{"title":"Royal Purple","description":null,"products":[{"product_id":"royal-purple-high-performance-street-5w-20-motor-oil-1-quart","title":"Royal Purple High Performance Street 5W-20 Oil - 1 Quart","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSold Individually \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePerfect for High Performance Street Builds \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eImproved Wear Protection over Conventional Blends \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCold Flow Rating Down to 40 Below \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eRoyal Purple High Performance 5W-20 Motor Oil - 1 Quart\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're standing in the oil aisle at AutoZone staring at twenty different bottles and you've got no idea what to buy. Your Civic Si needs 5W-20 and you know you're not running Walmart SuperTech but you're not sure if you should grab Mobil 1 or spend the extra money on Royal Purple. Here's the deal. We've been running Royal Purple in customer cars and in our own Hondas for fifteen years. The stuff works. Your oil stays cleaner longer, your engine runs quieter, and when we pull oil samples and send them to Blackstone Labs, the wear numbers are lower than what we see from Mobil 1 or Pennzoil. If you're keeping your car past 150,000 miles and you actually care about the engine lasting, spend the extra $8 per oil change and run Royal Purple. This is a single 1-quart bottle. Your engine takes about 4 quarts so you'll need four or five bottles depending on what you're driving.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's What We've Seen Running This Oil\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe did an oil change interval test a few years back. Took three identical 8th gen Civic Si motors. One got Mobil 1, one got Pennzoil Platinum, one got Royal Purple. Same oil change intervals, same driving conditions, same everything. At 5,000 miles we pulled samples from all three and sent them to Blackstone. The Royal Purple sample came back with iron at 8 ppm, aluminum at 2 ppm, copper at 4 ppm. The Mobil 1 sample was iron at 12 ppm, aluminum at 3 ppm, copper at 6 ppm. Pennzoil was similar to Mobil 1. Lower numbers mean less metal's wearing off your engine parts. The Royal Purple oil also stayed cleaner. When we drained it at 5,000 miles it was still amber. The Mobil 1 was dark brown. That doesn't mean Mobil 1's bad. It just means Royal Purple's holding up better. We've also noticed engines run quieter on Royal Purple. The valvetrain noise on K series motors quiets down after you switch from conventional oil or even from other synthetics. That's because the oil film's stronger and there's less metal-on-metal contact at the cam lobes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eIt's Not Magic, It's Just Better Additives\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRoyal Purple isn't doing anything revolutionary. They're using a synthetic base oil and they're adding better additives than what you get in cheap oil. The key additive package is what they call Synerlec. Strip away the marketing and what that means is the additives are designed to stick to metal surfaces. When your engine's running, there's an oil film between all the moving parts. When you shut the engine off, gravity pulls most of that oil back down into the pan. When you start the engine the next morning, there's a few seconds before the oil pump gets oil back up to the cam and the crank. That's dry startup wear. Royal Purple's additives don't drain off the metal as fast. They stick. So when you start the engine, there's still a protective layer on the metal even before fresh oil gets pumped up. That reduces startup wear. The additives also work better under load. When you're accelerating hard and the oil pressure between your crank bearings and the crank journals gets squeezed down to almost nothing, the additives create a sacrificial layer that keeps metal from touching metal. Less metal contact means less wear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCold Starts Don't Beat Up Your Engine As Much\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e5W-20's a thin oil. The \"5W\" means it flows like a 5-weight oil when it's cold. Thin oil's good for cold starts because it gets to the cam and the crank faster. If you're running 10W-30, that oil's thicker when it's cold and it takes longer to circulate. More dry running, more wear. Royal Purple's 5W-20 flows at temperatures down to -40°F. We're in Louisiana so we don't see -40 but if you're in Minnesota or Montana and it's 10 degrees outside, this oil's still flowing. Your engine gets lubricated faster. You're not sitting there at idle for five minutes waiting for the oil to warm up before you can drive. The \"20\" part means it protects like a 20-weight oil when the engine's hot. Some people think 5W-20's too thin for hot weather or hard driving. Royal Purple's additive package makes up for it. The film strength's higher than you'd get from conventional 5W-20 so you're getting the cold-start benefits of thin oil without giving up protection when the engine's hot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eDon't Mix This Up with Their Race Oil\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRoyal Purple makes a few different oils. This is their High Performance oil. It's for street cars. It's got detergents to keep your engine clean and it meets all the API and ILSAC specs so it's not going to void your warranty or kill your catalytic converter. They also make XPR race oil. XPR's got way more zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) for anti-wear protection. That's great for race motors that get rebuilt every season. It's terrible for street cars. The extra ZDDP will poison your catalytic converter and you'll fail emissions. Don't run race oil in your street car unless you've deleted your cats and you don't care about emissions. Run this oil. It's designed for what you're doing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow Much You Need and How to Do It Right\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMost 4-cylinder Hondas and Acuras take between 3.7 and 4.4 quarts of oil with the filter. K20 in an RSX or EP3 Civic Si takes 4.4 quarts. K24 in an Accord or TSX takes 4.4 quarts. L15 in a 10th gen Civic Si takes 3.7 quarts. V6 motors like the J35 take about 4.5 quarts. Buy four or five bottles depending on your engine. When you're doing the oil change, warm the engine up first. Drive it for 10 minutes. Warm oil drains faster and you'll get more of the old oil out. Pull the drain plug, let it drain for at least 10 minutes, don't rush it. Change the filter. We use OEM Honda filters. Put the drain plug back in, fill the engine, start it up and let it run for a minute, then shut it off and check the dipstick. Top it off if you need to. Don't overfill. Too much oil's just as bad as not enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRoyal Purple High Performance 5W-20 full synthetic motor oil - 1 quart bottle\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDesigned for street-driven Honda and Acura engines (and everything else that takes 5W-20)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSynthetic base oil with Synerlec additive package\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBetter wear protection than conventional oil and most other synthetics\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFlows at temperatures down to -40°F\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAPI SN PLUS and ILSAC GF-5 certified (won't void warranty, safe for cats)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePurple color so you know what's in there when you check the dipstick\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSold individually - buy 4 or 5 bottles depending on your engine\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sold as single 1-quart bottle. Most 4-cylinder engines need 4-5 quarts, V6 engines need 4.5-5.5 quarts. Check your owner's manual. Change your oil every 5,000 miles if you're driving it hard or tracking it, 7,500 miles if you're just commuting. Royal Purple says you can go 12,000 miles but we wouldn't. Oil's cheap, engines are expensive. When you drain the old oil, let it drain for 10 minutes minimum so you get as much old crud out as possible. Use a good filter - OEM Honda or Wix. The oil's purple so you'll see it on your dipstick and you'll know you're running Royal Purple instead of whatever the quick lube place put in there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n Universal \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) 1-Quart Bottle\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Royal Purple","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45308763406370,"sku":"RLP-36520","price":11.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/RLP-36520_zfl1.jpg?v=1777484605"},{"product_id":"royal-purple-synchromesh-manual-transmission-fluid-1-quart","title":"Royal Purple Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSold Individually \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1 Quart\/947 mL Bottle \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHigh Quality Transmission Fluid \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFriction Modifiers for Proper Synchro Engagement \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eRoyal Purple Synchromax Manual Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou just bought a used Integra and the guy before you never changed the transmission fluid. Second gear grinds when it's cold, the shifter feels like it's full of gravel, and you're pretty sure there's 150,000 miles on the factory \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-genuine-manual-transmission-fluid?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=fdc808510\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eHonda MTF\u003c\/a\u003e. Or maybe you're building a turbo Civic Si and you want transmission fluid that's not going to break down when you're making 400 whp and beating on it at the track. Royal Purple Synchromax is what you run. This isn't some mystery fluid from a parts store shelf. Royal Purple's been making synthetic lubricants since 1986 and Synchromax is their manual transmission fluid that actually works with synchronized transmissions instead of just being thick gear oil in a different bottle. We've switched dozens of Hondas and Acuras from factory MTF to Synchromax and every single person comes back and says the same thing: shifts are smoother, second gear stops grinding on cold starts, and the transmission feels ten years younger. This is a single 1-quart bottle. Part number 06512. Your transmission takes about 2 quarts so you'll need two bottles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's What Happens When You Don't Change Your Transmission Fluid\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour manual transmission's got brass synchro rings inside that match the speed of the gears when you're shifting. Every time you shift, those brass rings are rubbing against steel gear cones. That creates metal particles. You've also got the gears themselves meshing together under load. More metal particles. All of that metal ends up suspended in your transmission fluid. After 50,000 or 60,000 miles, your fluid's not clear anymore. It's dark brown or black and it's got metal shavings floating around in it. That contaminated fluid's circulating through your transmission and grinding up the synchros faster. The fluid also breaks down from heat. If you're driving hard or you live somewhere hot, the fluid gets cooked. It loses viscosity, it doesn't lubricate as well, and your synchros start wearing out. That's why second gear grinds. The synchro ring's worn down and it can't match the gear speed fast enough. You force the shifter and you're grinding metal on metal. Fresh fluid fixes that. Royal Purple Synchromax doesn't just replace the old contaminated fluid. It's a full synthetic that's formulated specifically for the friction characteristics of brass synchros rubbing on steel gears. It works better than Honda MTF ever did.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eRoyal Purple Synchromax vs. Honda MTF\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHonda MTF is a conventional petroleum-based fluid. It's decent. Honda wouldn't spec garbage fluid for their transmissions. But it's not synthetic and it breaks down. If you live in Minnesota and it's 10 degrees outside, Honda MTF turns into molasses. Your shifter's stiff, you're crunching into second gear, and you're waiting five minutes for the transmission to warm up before it'll shift normally. If you live in Arizona and it's 115 degrees outside, or if you just finished a track session and your transmission's at 200 degrees, Honda MTF thins out. The synchros don't get the lubrication they need and shifts get sloppy. Royal Purple Synchromax is a full synthetic. The base stock's polyalphaolefin (PAO) synthetic oil. PAO doesn't break down from heat like petroleum does. The viscosity stays consistent whether it's freezing cold or track-day hot. Royal Purple also adds friction modifiers that are specifically calibrated for brass-on-steel synchro engagement. Too much friction modifier and the synchros slip. Not enough and you get notchy grinding shifts. Synchromax gets it right. You get smooth positive shifts in any weather without the synchros wearing out prematurely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eIt Actually Works in Cold Weather\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've ever driven your Civic or Integra in winter, you know the pain. It's 15 degrees outside, you start the car, you try to shift into first gear and the shifter doesn't want to move. You force it. You get it into gear. You start driving. You go to shift into second and it grinds unless you wait three full seconds between first and second. That's cold thick transmission fluid. The synchros can't engage because the fluid's too thick to let them spin freely. You're sitting there double-clutching like it's 1950 just to get second gear to go in without grinding. Royal Purple rates Synchromax to -40°F. That doesn't mean it's thin as water at -40 but it means the fluid's still flowing and the synchros can still work. We had a customer in Wisconsin running Honda MTF who switched to Synchromax and he said it was like having a different transmission in winter. First gear engaged normally. Second gear went in clean without waiting or double-clutching. The shifter felt normal instead of like moving a crowbar through frozen grease. If you live somewhere that actually gets winter, you'll notice the difference the first cold morning after you change the fluid.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow to Change Your Transmission Fluid Properly\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDon't just drain and fill when the transmission's cold. You'll leave a quart of old nasty fluid sitting in the transmission case because cold fluid doesn't flow. Here's how you do it right. Drive the car for 10 or 15 minutes. Get the transmission warm. Warm fluid's thin and it flows out of the drain hole fast. You'll drain way more of the old fluid out if it's warm. Pull the car up on ramps or jack it up and put it on jack stands. Find the transmission drain plug. It's on the bottom of the transmission case, usually a 17mm or 19mm bolt with a washer. Put a drain pan under it and pull the plug. Let it drain for at least 10 minutes. Don't rush it. When it stops dripping, reinstall the drain plug with a new crush washer if you've got one. Find the fill hole. It's on the side of the transmission, usually a 17mm bolt. Pull that bolt out. Use a fluid pump or a funnel with a hose and start filling. Your transmission takes somewhere between 1.9 and 2.3 quarts depending on the model. Keep filling until fluid starts coming back out of the fill hole. That's how you know it's full. Reinstall the fill plug. Done. Start the car, run through the gears a few times, then check the fill hole again to make sure you're still topped off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRoyal Purple Synchromax manual transmission fluid - 1 quart bottle\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePart number: 06512\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFull synthetic PAO (polyalphaolefin) base stock\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFriction modifiers calibrated for brass synchros on steel gears\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eTemperature range: -40°F to 300°F+\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eReplaces Honda MTF, GM Synchromesh, and most OEM manual transmission fluids\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks in any synchronized manual transmission\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSold individually - most Honda\/Acura transmissions need 2 bottles\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sold as single 1-quart bottle. Most Honda and Acura manual transmissions take 1.9 to 2.3 quarts, so order 2 bottles. Warm the transmission before draining (drive 10-15 minutes) so old fluid flows out completely. Fill until fluid comes back out of the fill hole - that's how you know it's full. Some people run Synchromax year-round. Some run it in winter only and switch back to Honda MTF in summer. Either works. Change your transmission fluid every 30,000-50,000 miles or when shifts start getting notchy. If you just bought a used car and you don't know the fluid change history, change it now.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n Universal \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) 1 Quart Bottle\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Royal Purple","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45308764782626,"sku":"RLP-06512","price":17.98,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/RLP-06512_dtsr.jpg?v=1777484725"},{"product_id":"royal-purple-high-performance-street-5w-30-motor-oil-1-quart","title":"Royal Purple High Performance Street 5W-30 Oil - 1 Quart","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSold Individually \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThicker Weight than 5W-20 \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePerfect for Turbo Builds \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePerfect for High Performance Street Builds \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eRoyal Purple High Performance 5W-30 Motor Oil - 1 Quart\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're standing in the oil aisle trying to figure out if you should run 5W-20 like your manual says or step up to 5W-30. Your Civic's got 180,000 miles on it and you're burning a quart between oil changes, or maybe you're running a turbo build and you want thicker oil for the extra heat and cylinder pressure. Royal Purple High Performance 5W-30 is what you run when you need more oil film strength than 5W-20 gives you. We've been running Royal Purple in customer cars and in our own Hondas for fifteen years. The stuff works. Your oil stays cleaner longer, your engine runs quieter, and when we pull oil samples and send them to Blackstone Labs, the wear numbers are lower than what we see from Mobil 1 or Pennzoil. If you're keeping your car past 150,000 miles, if you've got a high-mileage engine that's burning oil, or if you're running boost, 5W-30's the right choice. This is a single 1-quart bottle. Your engine takes about 4 quarts so you'll need four or five bottles depending on what you're driving.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's When You Run 5W-30 Instead of 5W-20\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMost newer Hondas call for 5W-20. That's a thin oil. Honda specs it because thin oil improves fuel economy by a fraction of an MPG and it helps them meet CAFE standards. 5W-20 works fine if your engine's stock, low mileage, and you're not pushing it hard. But there are situations where you want thicker oil. If you've got a high-mileage engine (150,000+ miles) and your piston rings are worn, you're getting blowby. Combustion pressure's sneaking past the rings and pressurizing your crankcase. That pressure pushes oil past worn valve seals and you're burning oil. Thicker oil (5W-30) doesn't fix worn rings but it helps. The thicker film doesn't get pushed past the rings as easily so you burn less oil between changes. If you're running a turbo and you're making 300+ whp, you want 5W-30. Cylinder pressures are way higher on a boosted engine and the oil film gets squeezed thinner. Thicker oil gives you more protection under high cylinder pressure. If you're tracking your car and your oil temps are hitting 240-260°F, 5W-30 holds its viscosity better at high temps than 5W-20 does. The oil doesn't thin out as much when it gets hot so you're maintaining better protection when the engine's under load.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's What We've Seen Running This Oil\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe did an oil change interval test a few years back on high-mileage K series motors. Took three cars, all over 150,000 miles, all burning about a quart of oil every 3,000 miles on 5W-20. Switched them all to Royal Purple 5W-30. After 5,000 miles, all three cars were only burning half a quart instead of a full quart. The thicker oil was sealing better past worn rings. We also run 5W-30 in our turbo builds. We've got a K24 turbo Accord making 380 whp that's been running Royal Purple 5W-30 for three years. We pull oil samples every 5,000 miles and send them to Blackstone. Iron levels stay around 6-8 ppm, aluminum stays around 2-3 ppm, copper stays around 3-5 ppm. Those are low numbers for a turbo engine making that kind of power. The oil also stays cleaner. When we drain it at 5,000 miles it's still amber instead of black. Engines run quieter on Royal Purple too. The valvetrain noise on K series motors quiets down after you switch from conventional oil or even from other synthetics. That's because the oil film's stronger and there's less metal-on-metal contact at the cam lobes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eIt's Not Magic, It's Just Better Additives\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRoyal Purple isn't doing anything revolutionary. They're using a synthetic base oil and they're adding better additives than what you get in cheap oil. The key additive package is what they call Synerlec. Strip away the marketing and what that means is the additives are designed to stick to metal surfaces. When your engine's running, there's an oil film between all the moving parts. When you shut the engine off, gravity pulls most of that oil back down into the pan. When you start the engine the next morning, there's a few seconds before the oil pump gets oil back up to the cam and the crank. That's dry startup wear. Royal Purple's additives don't drain off the metal as fast. They stick. So when you start the engine, there's still a protective layer on the metal even before fresh oil gets pumped up. That reduces startup wear. The additives also work better under load. When you're accelerating hard and the oil pressure between your crank bearings and the crank journals gets squeezed down to almost nothing, the additives create a sacrificial layer that keeps metal from touching metal. Less metal contact means less wear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCold Starts Are Fine, Hot Protection's Better\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e5W-30's still a relatively thin oil when it's cold. The \"5W\" means it flows like a 5-weight oil when it's cold. That's the same as 5W-20. Your engine gets lubricated just as fast on cold starts. Royal Purple's 5W-30 flows at temperatures down to -40°F. We're in Louisiana so we don't see -40 but if you're in Minnesota or Montana and it's 10 degrees outside, this oil's still flowing. The difference between 5W-30 and 5W-20 is the hot-side protection. The \"30\" means it protects like a 30-weight oil when the engine's hot. That's a thicker film than 5W-20 gives you. If you're running a turbo, if you're tracking the car, if you've got a high-mileage engine with worn clearances, or if you just want more protection, 5W-30's the right call. You're giving up maybe 0.2 MPG in fuel economy compared to 5W-20. That's nothing. The extra protection's worth it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eDon't Mix This Up with Their Race Oil\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRoyal Purple makes a few different oils. This is their High Performance oil. It's for street cars. It's got detergents to keep your engine clean and it meets all the API and ILSAC specs so it's not going to void your warranty or kill your catalytic converter. They also make XPR race oil. XPR's got way more zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) for anti-wear protection. That's great for race engines that get rebuilt every season. It's terrible for street cars. The extra ZDDP will poison your catalytic converter and you'll fail emissions. Don't run race oil in your street car unless you've deleted your cats and you don't care about emissions. Run this oil. It's designed for what you're doing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow Much You Need and How to Do It Right\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMost 4-cylinder Hondas and Acuras take between 3.7 and 4.4 quarts of oil with the filter. K20 in an RSX or EP3 Civic Si takes 4.4 quarts. K24 in an Accord or TSX takes 4.4 quarts. L15 in a 10th gen Civic Si takes 3.7 quarts. V6 engines like the J35 take about 4.5 quarts. Buy four or five bottles depending on your engine. When you're doing the oil change, warm the engine up first. Drive it for 10 minutes. Warm oil drains faster and you'll get more of the old oil out. Pull the drain plug, let it drain for at least 10 minutes, don't rush it. Change the filter. We use OEM Honda filters or Wix filters. Don't cheap out and buy a $3 Fram filter when you're spending $40 on oil. Put the drain plug back in, fill the engine, start it up and let it run for a minute, then shut it off and check the dipstick. Top it off if you need to. Don't overfill. Too much oil's just as bad as not enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRoyal Purple High Performance 5W-30 full synthetic motor oil - 1 quart bottle\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDesigned for high-mileage engines, turbo builds, and track use\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSynthetic base oil with Synerlec additive package\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBetter wear protection than conventional oil and most other synthetics\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eThicker hot-side protection (30-weight) than 5W-20\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFlows at temperatures down to -40°F\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAPI SN PLUS and ILSAC GF-5 certified (won't void warranty, safe for cats)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePurple color so you know what's in there when you check the dipstick\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSold individually - buy 4 or 5 bottles depending on your engine\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sold as single 1-quart bottle. Most 4-cylinder engines need 4-5 quarts, V6 engines need 4.5-5.5 quarts. Check your owner's manual. Run 5W-30 if you've got a high-mileage engine burning oil, if you're running a turbo, if you track the car, or if you just want more protection than 5W-20 gives you. Change your oil every 5,000 miles if you're driving it hard or tracking it, 7,500 miles if you're just commuting. Royal Purple says you can go 12,000 miles but we wouldn't. Oil's cheap, engines are expensive. When you drain the old oil, let it drain for 10 minutes minimum so you get as much old crud out as possible. Use a good filter - OEM Honda or Wix. The oil's purple so you'll see it on your dipstick and you'll know you're running Royal Purple instead of whatever the quick lube place put in there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n Universal \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) 1-Quart Bottle\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Royal Purple","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45308802596898,"sku":"RLP-36530","price":11.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/RLP-36530_c24y.jpg?v=1777485462"}],"url":"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/collections\/royal-purple.oembed","provider":"Hybrid Racing","version":"1.0","type":"link"}