift\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHub\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis kit covers the first two, since it includes both synchros and slider sleeves. If you find worn hubs while you're in there, order those separately, because no synchro kit fixes a worn hub.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow To Tell Your Synchros Are Done\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA few reliable signs, and one test worth running.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt grinds into one specific gear.\u003c\/strong\u003e If everything shifts clean except second, that's second gear's synchro. Isolated grinding almost always means an isolated problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDownshifts are worse than upshifts.\u003c\/strong\u003e The useful one. On an upshift, revs are falling naturally and the synchro gets help. On a downshift it has to drag the clutch disc and input shaft up to speed by itself. If the car upshifts quietly but grinds or refuses on a normal downshift, your synchros are worn.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt's getting worse.\u003c\/strong\u003e Wear starts as slight notchiness and progresses to metal-on-metal grinding you feel in your hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne honest note: grinding can also come from a clutch that isn't fully disengaging or from low or wrong transmission fluid. Rule those out first, they're far cheaper than pulling a transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAccord Owners: Measure Your 3-4 Fork\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the most important section on the page, so don't skip it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe two Accord kits are separated by \u003cstrong\u003e3-4 shift fork thickness\u003c\/strong\u003e, not by transmission code. That matters because six transmission codes (P2A5, P2U5, M2L5, M2S4, M2J4, and M2J5) appear on both kits. Reading the code off your case will not tell you which one you need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e6.5mm fork\u003c\/strong\u003e takes SYN115-3A, the 1992-1995 kit.\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e7.5mm fork\u003c\/strong\u003e takes SYN115-3, the 1996-2002 kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThey're not interchangeable. A 6.5mm fork car will not accept the 7.5mm kit and vice versa. Measure it rather than guessing from the year, especially on a car that's been swapped or rebuilt over the last thirty years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAnd Check Your Second Gear Synchro Design\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more thing while you're in there, and this one catches people.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth Accord kits are built for a \u003cstrong\u003e3-piece dual cone second gear synchro\u003c\/strong\u003e. Some early models came with a \u003cstrong\u003esingle piece\u003c\/strong\u003e second synchro instead, and those won't work with either kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo verify your second synchro design before ordering. If you're not certain what you're looking at, get in touch and we'll help you identify it. Better a phone call now than the wrong parts with the transmission already apart.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCarbon Or Brass?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth fix a grinding transmission. They suit different cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBrass\u003c\/strong\u003e is the OEM-style material and the right pick for most street cars. It restores factory shift feel, it's proven over decades, and it costs less. Refreshing a daily driver or a mostly stock car, start here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCarbon\u003c\/strong\u003e is Synchrotech's Pro Series, using a full carbon composite lining built on carbon-carbon technology originally developed for aerospace. The material acts as a braking element during engagement, stopping the gear faster, which means less grind on high-rpm shifts and less wear on your sleeves and engagement teeth. If you shift hard, run track days, or have built the engine, this is the one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStraight talk: carbon shifts better, but don't expect dramatically longer life than brass. You're paying for how it engages.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCheck Your Hubs Before You Order\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSynchros work against your hubs and sleeves, and if those surfaces are worn, new synchros of any material won't fix your shifting. New carbon on a chewed-up hub is no better than new brass on one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis kit includes new slider sleeves, so half of that equation is handled. But inspect your hubs and your engagement teeth before you close it up. Sharp and clean means this kit transforms the shift. Rounded off means you need hubs too, and finding out now is far better than after everything's back together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat's In The Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e1-5 synchros (carbon or brass, your choice)\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e1-5 synchro springs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eBrass reverse synchro and spring\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e1-5 slider sleeves\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e5 shaft bearings\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e2 axle seals\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eInput seal\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eShift rod seal\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNew dust boot\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's a genuinely complete rebuild, including the seals and dust boot most kits leave you to source separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFind Your Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eApplication\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eTransmission Codes\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eCarbon\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eBrass\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1993-2001 Honda Prelude\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eM2Y4, M2A4, M2F4, M2B4, T2T4\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN109\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN109B\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1998-2001 Honda Accord Euro R (JDM \/ EUDM)\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eU2Q7, T2W4\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN109E\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN109EB\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1992-1995 Honda Accord, 6.5mm fork\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eH2A5, H2U5, P2A5, P2U5, M2L5, M2S4, M2J4, M2J5\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN115-3A\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN115-3AB\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1996-2002 Honda Accord, 7.5mm fork\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eP2A5, P2U5, P2A8, M2L5, M2S4, M2J4, M2J5\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN115-3\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSYN115-3B\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth Accord kits require a 3-piece dual cone second gear synchro.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorth Doing Once\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGetting into the transmission is the expensive part of this job, whether you're paying a shop or spending your own weekend. The parts are the cheap half by a wide margin. So while it's open, inspect everything and replace what's genuinely past spec rather than what you assumed was bad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run This Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the Prelude or Accord owner whose transmission has started grinding and who's ready to fix it properly rather than driving around it. These cars are twenty-five to thirty-five years old now and the synchros in them have done a lot of shifting. Measure your fork if you're in an Accord, verify your second synchro design, inspect your hubs, and get your shifts back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1993-2001 Honda Prelude, 1992-2002 Honda Accord, 1998-2001 Accord Euro R. See the table above for the correct kit. \u003cstrong\u003eMaterials:\u003c\/strong\u003e brass (OEM-style) or Synchrotech Pro Series carbon composite. \u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1-5 synchros, springs, and slider sleeves, brass reverse synchro and spring, 5 shaft bearings, 2 axle seals, input seal, shift rod seal, and dust boot. \u003cstrong\u003eImportant:\u003c\/strong\u003e Accord kits are determined by 3-4 fork thickness, not transmission code, and require a 3-piece dual cone second synchro.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1992-2002 Honda Accord (F22\/F23)\u003cbr\u003e1993-2001 Honda Prelude\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"93-01 Prelude (M2Y4\/M2A4\/M2F4\/M2B4\/T2T4) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46811291320354,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN109","price":808.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"93-01 Prelude (M2Y4\/M2A4\/M2F4\/M2B4\/T2T4) \/ Brass","offer_id":46811291353122,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN109B","price":750.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"98-01 Accord Euro R (U2Q7\/T2W4) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46811291385890,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN109E","price":808.45,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"98-01 Accord Euro R (U2Q7\/T2W4) \/ Brass","offer_id":46811291418658,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN109EB","price":750.76,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"96-02 Accord (P2A5\/P2U5\/P2A8\/M2L5\/M2S4\/M2J4\/M2J5) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46811291451426,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN115-3","price":750.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"96-02 Accord (P2A5\/P2U5\/P2A8\/M2L5\/M2S4\/M2J4\/M2J5) \/ Brass","offer_id":46811291484194,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN115-3B","price":692.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"92-95 Accord (H2A5\/H2U5\/P2A5\/P2U5\/M2L5\/M2S4\/M2J4\/M2J5) \/ Carbon","offer_id":46811291516962,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN115-3A","price":750.7,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"92-95 Accord (H2A5\/H2U5\/P2A5\/P2U5\/M2L5\/M2S4\/M2J4\/M2J5) \/ Brass","offer_id":46811291549730,"sku":"SYN-MK-SYN115-3AB","price":692.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/synchrotech-f-h-series-transmi_tkmu.jpg?v=1788381768"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-transmission-b18c-ball-bearing-conversion-kit","title":"Synchrotech B18C Ball Bearing Conversion Kit for Integra GS-R\/Type R","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eConverts Tapered to Ball Bearing \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWorks with 10 Bolt Differentials Only \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMeasure Preload, Don't Assume \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with B18C1\/B18C5 GS-R\/Type R Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech Differential Ball Bearing Conversion Kit (B-ITRC) - 94-97 GS-R \u0026amp; Type R\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe early B18C transmissions came with tapered differential bearings, and Honda moved to ball bearings on the later cars for good reason. This kit lets you make that change. It converts a 94-97 GS-R or Type R differential from the tapered setup to the ball bearing design used from 98 on, which is what most builders want when the case is already apart.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy Ball Bearings Over Tapered\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth understanding, because it explains why this conversion exists at all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTapered bearings handle thrust load well, but they require preload to be set correctly and they generate more friction than a ball bearing does. That preload also changes as things wear and as temperature moves, which means the setting you dialed in cold isn't necessarily what you have at operating temperature.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBall bearings run with less friction and are considerably less sensitive to preload variation. Honda's own switch to the ball bearing design on the 98-01 transmissions tells you which they preferred once they had the choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor anyone building a transmission, that means one fewer setup variable to get exactly right and a differential that's more forgiving over time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCheck Your Differential First\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo things to confirm before ordering, and they're both quick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis kit is for the \u003cstrong\u003e10 bolt differential with tapered bearings\u003c\/strong\u003e, which is what the 94-97 GS-R and Type R transmissions came with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt will not fit the 14 bolt viscous LSD.\u003c\/strong\u003e If that's what's in your transmission, this isn't the right kit. Count the bolts on your ring gear before you order.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eMeasure Your Preload, Don't Assume It\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most important install advice on this page.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe kit ships with a \u003cstrong\u003e1.45mm preload shim\u003c\/strong\u003e, which is the standard size and fits most cases. But cases vary, bearings vary, and assuming the included shim is correct because it came in the box is a bold assumption on a differential you're about to seal up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMeasure your actual clearance during assembly. If the number calls for a different thickness, use one. Getting differential preload wrong means either a bearing that's running loaded and wearing early, or one with play it shouldn't have, and either way you're splitting the case again to fix it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe stock \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-d-b-k-l-r-series-differential-thrust-shim?_pos=2\u0026amp;_sid=960eaf45f\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003edifferential thrust shims for Honda B, D, K, L, and R series transmissions\u003c\/a\u003e in a range of thicknesses, so if your measurement calls for something other than 1.45mm you can get exactly what you need rather than making do. Worth having a couple of sizes on hand before you start, since discovering you need a different shim mid-assembly stops the job cold.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eDo It While The Case Is Open\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eConverting differential bearings means the transmission is apart, which is nearly all the labor on this job. Use the access.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the natural moment to fit an \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/mfactory-helical-lsd-b-series?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=e28b1f38e\u0026amp;_ss=r\u0026amp;variant=45118447878178\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eLSD if one is in your plans\u003c\/a\u003e, since the differential is already out and you'd otherwise be doing this same teardown again later. Same goes for synchros, sleeves, and seals if the transmission has real miles on it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe parts are the cheap half of any transmission job. The labor is what costs you, so spend it once.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e1994-1997 Acura Integra GS-R (B18C1)\u003cbr\u003e1994-1997 Acura Integra Type R (B18C5)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor transmissions with the 10 bolt differential and tapered bearing design. Part number B-ITRC.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes not fit the 14 bolt viscous LSD.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Grab This Kit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the builder going through a 94-97 B18C transmission who wants the later ball bearing setup rather than putting tapered bearings back in. Less friction, less preload sensitivity, and the design Honda themselves moved to. Count your differential bolts, measure your clearance properly, and close the case up once.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1994-1997 Acura Integra GS-R (B18C1) and Type R (B18C5) with 10 bolt differential and tapered bearings. \u003cstrong\u003ePart number:\u003c\/strong\u003e B-ITRC. \u003cstrong\u003eConverts to:\u003c\/strong\u003e ball bearing differential setup as used on 98-01 transmissions. \u003cstrong\u003eIncludes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.45mm standard preload shim. \u003cstrong\u003eAlso available:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-d-b-k-l-r-series-differential-thrust-shim?_pos=2\u0026amp;_sid=960eaf45f\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003edifferential thrust shims\u003c\/a\u003e in additional thicknesses. \u003cstrong\u003eDoes not fit:\u003c\/strong\u003e 14 bolt viscous LSD.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R\u003cbr\u003e1997-2001 Acura Integra Type R\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47377628332066,"sku":"SYN-B-ITRC","price":80.84,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/SYN-B-ITRC_xhte.jpg?v=1788899819"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-transmission-synchro-spring-set-b-series","title":"Synchrotech B Series Synchro Spring Set for B16\/B17\/B18","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eComplete, 5 Gear Spring Set \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eReplace with Every Synchro Job \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTired Springs Grind Like Worn Synchros \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCheap Insurance for Race Driven B Series \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech B-Series Synchro Spring Set - B16, B17 \u0026amp; B18\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSprings are the part nobody thinks about and everybody should. They're what pushes the blocker ring against the cone to start the synchronizing action every time you shift, and when they weaken, the synchro can't engage firmly enough to do its job. You get a grind that feels exactly like a worn synchro even when the synchro itself still has material left. This is the complete 1-5 spring set for B-series transmissions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy Tired Springs Feel Like Worn Synchros\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth understanding, because it's the reason these get overlooked in a rebuild.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour synchro can only do its job if it's pressed firmly against the cone. That pressure comes from the spring. As the spring loses tension over decades of heating and cycling, the synchro engages more weakly, takes longer to bring the gear to speed, and eventually can't finish the job before the sleeve arrives.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe result is a grind. Same symptom as a worn synchro, different cause, and no amount of new friction material fixes it if the springs behind it are done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAlways Replace Springs With Synchros\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe practical advice worth the most on this page. If you've got the transmission open for synchro work, put fresh springs in at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThey've been cycling and heating alongside everything else for the same number of years and the same number of shifts. On a B-series that's now twenty-five to thirty-five years old, that's a great many shifts, and springs don't look worn even when they've lost meaningful tension.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThey're the cheapest part in the assembly and among the most annoying to have to go back in for. Reusing them behind a fresh set of carbon or brass synchros is how a rebuild ends up feeling only slightly better than it did before.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eSprings Alone, Or The Master Kit?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth deciding before you order.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBuy this set on its own if you've inspected the transmission and your synchros, sleeves, and bearings are genuinely still good. That happens, particularly on a lower mileage car where the springs have simply lost tension with age rather than the whole assembly being worn.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're finding wear in more than one place, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/synchrotech-b-series-master-synchro-rebuild-kit?_pos=5\u0026amp;_sid=75aa0054e\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eB-series master rebuild kit\u003c\/a\u003e includes these springs along with synchros, sleeves, bearings, and seals, and works out cheaper than buying the pieces separately. Given the labor to get in there, most people going this deep want the full kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eMatch Your Transmission Code\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFour versions, and the split is by transmission rather than by car. Check the code on your case rather than going by what the chassis is, especially on a swapped or rebuilt gearbox.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003ePart Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eTransmission\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSP101\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eY80, S80, S4C, S21, Y21 (B16A, B16B, B17A, B18C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSP103\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eS1, Y1 cable (1989-1991 B-series)\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSP105\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eY2, A1, J1 cable (1989-1991 B-series)\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSP107\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eB18A, B18B\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo things worth noting. The \u003cstrong\u003e1989-1991 cable transmissions split two ways\u003c\/strong\u003e, so SP103 and SP105 cover the same years and different gearboxes. And the \u003cstrong\u003eB18A and B18B take a different set\u003c\/strong\u003e than the B18C, so don't assume any B18 spring set works.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHonda and Acura B16, B17, and B18 transmissions. See the table above for the correct set.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eComplete 1-5 spring set.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Grab This Set\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for anyone with the transmission apart doing synchro work, and for the builder who understands a rebuild is only as good as its weakest reused part. Springs are inexpensive, they're a known wear item, and they directly affect whether your new synchros engage the way they should. Check your transmission code, and if you're in there, put them in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e Honda and Acura B16, B17, and B18 transmissions, see the table above. \u003cstrong\u003ePart numbers:\u003c\/strong\u003e SP101, SP103, SP105, SP107. \u003cstrong\u003eCoverage:\u003c\/strong\u003e complete 1-5 set. \u003cstrong\u003eImportant:\u003c\/strong\u003e select by transmission code, not by vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1989 Acura Integra\u003cbr\u003e1990-1993 Acura Integra\u003cbr\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra\u003cbr\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"B16A\/B16B\/B17A\/B18C (Y80\/S80\/S4C\/S21\/Y21)","offer_id":47378437931042,"sku":"SYN-SP101","price":51.98,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"89-91 B Series Cable (S1\/Y1)","offer_id":47378437963810,"sku":"SYN-SP103","price":51.98,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"89-91 B Series Cable (Y2\/A1\/J1)","offer_id":47378437996578,"sku":"SYN-SP105","price":51.98,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B18A\/B18B","offer_id":47378438029346,"sku":"SYN-SP107","price":51.98,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/synchrotech-b-series-synchro-s_ec3n.jpg?v=1788900972"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-transmissions-carbon-synchro-kit-fk8-civic-type-r","title":"Synchrotech Carbon Synchro Kit for FK8 Civic Type R","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAvailable as Two or Four Gear Solutions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with FK8 Civic Type R \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSynchros Only, No Springs or Sleeves Included \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCarbon Material Makes for More Durable Synchro \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech Carbon Synchro Set - 2017-2021 Civic Type R (FK8)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FK8 gearbox is good, and it's also attached to an engine that encourages you to use it. Enough hard shifts and enough track days and the synchros start letting you know. These are Synchrotech's carbon synchros, sold as first and second, third and fourth, or the full 1-4 set, so you can replace what's actually worn rather than everything.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCarbon Only, And That's Right For This Car\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUnlike the older Honda platforms where brass makes sense for a daily driver, this is a carbon-only offering, which suits what an FK8 actually is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSynchrotech's carbon synchros use a full carbon composite lining built on carbon-carbon technology originally developed for aerospace. The material acts as a braking element during engagement, stopping the gear faster than brass can. That means less grind on the high-rpm shifts an FK8 owner is regularly making, and less wear on the sleeves and engagement teeth over time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a car that gets tracked, autocrossed, and driven hard on the road, carbon is the material worth having.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBuy Only What's Worn\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSold in three configurations, and wear on these transmissions is rarely even.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFirst and second (SYN-FK8-1)\u003c\/strong\u003e take the most abuse by a wide margin. Highest torque multiplication, hardest shifts, and the gears you're using on every launch and every corner exit. If your grinding is isolated to the low gears, this is your set.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThird and fourth (SYN-FK8-3)\u003c\/strong\u003e for wear further up the box, which typically shows on cars seeing a lot of track time where you're spending real time in those gears.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFull 1-4 set (SYN-FK8-1-4)\u003c\/strong\u003e for a complete refresh, or when you've inspected and found wear throughout. Given what it costs to get into the transmission, this is often the sensible call even if only two gears are obviously bad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eTriple Cone And Dual Cone\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth knowing what's in there, since it explains why these are split the way they are.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FK8 uses \u003cstrong\u003etriple cone synchros on first and second\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003edual cone on third and fourth\u003c\/strong\u003e. More cones means more friction surface, which is how Honda got the shift quality this car has, and it's also why the two groups are different parts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's the reason you can't buy one set covering everything from one to four as a single design. The 1-4 set is both types packaged together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFirst Through Fourth Only\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth saying plainly so you're not left wondering. Synchrotech covers gears one through four on this transmission. \u003cstrong\u003eThere are no fifth or sixth gear synchros available for the FK8\u003c\/strong\u003e, and no matching hubs, sleeves, or springs at this time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's a limitation of what exists rather than a gap in what we stock. If your wear is in fifth or sixth, or if you find worn hubs or sleeves during inspection, you'll be looking at OEM parts or a different approach for those.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow To Tell Your Synchros Are Done\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA few reliable signs, and one test worth running.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt grinds into one specific gear.\u003c\/strong\u003e Isolated grinding almost always means an isolated problem, and it tells you exactly which set to order.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDownshifts are worse than upshifts.\u003c\/strong\u003e The useful one. On an upshift, revs are falling naturally and the synchro gets help. On a downshift it has to drag the clutch disc and input shaft up to speed by itself. If the car upshifts cleanly but grinds or blocks on a normal downshift, your synchros are worn.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIt's getting worse.\u003c\/strong\u003e Wear starts as slight notchiness and progresses to something you feel clearly in your hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne honest note: grinding can also come from a clutch that isn't fully disengaging or from the wrong transmission fluid. Rule those out first, they're far cheaper than pulling a transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eInspect Your Hubs And Sleeves\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe advice worth the most on this page. Synchros work against your hubs and sleeves, and if those surfaces are worn, new synchros won't fix your shifting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCarbon on a chewed-up hub is no better than brass on a chewed-up hub. So look at your engagement teeth, your sleeves, and your hub splines before you close the case. Sharp and clean means these will transform the shift. Rounded off means you need more than synchros, and finding that out now is far better than after everything's back together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorth Doing Once\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGetting into the transmission is the expensive part of this job, whether you're paying a shop or spending your own weekend. The parts are the cheap half.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo while it's open, inspect everything and replace what's genuinely past spec. If you're finding wear across the box, the full 1-4 set is better value than going back in six months for the gears you skipped.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e2017-2021 Honda Civic Type R (FK8)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTriple cone first and second, dual cone third and fourth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003ePart Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eCoverage\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYN-FK8-1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1st and 2nd\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYN-FK8-3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3rd and 4th\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSYN-FK8-1-4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1st through 4th\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run These\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the FK8 owner whose transmission has started grinding, and for the builder going through a gearbox on a car that's earned it. Track days, autocross, or a car that's simply been driven the way a Type R invites you to drive it. Carbon is the right material for how these cars get used. Inspect properly, order what's actually worn, and get your shifts back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2017-2021 Honda Civic Type R (FK8). \u003cstrong\u003eMaterial:\u003c\/strong\u003e Synchrotech carbon composite. \u003cstrong\u003eConfigurations:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1st\/2nd (SYN-FK8-1), 3rd\/4th (SYN-FK8-3), or full 1st-4th set (SYN-FK8-1-4). \u003cstrong\u003eDesign:\u003c\/strong\u003e triple cone first and second, dual cone third and fourth. \u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e 5th and 6th gear synchros are not available for this transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2017-2021 Honda Civic Type R\u003cbr\u003e2021 Honda Civic Type R Limited Edition\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"1st-4th","offer_id":47456887341090,"sku":"SYN-FK8-1-4","price":299.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"1st\/2nd","offer_id":47456887373858,"sku":"SYN-FK8-1","price":86.63,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"3rd\/4th","offer_id":47456887406626,"sku":"SYN-FK8-3","price":89.63,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/synchrotech-carbon-synchro-kit_fyrp.jpg?v=1788982912"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-b-series-pro-series-1-4-gear-set","title":"Synchrotech B Series Pro Series 1-4 Gear Set for Civic\/Integra","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFour Gear Set Styles Available \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with Integra GS-R\/Type R, EM1, and Del Sol VTEC Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSetups for OE Gearing, Turbo, and All Motor \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1st to 4th Gear Set, 5th is Reused \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech Pro Series 1st-4th Gear Set - B-Series\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you've broken gears, or when the factory ratios are holding back a car making real power, this is the answer. Synchrotech's Pro Series 1-4 gear sets replace first through fourth in a B-series with stronger gears, available in factory ratios or in ratios chosen specifically for turbo and all-motor builds. Four options, and the choice is simpler than it looks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eTwo Questions, Four Options\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWork through it in this order and it's straightforward.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFirst: which transmission do you have?\u003c\/strong\u003e That's fixed by your car, and it determines your 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ratios.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSecond: OE ratios or performance ratios?\u003c\/strong\u003e That's your choice, and it only changes first gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eTransmission\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eOE Gearing\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003ePerformance Gearing\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e94-01 Integra GS-R\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSG-B14OE-GSR\u003cbr\u003e3.23 \/ 1.90 \/ 1.36 \/ 1.03\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSG-B14-GSR (turbo)\u003cbr\u003e3.07 \/ 1.90 \/ 1.36 \/ 1.03\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e99-00 Civic Si and 96-01 USDM Integra Type R\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSG-B14OE-ITR\u003cbr\u003e3.23 \/ 2.10 \/ 1.45 \/ 1.10\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSG-B14-ITR (all motor)\u003cbr\u003e3.07 \/ 2.10 \/ 1.45 \/ 1.10\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNotice what changes and what doesn't. Within each transmission, only first gear differs between the OE and performance versions. The 2-4 ratios stay the same, because those were already right for the application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy A Longer First Gear\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe performance sets run a 3.07 first instead of the factory 3.23, and that's counterintuitive if you expect a performance gear set to be shorter everywhere.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHere's the reasoning. On a car making serious power, whether that's boost or a built all-motor engine, the factory first gear is short enough that you're fighting for traction rather than accelerating. You spin, you shift almost immediately, and first gear does very little useful work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA longer first gives you a better launch. More time in the gear, more of the power actually reaching the road instead of going into wheelspin, and a more usable start to the run. On a drag or high-power car that's worth real time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf your car is closer to stock, the OE ratio sets are the right pick. The factory 3.23 works well when you're not overwhelming the tires, and there's no benefit to a longer first on an engine that can use the short one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eReplaceable Synchro Gear Cones\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the feature worth understanding, and it's genuinely different from how gears normally work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThird and fourth gear are designed with a \u003cstrong\u003ereplaceable synchro gear cone\u003c\/strong\u003e. That means when you damage the engagement teeth on a mis-shift, and eventually you will, you replace that component rather than buying an entire new gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone who's destroyed a gear on a missed shift knows what that saves. It's the difference between a small part and a large one, and on a car that's being raced it's the kind of design decision that pays for itself the first time it happens.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eYou Can Reuse Your Mainshaft And Fifth\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThese sets cover first through fourth, and your factory mainshaft and fifth gears carry over.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat keeps the cost down considerably compared to replacing everything. If your mainshaft is in good shape, there's no reason to replace it just because you're changing gears.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlternatively, the fifth gears can be replaced with an \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/mfactory-b-series-mainshaft-countershaft-brace-cuff\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eMFactory shaft brace\u003c\/a\u003e if you're building for serious power and want the additional support. That's the direction most drag builds go, but it isn't required.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eOne Fitment Exclusion\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRead this if you're running a Type R. The ITR sets fit the \u003cstrong\u003e96-01 USDM Integra Type R\u003c\/strong\u003e and the \u003cstrong\u003e99-00 Civic Si\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThey will \u003cstrong\u003enot\u003c\/strong\u003e fit the 98 spec JDM ITR. If that's what you've got, this isn't the right gear set.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhile You're In There\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInstalling gears means the transmission is fully apart, which is nearly all the labor on this job. Use the access.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInspect your synchros, sleeves, hubs, and bearings while everything is exposed and replace what's past spec. Anything that ran alongside a damaged gear has likely taken debris or abuse, and closing the case up with fresh gears next to worn synchros means doing this again sooner than you'd like.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGS-R sets:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eITR sets:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1999-2000 Honda Civic Si and 1996-2001 USDM Acura Integra Type R\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDoes not fit the 98 spec JDM Integra Type R. Select your transmission and gearing at checkout.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run These\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the builder who's broken gears and wants stronger ones going back in, and for anyone whose power level has outgrown the ratios Honda picked. Turbo car chasing a better launch, all-motor build wanting the right spacing, or a straightforward replacement in factory ratios after a failure. Match your transmission first, decide on first gear second, and close the case up once.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1994-2001 Integra GS-R, or 1999-2000 Civic Si and 1996-2001 USDM Integra Type R. \u003cstrong\u003ePart numbers:\u003c\/strong\u003e SG-B14OE-GSR, SG-B14-GSR, SG-B14OE-ITR, SG-B14-ITR. \u003cstrong\u003eCovers:\u003c\/strong\u003e gears 1 through 4. \u003cstrong\u003eReuses:\u003c\/strong\u003e factory mainshaft and 5th gears, or pair with an MFactory shaft brace. \u003cstrong\u003eFeature:\u003c\/strong\u003e replaceable synchro gear cone on 3rd and 4th. \u003cstrong\u003eDoes not fit:\u003c\/strong\u003e 98 spec JDM Integra Type R.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R\u003cbr\u003e1997-2001 Acura Integra Type R\u003cbr\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"94-01 Integra GS-R \/ OE Gearing","offer_id":47458956083234,"sku":"SYN-SG-B14OE-GSR","price":1099.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"99-00 Civic Si\/97-01 Integra Type R \/ OE Gearing","offer_id":47458956116002,"sku":"SYN-SG-B14OE-ITR","price":1099.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"94-01 Integra GS-R \/ Turbo","offer_id":47458956148770,"sku":"SYN-SG-B14-GSR","price":1154.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"99-00 Civic Si\/97-01 Integra Type R \/ All Motor","offer_id":47458956181538,"sku":"SYN-SG-B14-ITR","price":1154.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/synchrotech-b-series-pro-serie_xz44.jpg?v=1788987293"}],"url":"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/collections\/synchrotech-transmissions.oembed","provider":"Hybrid Racing","version":"1.0","type":"link"}