{"title":"Gears\/LSD","description":"","products":[{"product_id":"dragcartel-transfer-cover-billet-awd-kseries","title":"Drag Cartel Replacement Billet K Series AWD Transfer Case","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePerfect for Serious AWD Setups \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBillet Aluminum Construction \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDirect Replacement for Cast OE Transfer Case \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDesigned for Extreme Duty Applications \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eDrag Cartel Billet K Series AWD Transfer Case\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're building an AWD K series for serious power and you already know the stock transfer case is going to blow up. It's not a question of if. It's a question of when. The stock CR-V transfer case is cast aluminum. It's weak. Honda built it for a grocery-getter making 160 hp. You're making 800 whp. The math doesn't work. We've seen stock transfer cases crack at 300 whp. We've seen them split in half at 500 whp. We've seen them explode at the track and dump all the gear oil on the ground while the driver's sitting there wondering what just happened. Drag Cartel's billet transfer case eliminates the failure point. It's machined from a solid block of 8620 steel. No casting. No weak spots. No porosity. Just a chunk of aerospace-grade steel that's been CNC'd on a 5-axis mill into a transfer case that'll handle 1500 hp without blinking. This is what you run when you're done breaking stock parts and you're ready to build something that actually survives.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eThe Stock Cast Aluminum Case Is a Ticking Time Bomb\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHere's what happens to the stock transfer case. You're making power. You're launching hard. The aluminum housing's flexing. You can't see it but it's happening. Every hard launch, every high-RPM shift, every time you're on the throttle hard in third gear pulling through the gears, the case is flexing and the cracks are starting. They start small. Hairline cracks around the bearing bores. Hairline cracks around the mounting points. You don't know they're there. Then one day you're at the track or you're on a pull and the crack opens up all the way. The case splits. Gear oil's everywhere. Your transfer case is done. Your day's done. Your event's done. That's the reality of running a stock cast aluminum transfer case on a high-horsepower AWD build. It's not strong enough. The K series transfer case is stronger than the old B series case but it's still not strong enough for serious power. We've built setups that made it to 600 whp on the stock case. We've also seen setups blow the case at 350 whp. It depends on how hard you're driving it and how lucky you are. Why gamble? Drag Cartel's billet case is the solution. It's machined from 8620 steel. Same material they use for billet bellhousings. Same material they use for billet transmission cases. It doesn't flex. It doesn't crack. It handles the loads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eMachined from a Solid Block of 8620 Steel\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrag Cartel's not casting this case. They're not taking a casting and cleaning it up. They're starting with a solid block of aerospace-grade 8620 billet steel and they're machining the entire case on a 5-axis CNC mill. Every bearing bore's machined to tight tolerances. Every mounting surface is flat and square. Every bolt hole's drilled on-center. The result is a transfer case housing that fits like OEM but performs like a race part. The billet construction means there's no voids. No porosity. No inclusions. The case is solid steel all the way through. When you're dumping the clutch at 7000 RPM with 1200 whp on tap, the transfer case housing's taking massive shock loads. Cast aluminum can't handle it. It flexes. It cracks. It fails. Drag Cartel's billet 8620 steel case handles it without moving. The rigidity's on a completely different level. You're not worrying about the case anymore. You're worrying about other parts of the car because the transfer case is the last thing that's going to break.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBuild It with PPG Internals and Never Think About It Again\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMost people buying Drag Cartel's billet case are pairing it with PPG's billet transfer case internals. That's PPG hypoid gears, PPG transfer shaft, PPG transfer gears. All billet. All built for extreme duty. That's the combo that's running in the 8-second and 9-second AWD drag cars. Drag Cartel case with PPG guts. You can run the Drag Cartel case with stock internals if you want but here's the reality. If you're making enough power to crack a stock transfer case housing, you're making enough power to strip the stock gears and snap the stock shaft. Upgrade the whole system. Do it once. Do it right. The Drag Cartel billet case with PPG internals is a system that'll handle 1500 hp. You're not coming back to this. You're not replacing parts. You're running this setup for years and it's just working.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eThis Isn't a Bolt-On Part - It's a Bare Housing That Requires Assembly\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're not getting a complete transfer case. You're getting a bare billet housing. That means you're sourcing all the internals. Hypoid gears, transfer shaft, transfer gears, bearings, seals, shims, everything. Then you're assembling it. That means you're setting backlash. You're setting preload. You're checking contact patterns on the gears. You're shimming everything to spec. If you've never built a transfer case before, this isn't the time to learn. Pay someone who's done it. The setup has to be right. The backlash has to be between 0.05mm and 0.10mm. The preload on the shafts has to be set correctly. The contact patch on the hypoid gears has to be centered on the tooth face. If any of that's wrong, the gears will whine, they'll wear, and they'll fail. We've seen people assemble transfer cases wrong and destroy $3000 worth of PPG gears in 100 miles because the backlash was off. Don't be that guy. If you're not comfortable with this level of assembly work, find a builder who is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDrag Cartel billet K series AWD transfer case housing (bare case only)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMachined from aerospace-grade billet 8620 steel (same material as billet bellhousings and transmission cases)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e5-axis CNC machining (tight tolerances on bearing bores and mounting surfaces)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNo casting, no voids, no porosity (solid billet construction)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDesigned for 1500 hp extreme duty applications\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDirect replacement for stock CR-V\/Element cast aluminum transfer case housing\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks with PPG billet transfer case internals or stock internals\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eEliminates the stock cast aluminum case failure point\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMade by Drag Cartel\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Builds\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V AWD K series transmission (5-speed manual)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element AWD K series transmission (5-speed manual)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAWD K series swaps using CR-V or Element transmissions\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Bare housing only - internals NOT included (hypoid gears, transfer shaft, transfer gears, bearings, seals, shims sold separately). Requires complete assembly with proper shimming and preload setting. Professional assembly highly recommended. Stock cast aluminum case cracks at 300-600 whp - Drag Cartel billet 8620 steel case handles 1500 hp. Machined from solid billet on 5-axis CNC mill. Works with PPG internals (hypoid gears HO-K4GAWD-Spider-GA, transfer shaft HO-K4GDB-1258, transfer gears HO-K4GAWD-RWD-GA). Most builders pair with complete PPG internals. Direct replacement for stock transfer case. Made by Drag Cartel. Fits 2002-2006 CR-V and 2003-2011 Element AWD transmissions. Race application only.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2011 Element \u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Transfer Case\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Drag Cartel Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":41348400873506,"sku":"DCR-DC-AWD-K-CVR","price":1049.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/DCR-DC-AWD-K-CVR_n1ug.jpg?v=1778348654"},{"product_id":"dragcartel-synchromesh-gear-kit-1-5-fk8-typer","title":"Drag Cartel PPG Synchro Mesh FK8 Civic Type R Transmission Gear Set","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHigh Quality Billet Construction \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePrecision Machining \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIncreased Strength and Durability \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eIncludes Replacement 1st through 5th Gears \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e  \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#TechnicalData\"\u003eTechnical Data\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDrag Cartel PPG Synchro Mesh FK8 Civic Type R Transmission Gear Sets are extreme performance kits designed to improve durability and maximize the performance of an FK8 gearbox.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\u003cdiv\u003eIn top-tier motorsport, where every ounce, millisecond, and millimeter matters, if you want to be competitive, only high-quality parts will allow you to gain big power and maximize the potential of the build in a predictable and reliable fashion.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003eIt is manufactured from high-quality billet alloys, and precision machined to extreme tolerances to ensure the quality of the end product. Featuring PPG Traditional Straight Cut 1st Gear For Additional Strength \u0026amp; Helical 2nd, 3rd \u0026amp; 4th, \u0026amp; 5th Gear for ultimate performance. Utilizes Stock 6th Gear \u0026amp; Various OEM Final Drive Ratios.  \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2017-2021 Honda Civic Type R \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\u003cli id=\"TechnicalData\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003eRatios:• 2.917 \/ 1.938 \/ 1.364 \/ 1.00 \/ 0.852\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePPG 1-5 Synchromesh Gear Kit\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Drag Cartel Racing","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":41348402446370,"sku":"PPG-BUN-01-01","price":7649.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/PPG-BUN-01-01_1.jpg?v=1785868273"},{"product_id":"rv6-performance-fk8-upgraded-helical-4th-gear","title":"RV6 Performance Upgraded Helical 4th Gear for FK8 Type R","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFEA Design \u0026amp; Optimization \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eREM Polished \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFully Machined Billet \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCase Hardened For Strength \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e  \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#TechnicalData\"\u003eTechnical Data\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"product-description\"\u003e\n    \u003ch3\u003eRV6 Performance Upgraded Helical 4th Gear for FK8 Type R\u003c\/h3\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eHarness every ounce of K20C1 power without fearing the shift into the notorious weak spot—this RV6 Performance upgraded helical 4th gear for FK8 Type R replaces the factory cog with a race-proven, torque-hungry alternative built to thrive under 700+ whp drag launches, road-course heat cycles, and daily-driver abuse alike.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n    \n    \u003ch4\u003eWhy it matters\u003c\/h4\u003e\n    \u003cul\u003e\n        \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTrack-bred strength\u003c\/strong\u003e – Three years of endurance-race development yielded a lower tooth count, enlarged tooth profile, and wider contact patch that disperse shock loads and multiply torque capacity far beyond OEM limits.\u003c\/li\u003e\n        \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eQuiet, OE-like operation\u003c\/strong\u003e – Precision-cut helical geometry keeps cabin noise civil while maintaining smooth, crisp engagement.\u003c\/li\u003e\n        \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDirect drop-in fit\u003c\/strong\u003e – Machined from aerospace-grade steel and hard-finished to OE tolerances, it mates seamlessly with the stock countershaft and synchro hub—no guessing, no machining.\u003c\/li\u003e\n        \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFuture-proof your build\u003c\/strong\u003e – Whether you’re adding bigger turbos, ethanol blends, or full bolt-ons, this 4th gear eliminates the transmission failure that sidelines most high-power FK8s, so you can keep climbing the dyno chart with confidence.\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n    \n    \u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003e2017-2021 Honda Civic Type R (FK8 chassis) 6-speed manual transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n    \u003ch4\u003eInstallation Snapshot\u003c\/h4\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eAdvanced DIY or professional; 3-4 hrs with trans out; includes 4th gear only (reuse OEM synchro \u0026amp; hardware); no tuning or case cutting required.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2017-2021 Honda Civic Type-R   \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\u003cli id=\"TechnicalData\"\u003e\nRatio 1.176:1 (STOCK 1.125:1)  \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(2) Gears\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"RV6 Performance","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":42245399576610,"sku":"RV6-UTG-01-01","price":599.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/RV6-UTG-01-01_3crop_d074631a-7311-4730-aafe-c9efc1a02bdb.jpg?v=1752684080"},{"product_id":"wavetrac-honda-acura-k-series-limited-slip-differential","title":"Wavetrac Limited Slip Differential for Civic Si\/RSX\/TSX","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLimited Lifetime Warranty \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with Manual Transmissions Only \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eImproves Grip in Low Traction Conditions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHelical Gear Differential \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e  \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#InstallGuide\"\u003eInstall Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWavetrac Limited Slip Differential - K-Series\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone who's driven a front-drive Honda hard knows the feeling. You get on the power out of a corner, the inside front tire unloads, and suddenly all your torque is going to the wheel that isn't touching anything. An open differential is doing exactly what it was designed to do, and it's costing you the exit every single time. A Wavetrac fixes that, and it does it with a design feature no other helical diff has.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat Makes A Wavetrac Different\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHere's the honest version, because this gets oversold everywhere else. Wavetrac is a helical gear torque-biasing differential, and so are Quaife, Torsen, and MFactory. They all work well. What separates the Wavetrac is a patented cam device that addresses the one weakness every helical diff shares.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStandard helical differentials rely on axle load to generate their bias. Lift a wheel completely, hit a rise mid-corner, get a tire fully unloaded, and torque bias drops toward zero. In that moment the diff behaves like an open unit and you go nowhere. Wavetrac's cam creates internal load during zero axle load conditions, so it keeps sending drive to the wheel that still has grip instead of giving up. If you autocross, run track days, or drive roads with real elevation change, that's the exact scenario where you feel it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBuilt To Survive Real Power\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe internals are 9310 alloy steel gears in case-hardened steel bodies, held together with ARP fasteners. That's the same material spec you'd expect in a serious gearset, and it's why these hold up behind built K-series engines rather than becoming the next weak link. Everything is designed, developed, and manufactured in the USA by Autotech Driveline.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThey also back it with a transferable limited lifetime warranty, which is worth noting on a part that lives inside your transmission. Transferable matters more than people think, since it follows the car if you sell it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWavetrac Versus Quaife, Torsen And MFactory\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFair question, and it's the one most people are actually asking. All four are quality helical torque-biasing differentials and any of them will transform how your car puts power down compared to an open diff. They're all quiet, they all work without maintenance, and none of them require the friction plate service a clutch-type LSD does.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Wavetrac's argument is the zero-load behavior. If you're lifting a wheel, and front-drive Hondas on stiff suspension do this regularly, that cam device is doing something the others don't. If your car stays planted and you're mostly chasing traction on corner exit, honestly any of these will serve you well. Buy the Wavetrac for the unloaded-wheel case specifically.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePlan The Install\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn LSD swap means opening the transmission, so this isn't a driveway afternoon unless you've done it before. The good news is you'll already be in there if you're doing synchros, a clutch, or a rebuild, and combining the jobs saves you doing the same labor twice. We've put together a \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/guides.hybrid-racing.com\/Guide\/LSD+Install+on+K-Series+Transmission\/91\"\u003efull LSD install guide for K-series transmissions\u003c\/a\u003e if you want to see what's involved before you commit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing worth planning for: check your differential bearings while you're in there and replace them if there's any doubt. New diff, old bearings is a bad combination and you don't want to revisit it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run A Wavetrac\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the K-series owner who's added power and found out the chassis can't use it. Autocross, track days, canyon roads, or a street car that just spins an inside tire every time you get on it out of a corner. It's one of the few modifications that makes a car faster without adding a single horsepower, because it lets you actually use what you already have. If you're already going into the transmission for other work, this is the moment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eType:\u003c\/strong\u003e helical gear torque-biasing limited slip differential with patented zero-load cam device. \u003cstrong\u003eConstruction:\u003c\/strong\u003e 9310 alloy steel gears, case-hardened steel bodies, ARP fasteners. \u003cstrong\u003eMade by:\u003c\/strong\u003e Autotech Driveline, designed and manufactured in the USA. \u003cstrong\u003eWarranty:\u003c\/strong\u003e transferable limited lifetime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2007-2010 Acura CSX Type S\u003cbr\u003e2001-2006 Acura RSX (Base, Type-S, Type-R)\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003cbr\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord (K24)\u003cbr\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si\/Type-R\u003cbr\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\/Type R (FN2\/FD2)\u003cbr\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003cbr\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e(1) Limited Slip Differential\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003cli id=\"InstallGuide\"\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.scribd.com\/document\/83551342\/LSD-Install-Guide#fullscreen=1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eWavetrac LSD Installation Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Wavetrac","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":42557412507682,"sku":"WAV-LSD-01-05","price":885.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/WAV-LSD-01-05_9crop.jpg?v=1786476369"},{"product_id":"oem-honda-k20a2-k20a3-k20z3-k24a4-k24a8-countershaft-low-gear-transmission-gear","title":"Honda K Series Countershaft Low Gear 23421-PPP-000","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFits K20A2\/A3\/Z1 and K24A2\/A4\/A8 Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine Honda Product \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eReplaces Countershaft Gear in Transmission \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMaintenance Item for Difficulty Driving at Low Speeds \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHonda K Series Countershaft Low Gear - Genuine OEM (23421-PPP-000)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Does your K-series fight you every time you grab first? Grinding on the way in, popping back out, or\n  just feeling rough and notchy when you're trying to crawl through a parking lot? That's a worn low gear\n  talking, and this is what shuts it up. Honda 23421-PPP-000 is the genuine countershaft low gear, your\n  first gear on the countershaft side of the box. It's the gear that catches all the abuse, every launch,\n  every red light, every slow crawl runs straight through it, so it's almost always the first one to give\n  out. Drop a fresh one in and that low-speed clunkiness you've been putting up with finally goes away.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why First Gear's Always The One That Goes\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Think about what first gear actually does for a second. It's the one yanking your car off the line from\n  a dead stop, soaking up every clutch drop, taking the whole load of getting all that weight rolling.\n  Your other gears? They're just cruising. First gear's the one down in the trenches. So when your\n  transmission only acts up at low speed, grinding into first, fighting you on the engagement, feeling\n  notchy at a crawl, this is usually your culprit. The teeth wear, the engagement edges round off, and you\n  feel every bit of it right where this gear does its work. Swap it out and you get that crisp,\n  dropped-right-into-gear feel back.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eIf You're Going In, Go In Once\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Real talk: the gear's cheap, but getting to it sure isn't. Your transmission's got to come all the way\n  out and get split open to reach this thing, so you really don't want to be doing that twice. If you're\n  already in there, rebuilding, chasing down a grind, or freshening up a tired high-mile box, now's the\n  time. And while you've got it apart, give your synchros, your shift forks, and the matching mainshaft\n  gear a good look, because a worn low gear rarely shows up alone. Knock it all out in one go and you're\n  done, not back under the car next month wishing you'd done it right the first time.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eDon't Cheap Out On The Gear Itself\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  This is the spot where a bargain part really bites you. A gear has to mesh dead-on with everything else\n  spinning in your transmission, and one that's even a hair off on tooth shape or hardness won't run clean\n  and won't last. This is the real Honda piece, cut and hardened exactly how it needs to be, so it drops\n  right into your gear set and just works. You're already going through the trouble of pulling a whole\n  transmission, so the last thing you want is to tear back into it because you tried to save a few bucks\n  on the one part doing the hardest work in there.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eGenuine Honda countershaft low gear (23421-PPP-000)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFirst gear on the countershaft for K20 and K24 transmissions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDirect OEM replacement, cut and hardened to factory spec\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAddresses grinding, notchiness, and rough engagement at low speed\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBest replaced during a transmission rebuild or refresh\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSold individually\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Cars\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006-2011 Acura CSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Note: Genuine Honda countershaft low gear, part number 23421-PPP-000, the first gear on the countershaft\n  for K20 and K24 manual transmissions, including the K20A2, K20A3, K20Z1, K20Z3, K24A2, K24A4, and\n  K24A8. Cut and hardened to factory specification for correct mesh and durability. A worn low gear can\n  cause grinding, notchiness, and rough engagement at low speed, so it's a common item to replace during\n  a transmission rebuild or refresh. Installation requires removing and disassembling the transmission,\n  professional installation recommended. Sold individually. Fits the 2006-2011 Acura CSX, 2002-2006 Acura\n  RSX, 2004-2008 Acura TSX, 2003-2007 Honda Accord, and 2006-2011 Honda Civic Si. One gear per order.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2006-2011 Acura CSX\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX\u003cdiv\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Countershaft Low Gear\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43049404661794,"sku":"OHA-23421-PPP-000","price":326.39,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/OvHNUHV-ZncDUjPAsHY_007_Product_processed.png?v=1790606187"},{"product_id":"ppg-4-speed-honda-k-series-dog-box-gear-set","title":"PPG 4 Speed Dog Box for Honda K Series","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGear Ratios for NA and Turbo Builds \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSupports Up to 1200 HP \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e4 Speed Dog Box Gear Set \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with K Series Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e  \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#TechnicalData\"\u003eTechnical Data\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePPG 4-Speed Dog Box Gear Set for Honda K-Series Transmissions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nUnleash true race-ready performance with the PPG 4-Speed Dog Box Gear Set, engineered specifically for Honda K-Series transmissions. Built for drivers who demand lightning-fast shifts, extreme durability, and unmatched power handling, this gear set is a serious upgrade for any high-performance K-Series build. Whether you're pushing an all-motor setup or a turbocharged monster, this gearbox delivers the responsiveness and strength needed for competitive drag racing, roll racing, and circuit use.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nThe PPG Dog Box features straight-cut gears with full dog engagement, allowing rapid clutchless shifting and improved power transfer. With two optimized ratio packages—All Motor and Turbo—you can tailor your transmission to match your engine’s powerband and racing goals. Rated for an incredible 1200 horsepower, this gear set is built to withstand extreme torque, high RPM abuse, and the harshest motorsport conditions.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAvailable Gear Ratios\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll Motor Ratios\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1st Gear: 2.83\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2nd Gear: 1.93\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e3rd Gear: 1.50\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e4th Gear: 1.15\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTurbo Ratios\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1st Gear: 2.61\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2nd Gear: 1.61\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e3rd Gear: 1.15\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e4th Gear: 0.909\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eOptional Upgrades\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\nThis gear set is sold without a 5th gear center brace and does not include a final drive gear. If you need either of these components, please reach out to our customer service team at  \n\u003ca href=\"mailto:support@hybrid-racing.com\"\u003esupport@hybrid-racing.com\u003c\/a\u003e.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCenter Brace \/ 5th Gear Cuff (Optional)\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\nEnhances transmission strength and helps prevent case flex in high-horsepower applications.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePPG Final Drive Options (Optional)\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e4.25\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e4.40\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e4.50\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e4.61\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e4.76\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBuilt for Extreme Power\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\nWith a staggering 1200hp rating, this PPG 4-Speed Dog Box Gear Set is engineered for the most demanding builds. Straight-cut gears reduce parasitic loss, dog engagement improves shift speed, and the simplified 4-speed layout maximizes acceleration by keeping your engine in the ideal powerband.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePerfect for High-Performance K-Series Builds\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\nIf you're looking to transform your Honda K-Series drivetrain into a fully race-capable transmission, the PPG 4-Speed Dog Box Gear Set offers the strength, speed, and reliability needed to compete at the highest level. Perfect for K20 and K24 engine platforms, this gear set is a must-have upgrade for serious racers who want to extract every last bit of performance from their Honda drivetrain.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2002-2006 Acura RSX\u003cdiv\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\u003cli id=\"TechnicalData\"\u003e\n \n    Gear Type\n    Straight-Cut Dog Engagement \u003cdiv\u003eAll Motor Ratios\n    1st: 2.83 • 2nd: 1.93 • 3rd: 1.50 • 4th: 1.15 \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003eTurbo Ratios\n    1st: 2.61 • 2nd: 1.61 • 3rd: 1.15 • 4th: 0.909 \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003eFinal Drive Options (Optional)\n    4.25 • 4.40 • 4.50 • 4.61 • 4.76 \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003eHorsepower Rating\n    Up to 1200 HP\n  \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"PPG","offers":[{"title":"NA (2.83 \/ 1.93 \/ 1.50 \/ 1.15)","offer_id":44603266334754,"sku":"PPG-K5S4GD-14-GA-NA","price":5669.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Turbo (2.615 \/ 1.611 \/ 1.15 \/ 0.909)","offer_id":44603266367522,"sku":"PPG-K5S4GD-14-GA-FI","price":5699.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/ppg-4-speed-dog-box-for-honda_7vc2.jpg?v=1764783460"},{"product_id":"ppg-1-4-synchro-mesh-gear-kit-honda-k-series","title":"PPG 1-4 Synchro Mesh Gear Kit for Honda K Series","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAvailable in Helical or Straight Cut Gears \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFits Honda K Series Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOptional Final Drives \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1-4 Gear Set \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e  \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#TechnicalData\"\u003eTechnical Data\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePPG 1–4 Synchro Mesh Gear Kit for Honda K-Series Transmissions\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nUpgrade the strength and consistency of your K-Series drivetrain with the \nPPG 1–4 Synchro Mesh Gear Kit. Designed for drivers who want a noticeable improvement in durability \nand gear engagement without jumping to a full dogbox setup, this kit delivers a smoother, stronger, and more confident \nshifting experience. Whether you're daily driving, road racing, or hitting weekend events, this upgraded gear set gives \nyour Honda or Acura transmission the reliability and performance it deserves.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nThis PPG gear kit fits a wide range of K-Series platforms, including the \n2002–2006 Acura RSX, 2004–2008 Acura TSX, \n2002–2011 Honda Civic Si, 2003–2007 Honda Accord, \n2002–2006 Honda CR-V, and 2003–2011 Honda Element. \nIt replaces 1st through 4th gears with your choice of helical-cut or straight-cut designs, \nboth using your factory-style synchro engagement for easy drivability. Helical gears offer quieter operation and a more \nOEM-like feel, while the straight-cut option reduces friction and frees up power—perfect for higher horsepower builds. \nYou can also run your OEM final drive or upgrade to an optional PPG final drive for even better acceleration.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\nIf you’re building a strong street car or a reliable track setup, this PPG K-Series gear kit is a smart investment. \nIt’s engineered to handle the abuse that stock gears simply can’t—and it does it while still keeping the transmission \neasy to drive. Strong ratios, smoother shifts, and a design built around real performance make this gear set one of the \nbest upgrades you can put inside your K-Series transmission.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eGear Ratio Options\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHelical Cut:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2.75 \/ 1.93 \/ 1.40 \/ 1.05\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStraight Cut:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2.615 \/ 1.666 \/ 1.15 \/ 0.909\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eOptional Final Drive Ratios\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e4.25, 4.40, 4.50, 4.61, 4.76\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor optional final drive gears or additional transmission components, please contact our support team at support@hybrid-racing.com.  \u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2002-2006 Acura RSX\u003cdiv\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\u003cli id=\"TechnicalData\"\u003e\n Gear Style Options\n    Helical Cut (quieter)\u003cdiv\u003eStraight Cut (reduced friction) \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003eEngagement Type\n    Synchro Mesh – uses OEM-style synchronizers \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003eIncluded Gears\n    1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e5th Gear Compatibility\n    Uses factory 5th gear \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003eFinal Drive Compatibility\n    Works with OEM or optional PPG Final Drive \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003eBest Use Cases\n    Street Performance • Road Racing • High-Power Builds\n  \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"PPG","offers":[{"title":"Helical (2.75 \/ 1.93 \/ 1.40 \/ 1.05)","offer_id":44603290320930,"sku":"PPG-KSYN4GH-14-GA","price":4649.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Straight (2.615 \/ 1.666 \/ 1.15 \/ 0.909)","offer_id":44603290353698,"sku":"PPG-KSYN4GS-14-GA","price":4649.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/ppg-synchro-mesh-gear-kit-hond_xmu4.jpg?v=1764785534"},{"product_id":"mfactory-helical-lsd-b-series","title":"MFactory Helical Limited Slip Differential for B Series","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThree Fitment Variants Available \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHelical Style LSD \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eForged Steel Construction \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eUp to 75% Torque Transfer to One Wheel \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eMFactory Helical Limited Slip Differential - Honda\/Acura B Series\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRunning a B series Integra or Civic at the track and you're spinning one wheel coming out of corners? Your open differential's sending all the power to the wheel with less traction. The MFactory helical LSD splits power between both wheels so you're actually putting power down instead of lighting up one tire. Your stock open diff sends 100% of the power to whichever wheel has less grip. That's why you're spinning the inside wheel coming out of corners. The helical LSD can transfer up to 75% of the torque to the wheel with more grip. You're getting way better corner exit traction and you're not one-wheel-pegging it everywhere.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why Open Diffs Suck for Track Use\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour stock B series diff is an open differential. When you're cornering hard and one wheel lifts or loses traction, all the power goes to that wheel. The wheel with traction gets nothing. You're spinning the inside wheel and going nowhere. An open diff works fine for street driving where you're not pushing the car, but on track it's garbage. Every time you're trying to put power down coming out of a corner, you're spinning one wheel. The MFactory helical LSD uses gear geometry to split power between both wheels based on which wheel has more traction. When one wheel starts to slip, the diff transfers torque to the other wheel automatically. No clutch packs, no preload springs, just gears doing their thing. You get predictable power delivery and way better corner exit speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHelical LSD vs. Clutch-Type LSD\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMost aftermarket LSDs are clutch-type (like Cusco or OBX). They use clutch packs that wear out and need rebuilds every few years. You're also supposed to run special diff fluid with friction modifiers. The MFactory helical LSD uses gears instead of clutches. There's nothing to wear out and you don't need special fluids. Just run regular gear oil and forget about it. I've got 5+ years and probably 100+ track days on my MFactory diff and it still works like new. Clutch-type diffs also change your steering feel because they bind up under certain conditions. The helical diff doesn't bind, so your steering feels normal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eForged Steel, Not Cast\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe MFactory diff's made from forged Japanese SAE 4320 and SAE 9310 steel. That's way stronger than cast steel or cheap Chinese forgings. The gears are double-tempered and cryogenically treated (super sub-zero treatment) for extra toughness. MFactory also shot-peens the gears to increase surface hardness. The diff's designed to handle drag racing shock loads, so it'll survive anything you throw at it on a road course or autocross. The gear geometry's designed to minimize parasitic drivetrain losses. MFactory claims their diffs transfer 1-2% more power to the wheels than competitors' diffs. That's not a huge number, but every bit helps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eThree Variants - Make Sure You Order the Right One\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMFactory makes three different B series diffs:\n\n**B16A\/B18A\/B18B** - Fits 1990-1993 Integra (B18A), 1999-2000 Civic Si (B16A2), 1994-1997 Del Sol VTEC (B16A), 1994-2001 Integra GS\/LS\/RS (B18B)\n\n**B18C1\/B18C5** - Fits 1994-2001 Integra GS-R (B18C1), 1997-2001 Integra Type R (B18C5)\n\n**B Series AWD** - Fits 1997-2001 CR-V (manual transmission). Works with standard FWD B series axles or AWD CR-V axles.\n\nThe diffs aren't interchangeable. The ring gear bolt patterns and case sizes are different. Order the correct one for your transmission or it won't fit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMFactory helical limited slip differential\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eForged Japanese SAE 4320\/9310 steel construction\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDouble-tempered and super sub-zero treated\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eShot-peened gears for increased surface hardness\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUp to 75% torque transfer to one wheel\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNo clutch packs (maintenance-free)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks with standard gear oil (no special fluids)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNo steering bind or adverse effects\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eLifetime globally transferable warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAvailable in three variants (see fitment below)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits Your Car (Choose Correct Variant)\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n**B16A\/B18A\/B18B Variant:**\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1990-1993 Acura Integra (B18A)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si EM1 (B16A2)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC (B16A)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS\/LS\/RS (B18B)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n**B18C1\/B18C5 Variant:**\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R (B18C1)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1997-2001 Acura Integra Type R (B18C5)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n**B Series AWD Variant:**\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1997-2001 Honda CR-V (manual transmission)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks with standard FWD B series axles or AWD CR-V axles\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Order the correct variant for your car or it won't fit. If your B16A2 Civic Si came with a factory viscous LSD, this diff won't bolt in without changing the ring gear. Installation requires pulling your transmission and opening the diff. If you've never done diff work, get a shop to install it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 1990-1993 Acura Integra GS\/LS\/RS\u003cdiv\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS\/LS\/RS\/Special Edition\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e1997-2001 Acura Integra Type R\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e1997-2001 Honda CR-V\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Limited Slip Differential\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"MFactory","offers":[{"title":"B16A\/B18A\/B18B","offer_id":45118447812642,"sku":"MFT-TRS-05B16","price":799.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B18C1\/B18C5","offer_id":45118447845410,"sku":"MFT-TRS-05B18","price":799.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B Series AWD","offer_id":45118447878178,"sku":"MFT-TRS-05RD1","price":999.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/mfactory-helical-limited-slip_1r32.jpg?v=1774988689"},{"product_id":"mfactory-helical-limited-slip-differential-honda-d-series","title":"MFactory Helical Limited Slip Differential for D15\/D16","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e4 Fitments Variants Available \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHelical Style LSD \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eUp to 75% Torque Transfer to One Wheel \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFitments for D15, D16, and DOHC ZC Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eMFactory Helical Limited Slip Differential - Honda D Series\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSpinning one wheel coming out of corners in your D series Civic or CRX and getting smoked by cars with LSDs? The MFactory helical LSD splits power between both wheels instead of sending all the torque to whichever wheel has less grip. I've run MFactory helical diffs in my D series track cars for years because they work and they don't need constant rebuilds like clutch-type LSDs. Your stock open diff sends 100% of power to the wheel with the least traction. That's why you're one-wheel-pegging it and going nowhere. The MFactory helical LSD can transfer up to 75% of torque to the wheel with more grip. You're getting way better corner exit traction and you're actually putting power down instead of spinning one tire.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why Open Diffs Are Garbage for Track Use\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour stock D series diff is an open differential. When you're cornering hard and one wheel lifts or loses traction, all the power goes to that wheel. The wheel with traction gets nothing. You're spinning the inside wheel and the car's not accelerating. An open diff works fine for street driving where you're not pushing the car, but on track it's useless. Every time you're trying to put power down coming out of a corner, you're spinning one wheel. The MFactory helical LSD uses gear geometry to split power between both wheels based on which wheel has more traction. When one wheel starts to slip, the diff transfers torque to the other wheel automatically. No clutch packs, no preload springs, just gears doing their thing. You get predictable power delivery and way better corner exit speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHelical LSD vs. Clutch-Type LSD\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMost aftermarket LSDs are clutch-type (like Cusco or OBX). They use clutch packs that wear out and need rebuilds every few years. You're also supposed to run special diff fluid with friction modifiers. The MFactory helical LSD uses gears instead of clutches. There's nothing to wear out and you don't need special fluids. Just run regular gear oil and forget about it. I've got 5+ years and probably 100+ track days on my MFactory diff and it still works like new. Clutch-type diffs also change your steering feel because they bind up under certain conditions. The helical diff doesn't bind, so your steering feels normal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eForged Japanese Steel, Not Cast Garbage\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe MFactory diff's made from forged Japanese SAE 4320 and SAE 9310 steel. That's way stronger than cast steel or cheap Chinese forgings. The gears are double-tempered and cryogenically treated (super sub-zero treatment) for extra toughness. MFactory also shot-peens the gears to increase surface hardness. The diff's designed to handle drag racing shock loads, so it'll survive anything you throw at it on a road course or autocross. The gear geometry's designed to minimize parasitic drivetrain losses. MFactory claims their diffs transfer 1-2% more power to the wheels than competitors' diffs. That's not a huge number, but every bit helps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFour Variants Based on Differential Bearing Size\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMFactory makes four different D series LSDs based on differential bearing size and engine type. You MUST order the correct variant for your transmission or it won't fit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVariant 1: D15\/D16 35mm Differential Bearing (White Speedo Gear)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFits: L3, S20, S40, S4C transmissions with white speedometer gear and A00\/A000 case stamp\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eEngines: D15B, D15B7, D15B8, D16A6, D16Z6, D16Y5, D16Y7 (with 35mm bearing transmissions)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eVehicles: 1988-2000 Civic DX\/LX\/EX\/Si\/HX, CRX DX\/Si, Del Sol S\/Si (with white speedo gear)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVariant 2: D15\/D16 40mm Differential Bearing (Black Speedo Gear)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFits: L3, S20, S40, S4C transmissions with black speedometer gear and B00\/B000 case stamp\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eEngines: D15B, D15B7, D16Z6, D16Y8, D16Y7 (with 40mm bearing transmissions)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eVehicles: 1989-2000 Civic DX\/LX\/EX, 1996-2000 Civic EX (D16Y8 - most common), 1999-2000 Civic Si, Del Sol VTEC (with black speedo gear)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVariant 3: DOHC ZC Engine\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFits: S1, A1 transmissions (DOHC ZC only)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eEngines: ZC DOHC (1.6L dual overhead cam, JDM engine)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eVehicles: 1988-1991 Civic\/CRX with JDM DOHC ZC engine swap (ZC never sold in USA)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVariant 4: D17A Engine\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFits: SLXA, SLXM transmissions (D17 cable transmissions)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eEngines: D17A1, D17A2, D17A6\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eVehicles: 2001-2005 Civic DX\/LX\/EX (7th gen, NOT EP3 Si which uses K20A3)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow to Identify Your Differential Bearing Size\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've got a D15 or D16 engine, you need to figure out if you've got 35mm or 40mm differential bearings. Here's how:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMethod 1 - Check Speedometer Gear Color:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRemove your vehicle speed sensor (VSS) from the transmission\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eLook at the speedometer gear inside the transmission case\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBlack gear = 40mm bearing (order Variant 2)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWhite gear = 35mm bearing (order Variant 1)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMethod 2 - Check Transmission Case Stamp:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eLook for a stamp on your transmission case near the transmission code\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eB00 or B000 stamp = 40mm bearing (order Variant 2)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eA00 or A000 stamp = 35mm bearing (order Variant 1)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMFactory helical limited slip differential (choose correct variant)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eForged Japanese SAE 4320\/9310 steel construction\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDouble-tempered and super sub-zero treated\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eShot-peened gears for increased surface hardness\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUp to 75% torque transfer to one wheel\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNo clutch packs (maintenance-free)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks with standard gear oil (no special fluids)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNo steering bind or adverse effects\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBrighton-Best hardware included\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eLifetime globally transferable warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePower rating: supports up to 1000+ whp\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ordering the wrong variant will result in the differential NOT fitting. The 35mm and 40mm bearings are NOT interchangeable. Verify your bearing size before ordering by checking your speedometer gear color or transmission case stamp. If you're not sure which variant you need, remove your VSS and look at the speedo gear color, that's the easiest way to tell. Installation requires pulling your transmission and opening the diff. If you've never done diff work, get a shop to install it. The diff supports up to 1000+ whp, so it'll handle any D series build you throw at it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-style: italic;\"\u003e*Images show the D17A variant. Other LSD variants may differ from what is depicted in the images. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cdiv\u003e1988-2000 Honda Civic CX\/DX\/EX\/LX\/VX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2001-2005 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\u003cbr\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e1988-1991 Honda CRX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e1993-1997 Honda Del Sol S\/Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Limited Slip Differential\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"MFactory","offers":[{"title":"D Series (35mm Bearing)","offer_id":45118641700898,"sku":"MFT-TRS-05D15A","price":799.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"D Series (40mm Bearing)","offer_id":45118641733666,"sku":"MFT-TRS-05D15","price":799.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"DOHC ZC","offer_id":45118641766434,"sku":"MFT-TRS-05D15Z","price":799.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"D17A","offer_id":45118641799202,"sku":"MFT-TRS-05D17","price":799.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/mfactory-helical-limited-slip_o5ue.jpg?v=1785722753"},{"product_id":"mfactory-helical-limited-slip-differential-honda-h-series","title":"MFactory Helical Limited Slip Differential for F\/H Series","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with F22, F23, H22, and H23 Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHelical Style LSD \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eForged Steel Construction \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eEliminates the One Wheel Peel! \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eMFactory Helical Limited Slip Differential - Honda F\/H Series (Accord\/Prelude)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRunning a Prelude or Accord at the track and spinning one wheel coming out of corners? Your stock open diff's sending all the power to whichever wheel has less grip. The MFactory helical LSD splits power between both wheels so you're actually putting power down instead of lighting up one tire. They work and they don't need constant rebuilds like clutch-type LSDs. Your stock open diff sends 100% of power to the wheel with the least traction. That's why you're one-wheel-pegging it and going nowhere. The MFactory helical LSD can transfer up to 75% of torque to the wheel with more grip. You're getting way better corner exit traction and you're not wasting power spinning one wheel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why Open Diffs Suck for Track Use\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour stock F or H series diff is an open differential. When you're cornering hard and one wheel lifts or loses traction, all the power goes to that wheel. The wheel with traction gets nothing. You're spinning the inside wheel and the car's not accelerating. An open diff works fine for street driving where you're not pushing the car, but on track it's useless. Every time you're trying to put power down coming out of a corner, you're spinning one wheel and your lap times suffer. The MFactory helical LSD uses gear geometry to split power between both wheels based on which wheel has more traction. When one wheel starts to slip, the diff transfers torque to the other wheel automatically. No clutch packs, no preload springs, just gears doing their thing. You get predictable power delivery and way better corner exit speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHelical LSD vs. Clutch-Type LSD\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMost aftermarket LSDs are clutch-type (like Cusco or OBX). They use clutch packs that wear out and need rebuilds every few years. You're also supposed to run special diff fluid with friction modifiers. The MFactory helical LSD uses gears instead of clutches. There's nothing to wear out and you don't need special fluids. Just run regular gear oil and forget about it. I've got 5+ years and probably 100+ track days on my MFactory diff and it still works like new. Clutch-type diffs also change your steering feel because they bind up under certain conditions. The helical diff doesn't bind, so your steering feels normal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eForged Japanese Steel, Not Cast\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe MFactory diff's made from forged Japanese SAE 4320 and SAE 9310 steel. That's way stronger than cast steel or cheap Chinese forgings. The gears are double-tempered and cryogenically treated (super sub-zero treatment) for extra toughness. MFactory also shot-peens the gears to increase surface hardness. The diff's designed to handle drag racing shock loads, so it'll survive anything you throw at it on a road course or autocross. The gear geometry's designed to minimize parasitic drivetrain losses. MFactory claims their diffs transfer 1-2% more power to the wheels than competitors' diffs. That's not a huge number, but every bit helps when you're chasing lap times.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMFactory helical limited slip differential\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eForged Japanese SAE 4320\/9310 steel construction\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDouble-tempered and super sub-zero treated\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eShot-peened gears for increased surface hardness\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUp to 75% torque transfer to one wheel\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNo clutch packs (maintenance-free)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks with standard gear oil (no special fluids)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNo steering bind or adverse effects\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBrighton-Best hardware included\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eLifetime globally transferable warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits Your Car\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e1990-2002 Honda Accord:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1990-1993 Honda Accord (F22A engine, M2F4\/M2S4 transmission)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1994-1997 Honda Accord (F22B engine, M2Y4\/P2A4 transmission)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1998-2002 Honda Accord (F23A engine, P2A5\/P2A8 transmission)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e1992-2001 Honda Prelude:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1992-1996 Honda Prelude Si (H23A engine, M2U4\/M2U5 transmission)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1992-1996 Honda Prelude VTEC (H22A1 engine, H2U4\/H2U5 transmission)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1997-2001 Honda Prelude VTEC (H22A4 engine, H2A5\/P2U5 transmission)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Engines\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eF22A (1990-1993 Accord)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eF22B (1994-1997 Accord)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eF23A (1998-2002 Accord)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eH22A1 (1992-1996 Prelude VTEC)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eH22A4 (1997-2001 Prelude VTEC)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eH23A (1992-1996 Prelude Si)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Transmissions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eH2A5 (5-speed manual, 1997-2001 Prelude VTEC)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eH2U4 (5-speed manual, 1992-1996 Prelude VTEC)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eH2U5 (5-speed manual, 1992-1996 Prelude VTEC)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eM2F4 (5-speed manual, 1990-1993 Accord)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eM2S4 (5-speed manual, 1990-1993 Accord)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eM2U4 (5-speed manual, 1992-1996 Prelude Si)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eM2U5 (5-speed manual, 1992-1996 Prelude Si)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eM2Y4 (5-speed manual, 1994-1997 Accord)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eP2A4 (5-speed manual, 1994-1997 Accord)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eP2A5 (5-speed manual, 1998-2002 Accord)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eP2A8 (5-speed manual, 1998-2002 Accord)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eP2U5 (5-speed manual, 1997-2001 Prelude VTEC)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e This LSD does NOT fit 1997-2001 Prelude SH models with the factory ATTS (Active Torque Transfer System) LSD. The Prelude SH came with a factory mechanical LSD and uses a different differential case. This MFactory LSD only fits Prelude models that came with an open differential from the factory. Installation requires pulling your transmission and opening the diff. If you've never done diff work, get a shop to install it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 1990-2002 Honda Accord\u003cdiv\u003e1992-2001 Honda Prelude*\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-style: italic;\"\u003e*Will Not Fit Type SH with OEM LSD\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Limited Slip Differential\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"MFactory","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45118737711138,"sku":"MFT-TRS-05H22","price":799.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/MFT-TRS-05H22_tofm.jpg?v=1774993298"},{"product_id":"mfactory-helical-limited-slip-differential-honda-k-series","title":"MFactory Helical Limited Slip Differential for K Series","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFWD and AWD Fitments Available \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with K20A, K20Z, and K24A Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHelical Style LSD \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eUp to 75% Torque Transfer to One Wheel \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eMFactory Helical Limited Slip Differential - Honda\/Acura K Series\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSpinning one wheel coming out of corners in your K series and getting left behind by cars with LSDs? The MFactory helical LSD splits power between both wheels instead of sending all the torque to whichever wheel has less grip. MFactory helical diffs work and they don't need constant rebuilds like clutch-type LSDs. Your stock open diff sends 100% of power to the wheel with the least traction. That's why you're one-wheel-pegging it in your RSX or Civic Si and going nowhere. The MFactory helical LSD can transfer up to 75% of torque to the wheel with more grip. You're getting way better corner exit traction and you're actually putting power down instead of spinning one tire.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why Open Diffs Are Useless for Track Use\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour stock K series diff is an open differential. When you're cornering hard and one wheel lifts or loses traction, all the power goes to that wheel. The wheel with traction gets nothing. You're spinning the inside wheel and the car's not accelerating. An open diff works fine for street driving where you're not pushing the car, but on track it's garbage. Every time you're trying to put power down coming out of a corner, you're spinning one wheel and your lap times suffer. The MFactory helical LSD uses gear geometry to split power between both wheels based on which wheel has more traction. When one wheel starts to slip, the diff transfers torque to the other wheel automatically. No clutch packs, no preload springs, just gears doing their thing. You get predictable power delivery and way better corner exit speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHelical LSD vs. Clutch-Type LSD\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMost aftermarket LSDs are clutch-type (like Cusco or OBX). They use clutch packs that wear out and need rebuilds every few years. You're also supposed to run special diff fluid with friction modifiers. The MFactory helical LSD uses gears instead of clutches. There's nothing to wear out and you don't need special fluids. Just run regular gear oil and forget about it. MFactory diffs hold up to 5+ years and 100+ track days without needing rebuilds. Clutch-type diffs also change your steering feel because they bind up under certain conditions. The helical diff doesn't bind, so your steering feels normal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eForged Chromoly Steel, Not Cast\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe MFactory diff's made from forged Japanese SAE 4320 and SAE 9310 chromoly steel. That's way stronger than cast steel or cheap Chinese forgings. The gears are double-tempered and cryogenically treated (super sub-zero treatment) for extra toughness. MFactory also shot-peens the gears to increase surface hardness. The diff's designed to handle drag racing shock loads, so it'll survive anything you throw at it on a road course or autocross. The gear geometry's designed to minimize parasitic drivetrain losses. MFactory claims their diffs transfer 1-2% more power to the wheels than competitors' diffs. That's not a huge number, but every bit helps when you're chasing lap times.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eTwo Variants - FWD or AWD\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMFactory makes two different K series LSDs: one for FWD transmissions and one for AWD transmissions. Make sure you order the correct variant for your car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFWD Variant:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fits all K series FWD manual transmissions (RSX, TSX, Civic Si, Accord, CR-V FWD, Element)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAWD Variant:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fits K series AWD manual transmissions (CR-V AWD)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMFactory helical limited slip differential (choose FWD or AWD variant)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eForged Japanese SAE 4320\/9310 chromoly steel construction\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDouble-tempered and super sub-zero treated\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eShot-peened gears for increased surface hardness\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUp to 75% torque transfer to one wheel\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNo clutch packs (maintenance-free)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks with standard gear oil (no special fluids)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNo steering bind or adverse effects\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBrighton-Best hardware included\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eLifetime globally transferable warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFWD Variant - Fits Your Car\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type S (K20A3, K20A2, K20Z1)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX (K24A2)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord (K24A4, K24A8 - 4-cylinder manual only)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si EP3 (K20A3)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si FA5\/FG2 (K20Z3)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V (K24A1 - FWD manual transmission only)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element (K24A4, K24A8 - manual transmission only)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAWD Variant - Fits Your Car\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V (K24A1 - AWD manual transmission, rear differential)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2002-2006 Acura RSX\u003cdiv\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord (K24)\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V*\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-style: italic;\"\u003e*FWD and AWD Variants Use Different Part #s\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Limited Slip Differential\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"MFactory","offers":[{"title":"FWD","offer_id":45118831755298,"sku":"MFT-TRS-05K20","price":799.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"AWD","offer_id":45118831788066,"sku":"MFT-TRS-05K20-AWD","price":899.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/mfactory-helical-limited-slip_6xtz.jpg?v=1774995166"},{"product_id":"honda-k20a2-k20a3-speedo-drive-gear-41312-ppp-000","title":"Honda K20A2\/K20A3 Speedo Drive Gear 41312-PPP-000","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine Honda Product \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with K20A2 and K20A3 Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDirect Factory Replacement Part \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDrives VSS to Show Speed Data at ECU and Gauges \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHonda K20A2\/K20A3 Speedometer Drive Gear - 41312-PPP-000\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour RSX or EP3 Si speedometer bouncing all over the place or just dead? Honda part number 41312-PPP-000 is the speedo drive gear that bolts to your diff inside your transmission. It's the gear that drives your vehicle speed sensor so your speedo knows how fast you're going. When the teeth wear down or strip, your VSS can't read your speed. Your speedometer stops working, bounces around, or reads totally wrong. You'll also get VSS codes because your ECU needs that speed data for fuel and ignition. Fresh gear fixes it all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's What This Gear Does\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe speedo drive gear bolts to your differential inside your trans. Your diff spins when your wheels turn. The gear's attached to the diff so it spins at wheel speed. The gear teeth drive a smaller gear that's connected to your vehicle speed sensor. The VSS reads how fast the gear's spinning and sends that to your ECU and speedometer. Your ECU uses speed data for fuel trims and shift logic. Your speedo uses it to show you how fast you're going. The gear ratio's matched to your final drive and tire size so your speedo's accurate. When the gear's worn, the VSS can't get a clean signal and everything quits working.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy These Gears Get Trashed\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe speedo gear's plastic meshing with metal gears, so it wears down over time. Running low on trans fluid or dirty fluid from worn synchros makes it worse. High-mileage transmissions (150k+) usually have some wear on the speedo gear. Sometimes the teeth strip completely if the VSS seizes up. If your speedo's acting weird or you're getting VSS codes, this gear's probably worn. Pull the trans and check it. Worn or stripped teeth mean you're replacing it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eYou're Splitting the Case for This\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou can't touch this gear without pulling your trans and splitting the case. It's bolted to your diff, which is buried inside the trans. You're pulling the trans, draining it, splitting the case, and unbolting the gear from the diff. If you're already doing a trans rebuild, check this gear and replace it if it's got any wear. If your speedo's your only problem and the trans is fine otherwise, you're probably not tearing the whole thing apart just for this. But if you're in there anyway, swap it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda OEM speedometer drive gear (part number 41312-PPP-000)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBolts to differential inside transmission\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDrives vehicle speed sensor (VSS)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSends speed data to ECU and speedometer\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMatched to final drive ratio and tire size\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSame gear your trans came with from the factory\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits Your Car\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si EP3\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Transmissions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20A2\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20A3\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20Z1\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Before you tear your trans apart, check your VSS and wiring first. A bad sensor or corroded connector's way more common than a stripped gear. You can find the compatible vehicle speed sensor for this speedo gear under \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/k20a2-vehicle-speed-sensor-78410-s6m-n0102-04-rsx-type-s?_pos=2\u0026amp;_sid=a1ba3a04e\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e78410-S6M-N01\u003c\/a\u003e. But if you're already in the trans doing a rebuild, check this gear. Worn or chipped teeth mean replace it. When you're bolting the new gear to the diff, make sure it's tight. Loose gear wears faster and the teeth skip.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2002-2004 Acura RSX Base\/Type S\u003cdiv\u003e2004-2005 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Speedometer Drive Gear\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45130294493218,"sku":"OHA-41312-PPP-000","price":145.34,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/OHA-41312-PPP-000_s1gj.jpg?v=1775082611"},{"product_id":"honda-k-series-mainshaft-brake-arm-24412-pns-000","title":"Honda K20A2\/K24A2\/K20Z Mainshaft Brake Arm 24412-PNS-000","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine Honda Product \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDirect Factory Replacement Part \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with RSX Type S, 8th Gen Civic Si, and TSX \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWorks on K20A2, K20Z1, K20Z3, and K24A2 Gear Selectors \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHonda K20A2\/K24A2\/K20Z Mainshaft Brake Arm - 24412-PNS-000\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRebuilding your RSX Type S, TSX, or Civic Si transmission and you need the mainshaft brake arm? Part number 24412-PNS-000. This is the arm that stops your mainshaft from spinning when you shift into reverse. It sits under your gear selector shift arm inside the interlock assembly. When you slam it into reverse, this arm engages and brakes the mainshaft so reverse gear can mesh without grinding. Without it or if it's worn, you're grinding gears every time you go into reverse.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's What This Arm Actually Does\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour transmission's mainshaft is spinning whenever you're in gear moving forward. When you shift to reverse, the mainshaft's still spinning from momentum. If you try to engage reverse while it's spinning, the gears clash and you get that horrible grinding noise. The mainshaft brake arm fixes this. When you move the shifter to reverse, the brake arm engages and physically stops the mainshaft from spinning. Once it's stopped, reverse gear can mesh cleanly without grinding. It's a mechanical brake inside your transmission specifically for reverse gear. If the arm's worn or broken, there's nothing stopping your mainshaft and you're grinding into reverse every time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCommon Failure on High-Mileage Transmissions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe mainshaft brake arm wears out over time from constant use. Every time you shift to reverse, it's engaging and stopping a spinning shaft. After 150k+ miles or aggressive driving, the arm wears down or the contact surface gets smooth. It can't grip the mainshaft properly anymore. You start getting grinding going into reverse even when you're stopped. It gets worse over time. If you're already rebuilding your transmission and your reverse gear's been grinding, check this arm. If it's worn or damaged, replace it. Don't put a fresh transmission back together with a worn brake arm and have reverse grinding again in 10k miles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eInstalls Inside the Interlock Assembly\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe mainshaft brake arm sits under the gear selector shift arm inside the interlock. You're not getting to this without splitting your transmission case. If you're doing a full transmission rebuild, you're already in there. Check the arm for wear. If it's worn smooth or cracked, replace it. If you're just doing a clutch job and you're not opening the trans, you're not touching this part. But if you're rebuilding internals, inspect it and replace it if needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda OEM mainshaft brake arm (part number 24412-PNS-000)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eStops mainshaft rotation when shifting to reverse\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eInstalls under gear selector shift arm in interlock assembly\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePrevents reverse gear grinding\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSame arm your transmission came with from the factory\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits Your Car\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2014 Acura TSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Transmissions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20A2 6-speed (2002-2004 RSX Type S)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20Z1 6-speed (2005-2006 RSX Type S)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20Z3 6-speed (2006-2011 Civic Si FA5\/FG2)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24A2 6-speed (2004-2008 TSX)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e This arm's buried inside your transmission within the gear selector assembly. You're not getting to it without splitting the case. If you're doing a transmission rebuild and you've been grinding into reverse, inspect this arm closely. Look for wear on the contact surface where it brakes the mainshaft. If it's worn smooth or there's any cracks or damage, replace it. When you're installing it, make sure it moves freely and engages properly when you move the shift selector to reverse. If it's binding or not engaging all the way, something's not right. Fix it before you button up the case. Testing your shift mechanism with the case open saves you from pulling the trans again later because reverse is grinding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S\u003cdiv\u003e2004-2014 Acura TSX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Mainshaft Brake Arm\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45202135613474,"sku":"OHA-24412-PNS-000","price":46.54,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/OHA-24412-PNS-000_4c4d.jpg?v=1775595672"},{"product_id":"honda-mainshaft-brake-return-spring-24413-pns-000","title":"Honda K Series Mainshaft Brake Return Spring 24413-PNS-000","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine Honda Product \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDirect Factory Replacement Part \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSits Between Gear Shift Arm and Mainshaft Brake Arm \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCritical Component of Gear Selector \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHonda K Series Mainshaft Brake Return Spring - 24413-PNS-000\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRebuilding your K series 6-speed transmission and you need the mainshaft brake return spring? Part number 24413-PNS-000. This is the small spring that sits between the gear selector arm and the mainshaft brake arm. When you shift into reverse, the selector arm pushes the mainshaft brake to stop the mainshaft from spinning. When you shift out of reverse, this spring pulls the brake arm back to its rest position. Without this spring or if it's weak or broken, the mainshaft brake doesn't return properly. You're getting grinding going into reverse or the brake's staying engaged when you shift out of reverse. Fresh spring keeps the mainshaft brake working right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's What This Spring Does\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe mainshaft brake stops your mainshaft from spinning when you're shifting into reverse. The brake arm engages and clamps the mainshaft so reverse gear can mesh without grinding. When you shift out of reverse, the brake arm needs to release and return to its neutral position. This return spring pulls the brake arm back. Without the spring, the brake arm just sits there wherever it was. It might not fully disengage. You're getting drag on the mainshaft or the brake's partially engaged in other gears. The spring's small but it's critical for the mainshaft brake to cycle properly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eReplace It During Transmission Rebuilds\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're tearing your K series 6-speed apart for a rebuild, replace this spring. It's inside your transmission on the selector mechanism. The spring's cheap and it's right there when you've got the selector assembly out. Don't reuse a spring that's been cycling thousands of times for 100k+ miles. Springs lose tension over time. A weak spring means the brake arm doesn't return all the way and you're getting shifting problems. If you're replacing the mainshaft brake arm, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-k-series-mainshaft-brake-arm-24412-pns-000?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=4cc5a7de7\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e24412-PNS-000\u003c\/a\u003e, replace this return spring at the same time. They work together and you're already in there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eTiny Spring, Important Job\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis spring's tiny. Most people rebuilding transmissions don't even notice it until they're looking at parts diagrams or the old spring falls out. But when it's missing or weak, your reverse shifts are grinding or you're getting weird drag in other gears because the brake's not fully releasing. It's one of those parts that seems like nothing until it's not there and your transmission's acting up. Replace it during your rebuild and you won't think about it again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda OEM mainshaft brake return spring (part number 24413-PNS-000)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eReturns mainshaft brake arm to neutral position\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSits between gear selector arm and mainshaft brake arm\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eEnsures proper mainshaft brake cycling\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePrevents brake drag and grinding shifts\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSame spring your transmission came with from the factory\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits Your Car\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2012 Acura TSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCompatible Transmissions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20A2 6-speed (2002-2004 RSX Type S)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20Z1 6-speed (2005-2006 RSX Type S)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK20Z3 6-speed (2006-2011 Civic Si)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24A2 6-speed (2004-2008 TSX)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK24Z3 6-speed (2009-2012 TSX)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e This spring's inside your transmission on the selector mechanism. You need to pull the selector assembly out to replace it. If you're doing a transmission rebuild, this spring should be on your parts list along with the mainshaft brake arm. When you're installing it, make sure it hooks between the selector arm and the brake arm properly. The spring needs tension to pull the brake arm back. If it's not hooked right, it won't return the brake arm and you'll have shifting problems. Check that the spring's seated correctly before you button everything up. If you're replacing the mainshaft brake arm because it's worn or damaged, don't reuse the old spring. Replace them together. The spring's cheap and it's critical for the brake mechanism to work right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Return Spring\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45241429393442,"sku":"OHA-24413-PNS-000","price":3.79,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/OHA-24413-PNS-000_q1k1.jpg?v=1776283867"},{"product_id":"honda-k-series-manual-transmission-countershaft-thrust-shim","title":"Honda K Series Manual Transmission Countershaft Thrust Shim","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine Honda Product \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDirect Factory Replacement Part \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNecessary for Transmission Rebuilds and Aftermarket Gear Sets \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSold Individually \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e  \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#TechnicalData\"\u003eTechnical Data\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHonda K\/J Series Manual Transmission Countershaft Thrust Shim\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're tearing into your K or J series transmission for a rebuild and someone told you about countershaft shims but you have no idea which one you need? Here's the problem, you won't know until the trans is apart and you've measured the gap with a feeler gauge. These OEM countershaft thrust shims control the spacing between the countershaft ball bearing and the 35mm shim. They come in thicknesses from 0.87mm to 1.99mm with part numbers ranging from 22981-PPP-000 to 23995-PPP-000. Honda's spec says the gap needs to be between 0.04mm-0.10mm. If your gap's outside that range, you need one of these shims or your gears aren't going to mesh right and you're going to have problems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's What Happens If You Skip This\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe countershaft's the shaft that holds all your counter gears. It meshes with the mainshaft gears to give you different ratios. The shaft needs to spin freely but it can't be flopping around side to side. That side-to-side movement's called endplay. Too much endplay and the gears hit each other at the wrong angle. The gear teeth start wearing funny and eventually you're grinding gears or burning up synchros because nothing's lining up right. Not enough clearance and the bearings bind up. Now you've got friction and heat and the shaft's not spinning smoothly. The shim sets the endplay so the gears mesh properly and the bearings don't bind. It's a critical measurement that most people ignore until their rebuilt transmission starts eating itself.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eYou Definitely Need This With Aftermarket Parts\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStock rebuild with all OEM parts? You can probably reuse the shim that came out. But the second you start swapping in aftermarket synchros, new gear sets, or upgraded bearings, all bets are off. That aftermarket Synchrotech hub? It's not the exact same thickness as the OEM one. Those new bearings? The inner race height's slightly different. All those tiny differences stack up and throw your endplay out of spec. We've seen people rebuild transmissions with expensive aftermarket synchros and skip the shimming step. Three months later they're back with the trans apart because it's grinding or popping out of gear. K series transmissions aren't like swapping pistons where you just bolt stuff in. You have to measure and shim or it doesn't work right. That's just how they're built.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow to Figure Out Which Shim You Actually Need\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou can't guess this. You can't use a chart. You have to measure. Here's how it works: get the countershaft assembled with the bearings and the 35mm shim on there. Grab a feeler gauge and check the gap between the ball bearing and that 35mm shim. Honda says it needs to be 0.04mm-0.10mm. Your gap's bigger than that? You need a thicker shim. Gap's too tight? You need a thinner one. You're picking the shim that gets your endplay into Honda's spec range. Most people doing serious transmission builds just buy a set of different thickness shims so they've got options when they measure. Trying to guess which one you need before you've got the trans apart is pointless. Measure first, order the right shim, then finish the build.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOne Honda OEM countershaft thrust shim (part number varies by thickness)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAvailable in thicknesses from 0.87mm to 1.99mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eControls countershaft endplay so gears mesh properly\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eGoes on the countershaft between ball bearing and 35mm shim\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRequired for proper gear alignment with aftermarket parts\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Transmissions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003 Acura CL Type S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006-2011 Acura CSX Type S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2013-2015 Acura ILX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2024-2026 Acura Integra Type S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2014 Acura TL\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2014 Acura TSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2017 Honda Accord (K24\/V6)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2018-2020 Honda Accord 2.0T Sport\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2017-2021 Honda Civic Type R\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2023-2026 Honda Civic Type R\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2010 Honda Element\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2016-2018 Honda HR-V (including R series)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e These shims are sold individually by thickness. You're ordering one shim. Before you order, measure your actual clearance with the trans apart. Don't guess and don't try to reuse your old measurement from a previous build. Every build's different. You can't return shims once you've opened them because they're precision parts. If you're rebuilding a trans with aftermarket synchros or gears, buy three or four different thicknesses. That way when you measure, you've got the right one sitting there instead of waiting for shipping while your trans is in pieces all over your garage. When you're measuring, make absolutely sure the countershaft bearing's fully pressed on and the 35mm shim's seated right. If the bearing's not seated all the way or the shim's crooked, your measurement's garbage and you're going to pick the wrong thickness. After you install the shim and put the countershaft back together, measure again. Check it with the feeler gauge. If it's not between 0.04mm-0.10mm, you've got the wrong shim. Pull it apart and try a different thickness. Don't skip this recheck. We've seen people install the shim, assume it's good, button everything up, and then realize the endplay's still wrong when the trans starts grinding. Now they're pulling the whole thing apart again. Wrong endplay kills synchros and gears fast. A $15 shim's cheap compared to replacing a $400 synchro kit because you didn't measure properly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2003 Acura CL Type S\u003cdiv\u003e2006-2011 Acura CSX Type S\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2013-2015 Acura ILX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2024-2026 Acura Integra Type S\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Bae\/Type S\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2004-2014 Acura TL\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2004-2014 Acura TSX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2017 Honda Accord (K24\/V6)\u003cdiv\u003e2018-2020 Honda Accord 2.0T Sport\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2017-2021 Honda Civic Type R\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2023-2026 Honda Civic Type R\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2010 Honda Element\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2016-2018 Honda HR-V\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\u003cli id=\"TechnicalData\"\u003e\nThickness Range: 0.87mm (0.0343 inches) to 1.99mm (0.0783 inches)\u003cdiv\u003eCountershaft Thrust Shim should only be used if the clearance between the ball bearing and the 35mm countershaft shim exceeds OEM Standard of 0.04-0.1mm (0.0016-0.0039 inch)\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003eCountershaft Shims only compatible with Manual Transmissions\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Countershaft Thrust Shim*\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-style: italic;\"\u003e*Sold Individually\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Type A - 0.87mm","offer_id":45269513699362,"sku":"OHA-23981-PPP-000","price":14.24,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AA - 0.91mm","offer_id":45269513732130,"sku":"OHA-23981-PPP-900","price":14.24,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type B - 0.95mm","offer_id":45269513764898,"sku":"OHA-23982-PPP-000","price":14.24,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AB - 0.99mm","offer_id":45269513797666,"sku":"OHA-23982-PPP-900","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type C - 1.03mm","offer_id":45269513830434,"sku":"OHA-23983-PPP-000","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AC - 1.07mm","offer_id":45269513863202,"sku":"OHA-23983-PPP-900","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type D - 1.11mm","offer_id":45269513895970,"sku":"OHA-23984-PPP-000","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AD - 1.15mm","offer_id":45269513928738,"sku":"OHA-23984-PPP-900","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type E - 1.19mm","offer_id":45269513961506,"sku":"OHA-23985-PPP-000","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AE - 1.23mm","offer_id":45269513994274,"sku":"OHA-23985-PPP-900","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type F - 1.27mm","offer_id":45269514027042,"sku":"OHA-23986-PPP-000","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AF - 1.31mm","offer_id":45269514059810,"sku":"OHA-23986-PPP-900","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type G - 1.35mm","offer_id":45269514092578,"sku":"OHA-23987-PPP-000","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AG - 1.39mm","offer_id":45269514125346,"sku":"OHA-23987-PPP-900","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type H - 1.43mm","offer_id":45269514158114,"sku":"OHA-23988-PPP-000","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AH - 1.47mm","offer_id":45269514190882,"sku":"OHA-23988-PPP-900","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type J - 1.51mm","offer_id":45269514223650,"sku":"OHA-23989-PPP-000","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AJ - 1.55mm","offer_id":45269514256418,"sku":"OHA-23989-PPP-900","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type K -1.59mm","offer_id":45269514289186,"sku":"OHA-23990-PPP-000","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AK - 1.63mm","offer_id":45269514321954,"sku":"OHA-23990-PPP-900","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type L - 1.67mm","offer_id":45269514354722,"sku":"OHA-23991-PPP-000","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AL - 1.71mm","offer_id":45269514387490,"sku":"OHA-23991-PPP-900","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type M -1.75mm","offer_id":45269514420258,"sku":"OHA-23992-PPP-000","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AM - 1.79mm","offer_id":45269514453026,"sku":"OHA-23992-PPP-900","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type N - 1.83mm","offer_id":45269514485794,"sku":"OHA-23993-PPP-000","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AN - 1.87mm","offer_id":45269514518562,"sku":"OHA-23993-PPP-900","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type P - 1.91mm","offer_id":45269514551330,"sku":"OHA-23994-PPP-000","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AP - 1.95mm","offer_id":45269514584098,"sku":"OHA-23994-PPP-900","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type Q - 1.99mm","offer_id":45269514616866,"sku":"OHA-23995-PPP-000","price":15.19,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/honda-k-series-manual-transmis_iabl_08bedc17-4bb9-4761-b9f9-e9d274c06a76.jpg?v=1790606992"},{"product_id":"honda-b-k-series-manual-transmission-mainshaft-thrust-shim","title":"Honda B\/K Series Manual Transmission Mainshaft Thrust Shim","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine Honda Product \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSold Individually \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDirect Factory Replacement Part \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNecessary for Transmission Rebuilds and Aftermarket Gear Sets \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHonda B\/K Series Manual Transmission Mainshaft Thrust Shim\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo you're rebuilding your B or K series transmission with new synchros, bearings, or a new transmission case and you need to set the mainshaft thrust clearance? These are the OEM mainshaft thrust shims that control how much up-and-down movement (endplay) your mainshaft has. Part numbers range from 23291-P21-000 to 23986-P21-J00 depending on thickness. The shims come in thicknesses from 0.6mm (0.0236 inch) to 2.25mm (0.0886 inch). You won't know which one you need until your transmission's apart and you've measured the clearance with a dial gauge and mainshaft thrust tool. Honda's spec is 0.11mm-0.17mm (0.0043-0.0067 inch). If your clearance is outside that range, you need a different thickness shim or your transmission's going to have problems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why Mainshaft Thrust Matters\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe mainshaft's the shaft that holds your synchronized gears, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and on 6-speeds, 6th gear. The mainshaft has to spin freely inside the transmission case but it can't have excessive up-and-down movement. That movement's called mainshaft thrust or endplay. If there's too much thrust, the mainshaft's moving around and the gears aren't meshing cleanly with the countershaft gears. You're getting accelerated wear on the gear teeth and your synchros are taking a beating because the gears are hitting at weird angles. Eventually the trans starts grinding, popping out of gear, or synchros burn up. If there's not enough clearance - if the shim's too thick - the bearings bind up and create friction and heat. The mainshaft doesn't spin freely and you're wearing out bearings. The shim controls that thrust clearance and keeps the mainshaft positioned where it needs to be.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eYou Need to Check This When You Swap Parts\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStock rebuild where you're just replacing synchros and nothing else? You might be able to reuse the shim that came out. But here's the thing, transmission cases, bearings, synchro hubs, and distance collars can all vary by 0.05mm from Honda's spec. That's just manufacturing tolerance. When you start mixing parts - new clutch case, new bearings, aftermarket synchro hubs - those tiny variances add up and throw your mainshaft thrust out of spec. People rebuild transmissions with expensive Synchrotech or OEM Fresh synchros and don't check the mainshaft thrust. Six months later they're grinding gears or the trans feels tight and notchy because the thrust wasn't set right. If you're swapping the transmission case, replacing bearings, or installing aftermarket gear sets, you have to measure and set the mainshaft thrust. It's not optional.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow to Measure Which Shim You Need\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou need a dial gauge and a mainshaft thrust tool. The thrust tool threads into the mainshaft and lets you pull it up while you measure the movement with the dial gauge. You can't do this accurately without the tool. People try using vice grips to pull on the mainshaft and it doesn't work - you can't get consistent measurements. Here's the process: assemble the mainshaft with the synchro hubs, distance collars, and bearing installed. Install it in the transmission case without the shim or oil guide plate. Bolt the case together, set up your dial gauge, thread the thrust tool into the mainshaft, and pull up while watching the dial gauge. Honda's spec is 0.11mm-0.17mm of movement. Your measurement's outside that range? You need a different thickness shim. Too much movement? Thicker shim. Not enough movement? Thinner shim. You're selecting the shim that gets your thrust clearance into Honda's spec range. It's a pain to measure but it's critical.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda OEM mainshaft thrust shim (individual shim, part number varies by thickness)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAvailable in thicknesses from 0.6mm (0.0236 inch) to 2.25mm (0.0886 inch)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eControls mainshaft thrust clearance (endplay)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eInstalls in transmission case under mainshaft gear set\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCritical for proper gear alignment and bearing life\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Transmissions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2013-2015 Acura ILX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1992-2001 Acura Integra\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2014 Acura TSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2017 Honda Accord (K24)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2001-2005 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2010 Honda Element\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2007-2013 Honda Fit\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2016-2018 Honda HR-V\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2000-2006 Honda Insight\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e These shims are sold individually and you're ordering by thickness. You cannot know which thickness you need until you've measured your actual thrust clearance with the transmission apart and a mainshaft thrust tool. Don't guess. You can't return shims once you've opened them. If you're doing a serious transmission rebuild, buy multiple shim thicknesses so you've got options when you measure. Most transmission builders keep a full set of common thicknesses on hand. You need a mainshaft thrust tool to measure this accurately. Don't try to wing it with vice grips and eyeballing the dial gauge - you're going to get inconsistent measurements and pick the wrong shim. The thrust tool costs maybe $60-100 and it's worth every penny if you're building transmissions. When you're measuring, make sure the bearings are fully seated and the case is torqued together properly. If the bearings aren't pressed all the way in or the case bolts aren't tight, your measurement's wrong. After you've installed the shim and reassembled the transmission, some people pull it back apart and recheck the thrust clearance to verify it's in spec. That's up to you but it's good insurance. If your thrust clearance is way out of spec - like 0.05 inch when it should be 0.005 inch - something's wrong. Either you've got the wrong shim, the bearings aren't seated, or you've got mismatched parts that don't work together. Figure out what's wrong before you button up the trans and fill it with fluid. Wrong mainshaft thrust kills synchros fast and makes the transmission feel terrible to shift.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n   \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e2013-2015 Acura ILX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1992-2001 Acura Integra\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2014 Acura TSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2017 Honda Accord (K24)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2001-2005 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2010 Honda Element\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2007-2013 Honda Fit\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2016-2018 Honda HR-V\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2000-2006 Honda Insight\u003c\/li\u003e \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Mainshaft Thrust Shim*\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-style: italic;\"\u003e*Sold Individually\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Type A - 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1.08mm","offer_id":45269892923426,"sku":"OHA-23947-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type R - 1.11mm","offer_id":45269892956194,"sku":"OHA-23948-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type S - 1.14mm","offer_id":45269892988962,"sku":"OHA-23949-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type T - 1.17mm","offer_id":45269893021730,"sku":"OHA-23950-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type U - 1.20mm","offer_id":45269893054498,"sku":"OHA-23951-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type V - 1.23mm","offer_id":45269893087266,"sku":"OHA-23952-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type W - 1.26mm","offer_id":45269893120034,"sku":"OHA-23953-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type X - 1.29mm","offer_id":45269893152802,"sku":"OHA-23954-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type Y - 1.32mm","offer_id":45269893185570,"sku":"OHA-23955-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type Z - 1.35mm","offer_id":45269893218338,"sku":"OHA-23956-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AA - 1.38mm","offer_id":45269893251106,"sku":"OHA-23957-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AB - 1.41mm","offer_id":45269893283874,"sku":"OHA-23958-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AC - 1.44mm","offer_id":45269893316642,"sku":"OHA-23959-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AD - 1.47mm","offer_id":45269893349410,"sku":"OHA-23960-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AE - 1.50mm","offer_id":45269893382178,"sku":"OHA-23961-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AF - 1.53mm","offer_id":45269893414946,"sku":"OHA-23962-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AG - 1.56mm","offer_id":45269893447714,"sku":"OHA-23963-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AH - 1.59mm","offer_id":45269893480482,"sku":"OHA-23964-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AI - 1.62mm","offer_id":45269893513250,"sku":"OHA-23965-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AJ - 1.65mm","offer_id":45269893546018,"sku":"OHA-23966-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AK - 1.68mm","offer_id":45269893578786,"sku":"OHA-23967-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AL - 1.71mm","offer_id":45269893611554,"sku":"OHA-23968-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AM -1.74mm","offer_id":45269893644322,"sku":"OHA-23969-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AN - 1.77mm","offer_id":45269893677090,"sku":"OHA-23970-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AO - 1.80mm","offer_id":45269893709858,"sku":"OHA-23971-P21-000","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AP - 1.83mm","offer_id":45269893742626,"sku":"OHA-23972-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AQ - 1.86mm","offer_id":45269893775394,"sku":"OHA-23973-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AR - 1.89mm","offer_id":45269893808162,"sku":"OHA-23974-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AS - 1.92mm","offer_id":45269893840930,"sku":"OHA-23975-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AT - 1.95mm","offer_id":45269893873698,"sku":"OHA-23976-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AV - 1.98mm","offer_id":45269893906466,"sku":"OHA-23977-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AW - 2.01mm","offer_id":45269893939234,"sku":"OHA-23978-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AX - 2.04mm","offer_id":45269893972002,"sku":"OHA-23979-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AY - 2.07mm","offer_id":45269894004770,"sku":"OHA-23980-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type AZ - 2.10mm","offer_id":45269894037538,"sku":"OHA-23981-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type BA - 2.13mm","offer_id":45269894070306,"sku":"OHA-23982-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type BB - 2.16mm","offer_id":45269894103074,"sku":"OHA-23983-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type BC - 2.19mm","offer_id":45269894135842,"sku":"OHA-23984-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type BD - 2.22mm","offer_id":45269894168610,"sku":"OHA-23985-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type BE - 2.25mm","offer_id":45269894201378,"sku":"OHA-23986-PPP-J00","price":25.64,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/OHA-23931-P21-000_0idg_ba6505b3-690a-4410-afc7-1771b1660eb2.jpg?v=1790289544"},{"product_id":"honda-d-b-k-l-r-series-differential-thrust-shim","title":"Honda B\/D\/K\/L\/R Transmission Differential Thrust Shim","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine Honda Product \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSold Individually \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDirect Factory Replacement Part \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFits B, D, K, L, and R Series Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHonda B\/D\/K\/L\/R Series Transmission Differential Thrust Shim\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're installing a Quaife, MFactory, or Wavetrac LSD in your transmission and someone told you about differential shims but you have no idea which one you need? Here's the deal, you won't know until the diff's installed and you've measured the gap with a feeler gauge. These OEM differential thrust shims sit on top of the oil seal in the transmission case under the final drive gear set. They control how much the differential can move up and down. Thicknesses range from 1.00mm to 1.80mm with part numbers from 41441-PL3-B00 to 41457-PL3-B00. Honda's spec is 0mm-0.10mm of clearance. If your gap's outside that range, you need a different shim or your transmission case is going to distort when you bolt it together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's What Happens If You Skip This\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe differential sits in bearings on both sides of the trans case. It's got to spin freely but it can't be flopping around. Too much play and the diff's bouncing around in there, the ring gear's not meshing cleanly with the pinion, and you're wearing everything out fast. Not enough clearance - shim's too thick - and the bearings bind up. Now the diff's not spinning smoothly and you're creating heat and friction. Worst case, the transmission case actually distorts when you torque the bolts down because the shim's forcing the bearings apart. That leads to leaks, binding gears, and premature bearing failure. The shim's cheap. The consequences of the wrong shim aren't.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eAftermarket LSDs Aren't the Same Size as Stock\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStock rebuild where you're reusing your factory open diff? You can probably reuse the shim that came out. But the second you're bolting in a Quaife, MFactory, Wavetrac, or even an OEM Type R diff, all bets are off. That aftermarket LSD's housing is a different thickness than stock. Maybe it's 0.03mm thicker, maybe it's 0.08mm. New bearings add more variance. Those tiny differences add up. You button up the trans with the old shim and either the diff's got too much slop or the bearings are binding. We've seen people install expensive LSDs and skip the shimming step. Six months later they're back with leaking transmission cases or the diff's making noise because the clearance was never set right. Same deal if you're swapping final drive gears. Different ring gear, different dimensions. Measure and shim it properly or you're doing the job twice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHow to Figure Out Which Shim You Need\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInstall the diff with the bearings and oil seal. Bolt the transmission case together. Use a soft mallet or driver handle to tap the diff down until it bottoms out in the bearing - you're making sure it's fully seated. Stick a feeler gauge in the gap between the shim and the bearing outer race. Honda says 0mm-0.10mm. Your gap's bigger than 0.10mm? Thicker shim. Can't get a feeler gauge in there? You might need a thinner shim or you're right at spec. You're aiming for as close to zero as possible without binding the diff. Some trans builders actually like to run 0.05mm-0.08mm of clearance with aftermarket LSDs because they've got looser tolerances than OEM diffs. As long as you can't feel any play when you grab the diff and try to move it, you're good.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOne Honda OEM differential thrust shim (part number varies by thickness)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eThicknesses from 1.00mm to 1.80mm in 0.05mm increments\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSits on top of oil seal under final drive gear set\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eControls differential up-and-down movement (thrust)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCritical when installing aftermarket LSDs or final drive gears\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Transmissions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2013-2015 Acura ILX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1990-2001 Acura Integra\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2017-2021 Acura NSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2014 Acura TSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2012 Honda Accord (K24)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1992-1995 Honda Civic Si\/EX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1996-2000 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/HX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2001-2005 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/HX\/LX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2012-2015 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2012-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2011-2016 Honda CR-Z\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1988-1989 Honda CRX Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1993-1997 Honda Del Sol S\/Si\/VTEC\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2010 Honda Element\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2007-2020 Honda Fit\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sold individually by thickness. Buy multiple shims when you're installing an LSD - three or four around 1.20mm-1.40mm - so you've got options when you measure. They're a few bucks each and cheaper than waiting for shipping while your trans is apart. Make sure the diff's fully seated before you measure or your measurement's garbage. This is separate from mainshaft thrust - if you're doing a full rebuild with an LSD, you're shimming both the diff and the mainshaft. Don't confuse the two.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2013-2015 Acura ILX\u003cdiv\u003e1990-2001 Acura Integra\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2017-2021 Acura NSX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type S\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2004-2014 Acura TSX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2012 Honda Accord (K24)\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e1992-1995 Honda Civic Si\/EX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e1996-2000 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/HX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2001-2005 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/HX\/LX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2012-2015 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2012-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2011-2016 Honda CR-Z\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e1988-1989 Honda CRX Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e1993-1997 Honda Del Sol S\/Si\/VTEC\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2010 Honda Element\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2007-2020 Honda Fit\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Differential Thrust Shim*\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-style: italic;\"\u003e*Sold Individually\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Type A - 1.00mm","offer_id":45272387190818,"sku":"OHA-41441-PL3-B00","price":20.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type K - 1.05mm","offer_id":45272387223586,"sku":"OHA-41450-PL3-B00","price":20.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type B - 1.10mm","offer_id":45272387256354,"sku":"OHA-41442-PL3-B00","price":20.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type L - 1.15mm","offer_id":45272387289122,"sku":"OHA-41451-PL3-B00","price":20.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type C - 1.20mm","offer_id":45272387321890,"sku":"OHA-41443-PL3-B00","price":20.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type M - 1.25mm","offer_id":45272387354658,"sku":"OHA-41452-PL3-B00","price":20.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type D - 1.30mm","offer_id":45272387387426,"sku":"OHA-41444-PL3-B00","price":20.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type N - 1.35mm","offer_id":45272387420194,"sku":"OHA-41453-PL3-B00","price":20.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type E - 1.40mm","offer_id":45272387452962,"sku":"OHA-41445-PL3-B00","price":20.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type P - 1.45mm","offer_id":45272387485730,"sku":"OHA-41454-PL3-B00","price":20.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type F - 1.50mm","offer_id":45272387518498,"sku":"OHA-41446-PL3-B00","price":20.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type Q - 1.55mm","offer_id":45272387551266,"sku":"OHA-41455-PL3-B00","price":21.37,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type G - 1.60mm","offer_id":45272387584034,"sku":"OHA-41447-PL3-B00","price":20.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type R - 1.65mm","offer_id":45272387616802,"sku":"OHA-41456-PL3-B00","price":21.37,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type H - 1.70mm","offer_id":45272387649570,"sku":"OHA-41448-PL3-B00","price":20.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type S - 1.75mm","offer_id":45272387682338,"sku":"OHA-41457-PL3-B00","price":21.37,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Type J - 1.80mm","offer_id":45272387715106,"sku":"OHA-41449-PL3-B00","price":20.89,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/OHA-41441-PL3-B00_aibe.jpg?v=1776873668"},{"product_id":"ppg-gears-honda-k-series-awd-transfer-gear-set","title":"PPG Gears K Series AWD Transfer Gear Set","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStraight Cut Gear Set \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with K Series AWD \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFits CRV\/Element or Drag Cartel Transfer Cases \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCapable of Holding Up to 1500 HP \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePPG Gears AWD Transfer Gear Set - Honda K Series\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're running an AWD K series setup and the stock transfer case gears aren't going to last. You're making serious power or you're drag racing and you know the stock gears are the weak point. PPG's AWD Transfer Gear Set replaces the stock cast gears inside your CR-V or Element transfer case with motorsports-grade billet steel gears. These are the gears that live inside the transfer case and take power from your front differential and send it back to the driveshaft. The stock gears are cast. They're fine for a bone-stock CR-V making 160 hp. They're not fine when you're making 600+ whp and launching hard or when you're running 10-second passes. PPG's gears are machined from billet steel. They're rated for 1500 hp. They're designed to work with the Drag Cartel billet transfer case or the stock transfer case housing. You're pulling the transfer case apart and replacing the gears. This is what serious AWD drag racers are running when they're making real power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's What the Transfer Case Does and Why Stock Gears Fail\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe K series AWD transfer case bolts to the back of your CR-V or Element transmission. There's an extra ring gear on the front differential that drives the transfer case. The transfer case takes that power and sends it back to the driveshaft through a set of gears. Those gears are the transfer gears. The stock transfer gears are cast steel. Honda designed them for a stock CR-V that's never going to see more than 200 hp at the crank. When you're making 500-800 whp and you're launching at 6000 RPM with slicks, the stock gears can't handle it. They strip. They crack. They explode. We've seen stock transfer gears fail at 400 whp just from hard launches. The PPG gears are machined from motorsports-grade billet steel. That's the same material PPG uses for drag racing gearsets that are handling 1500+ hp. The gears are stronger. The teeth are thicker. They're not going to strip when you're making boost and dumping the clutch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorks with Stock or Drag Cartel Billet Transfer Case\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePPG's transfer gear set works with the stock CR-V\/Element transfer case housing or with the Drag Cartel billet transfer case. If you're running a stock transfer case and you're just upgrading the gears, you're pulling the case apart, swapping the gears, and bolting it back together. If you're running the Drag Cartel billet transfer case, these gears are designed to drop right in. The PPG transfer gear set works with the PPG transfer case shaft and the PPG hypoid gears. You can buy the complete PPG transfer case combo or you can buy the pieces separately and build it yourself. Most people running serious power are running the full PPG setup. Transfer gears, transfer shaft, and hypoid gears. All billet. All rated for 1500 hp. That's the setup that's surviving in the 8-second and 9-second AWD Hondas that are making 1000+ whp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eThis is for AWD K Series Builds Making Serious Power\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're running an AWD K series swap and you're making over 400 whp, you need to think about upgrading your transfer case internals. The stock gears are the weak point. They're going to fail. It's not a question of if. It's a question of when. PPG's transfer gear set is what you install when you're building the drivetrain to handle the power you're making. If you're turbocharged and you're making 600-800 whp, you need this. If you're drag racing and you're launching hard, you need this. If you're building an AWD setup from scratch and you're planning to make power, install the PPG gears from the beginning. Don't wait for the stock gears to fail and then replace them. The labor to pull the transfer case and replace the gears is the same whether you're doing it proactively or after the stock gears explode. Do it right the first time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePPG AWD transfer gear set for Honda K series\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMotorsports-grade billet steel construction (not cast like stock gears)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1500 hp rating (handles serious power and hard launches)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDirect replacement for stock CR-V\/Element transfer case gears\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks with stock transfer case housing or Drag Cartel billet transfer case\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDesigned to work with PPG transfer case shaft and PPG hypoid gears\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMachined to PPG's racing gearset specifications\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMade by PPG (Pfitzner Performance Gearbox)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Setups\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda CR-V AWD Transfer Case (2002-2006, 5-speed manual)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda Element AWD Transfer Case (2003-2011, 5-speed manual)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDrag Cartel AWD Transfer Case\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Transfer case gears only - does NOT include transfer case housing, transfer shaft, or hypoid gears (sold separately). Replaces stock cast transfer gears with motorsports-grade billet steel gears rated for 1500 hp. Installs inside CR-V or Element AWD transfer case (transfer case bolts to back of transmission and sends power from front differential to rear driveshaft). Works with stock transfer case housing or Drag Cartel billet transfer case. Designed to work with PPG supporting components (PPG transfer case shaft part HO-K4GDB-1258, PPG hypoid gears, PPG transfer crown wheel for differential). Stock gears fail at 400-600 whp from hard launches - PPG gears handle 1500 hp. Common in 8-second and 9-second AWD drag cars making 1000+ whp. Professional installation recommended (requires complete transfer case disassembly). Made by PPG (Pfitzner Performance Gearbox) - same company that builds drag racing dog boxes and sequential gearsets. Fits 2002-2006 CR-V and 2003-2011 Element AWD transmissions and AWD K series swaps using these transmissions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type S\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) AWD Transfer Gear Set\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"PPG","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45354709581858,"sku":"PPG-K4GAWD-RWD-GA","price":1379.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/PPG-K4GAWD-RWD-GA_7f4o.jpg?v=1778289134"},{"product_id":"ppg-gears-k-series-awd-transfer-case-shaft","title":"PPG Gears K Series AWD Transfer Case Shaft","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eReplacement for Stock K Series Shaft \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMotorsports Grade Billet Steel Construction \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with K Series AWD \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDesigned for Extreme Duty Useage \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePPG Gears K Series AWD Transfer Case Shaft\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're building an AWD K series setup for serious power and the stock transfer case shaft isn't going to last. The stock shaft's hollow. It's designed for a CR-V making 160 hp. It's not designed for a turbocharged K24 making 800 whp and launching at 6000 RPM. PPG's transfer case shaft replaces the stock hollow shaft with a solid motorsports-grade billet steel shaft. This is the shaft that runs through the center of your transfer case and connects the hypoid gears to the transfer gears. The stock shaft twists under load. It bends. It snaps. We've seen stock transfer shafts fail at 500 whp just from hard launches. PPG's shaft is machined from billet steel. It's solid. It's not going to twist or bend when you're making boost and dumping the clutch. This is what you install when you're building the transfer case to handle 1000+ hp. It's designed to work with PPG's hypoid gears and PPG's transfer gears or you can use it as an upgraded replacement for the stock shaft in your stock transfer case.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why the Stock Transfer Shaft Fails\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe stock CR-V and Element transfer case shaft is hollow. Honda designed it that way to save weight and cost. It's fine for a stock CR-V that's never going to see more than 200 hp at the crank and never gets launched hard. When you're making 600-1000 whp and you're launching with slicks or you're running hard on a road course, the stock shaft can't handle the torque. It twists under load. The hypoid gears on one end are trying to transfer massive amounts of torque to the transfer gears on the other end and the hollow shaft in the middle is flexing. Eventually it twists enough that it yields. Or it just snaps clean in half. We've seen it happen at drag strips. Car launches hard, transfer shaft breaks, and now you're stuck at the track with a dead transfer case. PPG's shaft is solid billet steel. It's machined from a single piece of motorsports-grade material. It can't twist. It can't flex. It's handling the torque and transferring it straight through without any give.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorks with PPG Hypoid Gears and Transfer Gears\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePPG's transfer case shaft is part number HO-K4GDB-1258. It's designed to work with PPG's hypoid gears (part HO-K4GAWD-HYPOID-GA) and PPG's transfer gears (part HO-K4GAWD-RWD-GA). Most people building serious AWD setups are buying the complete PPG transfer case combo. That's the hypoid gears, the transfer shaft, and the transfer gears. All billet. All rated for extreme duty applications. You can also buy the shaft separately and use it with your stock gears if you're just upgrading the shaft first. But if you're making enough power to need the PPG shaft, you probably need the PPG gears too because the stock gears are going to fail right after the shaft does. The complete PPG setup is what's running in the 8-second and 9-second AWD drag cars. Hypoid gears, transfer shaft, transfer gears, all PPG. That's the combination that's surviving at 1000+ whp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eInstalls in Stock or Drag Cartel Billet Transfer Case\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePPG's transfer shaft works with the stock CR-V\/Element transfer case housing or with the Drag Cartel billet transfer case. If you're building a high-horsepower AWD setup, most people are running the Drag Cartel billet case because the stock aluminum case can crack at high power levels. The Drag Cartel case is machined from billet 8620 steel. It's way stronger than the stock cast aluminum housing. PPG designed their transfer shaft to work with both. You're pulling the transfer case apart, removing the stock shaft, installing the PPG shaft with the PPG gears, and reassembling the case. If you're running the Drag Cartel billet case, everything's designed to work together. If you're running the stock case and just upgrading the internals, the PPG shaft drops right in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePPG K series AWD transfer case shaft - part number HO-K4GDB-1258\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSolid motorsports-grade billet steel construction (not hollow like stock)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDesigned for extreme duty applications (handles 1000+ hp)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDirect replacement for stock CR-V\/Element transfer shaft\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks with PPG hypoid gears (HO-K4GAWD-HYPOID-GA) and PPG transfer gears (HO-K4GAWD-RWD-GA)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCompatible with stock transfer case housing or Drag Cartel billet transfer case\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNo twisting or flexing under high torque loads\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMade by PPG (Pfitzner Performance Gearbox)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Setups\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda CR-V AWD K Series Transfer Case (2002-2006, 5-speed manual)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda Element AWD K Series Transfer Case (2003-2011, 5-speed manual)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOEM or Drag Cartel AWD K Series Transfer Case\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Transfer case shaft only - does NOT include hypoid gears, transfer gears, or transfer case housing (sold separately). Replaces stock hollow transfer shaft with solid motorsports-grade billet steel shaft. Designed for extreme duty applications handling 1000+ hp. Installs inside CR-V or Element AWD transfer case (runs through center of case connecting hypoid gears to transfer gears). Stock hollow shaft twists and fails at 500-600 whp under hard launches - PPG solid billet shaft handles 1000+ hp without flexing. Part number HO-K4GDB-1258. Works with PPG hypoid gears (HO-K4GAWD-HYPOID-GA) and PPG transfer gears (HO-K4GAWD-RWD-GA) or can be used as upgraded replacement for stock shaft with stock gears. Compatible with stock aluminum transfer case housing or Drag Cartel billet 8620 steel transfer case. Common in 8-second and 9-second AWD drag cars making 1000+ whp when combined with complete PPG transfer case internals. Professional installation recommended (requires complete transfer case disassembly). Made by PPG (Pfitzner Performance Gearbox). Fits 2002-2006 CR-V and 2003-2011 Element AWD transmissions and AWD K series swaps using these transmissions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) AWD K Series Transfer Case Shaft\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"PPG","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45354818895906,"sku":"PPG-HO-K4GDB-1258","price":949.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/PPG-HO-K4GDB-1258_gb6n.jpg?v=1778290444"},{"product_id":"ppg-gears-k-series-awd-transfer-case-hypoid-gears","title":"PPG Gears K Series AWD Transfer Case Hypoid Gears","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDesigned for Extreme Duty Applications \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with AWD K Series Setups \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWorks with Drag Cartel Transfer Case \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNot Intended for Street Applications \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e  \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#InstallGuide\"\u003eInstall Guide\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePPG Gears K Series AWD Transfer Case Hypoid Gears (Spider Gears)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're building an AWD K series setup for serious power and the stock transfer case hypoid gears aren't going to survive. The stock hypoid gears are cast. They're designed for a CR-V making 160 hp and driving to the grocery store. They're not designed for a turbocharged K24 making 800 whp and launching at 6000 RPM on slicks. PPG's hypoid gear set replaces the stock cast hypoid gears with motorsports-grade billet steel gears. These are the gears that change the direction of power 90 degrees inside your transfer case. They take power from the front differential's ring gear and transfer it to the transfer case shaft that drives the driveshaft. The stock gears strip. They crack. They explode under high torque loads. We've seen stock hypoid gears fail at 500 whp from hard launches. PPG's hypoid gears are machined from billet steel. They're built to handle extreme duty applications. This is what you install when you're making 1000+ hp and you need the transfer case to actually survive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's What Hypoid Gears Do and Why Stock Ones Fail\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHypoid gears are a type of spiral bevel gear where the pinion (small gear) and the ring gear (large gear) have offset axes that don't intersect. That offset design lets the gears handle way more torque than regular bevel gears because there's more tooth contact area and the pinion can be larger. In your AWD transfer case, the hypoid gears are what connect the front differential to the transfer case shaft. The differential's got an extra ring gear on it that drives the hypoid pinion. The hypoid pinion meshes with the hypoid ring gear. The ring gear's mounted to the transfer case shaft. That's how power gets from the front wheels to the rear driveshaft. It's a 90-degree change in direction. The stock hypoid gears are cast steel. Honda designed them for a stock CR-V that's never going to see hard launches or high power. When you're making 600-1000 whp and you're launching hard, the stock gears can't handle the torque. The teeth strip. The gears crack. Sometimes they just explode and take out the entire transfer case. PPG's hypoid gears are machined from motorsports-grade billet steel. The teeth are thicker. The material's stronger. They're not going to strip when you're making boost and dumping the clutch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eInstallation Requires Precise Shimming and Setup\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHere's the reality about hypoid gears. They're not a drop-in part. You can't just pull the stock gears out and bolt the PPG gears in. Hypoid gears require precise backlash and preload settings. The backlash needs to be between 0.05mm and 0.10mm. The preload on the driven wheel shaft needs to be around 2 newton-meters. The preload on the drive gear shaft needs to be set correctly. You need to check the contact patch on the gear teeth to make sure the gears are meshing correctly. If the contact patch is off, you're adjusting shims until it's in the center of the tooth face. PPG includes an installation kit with bearing spacers, cups, cones, and shims. They also provide detailed installation instructions. Professional installation's highly recommended. This isn't a job you're doing in your driveway with basic tools. This is a job that requires a dial indicator, a torque wrench, gear marking compound, and someone who knows how to set up hypoid gears. If the setup's wrong, the gears will whine. They'll wear prematurely. They'll fail. Do it right or pay someone who knows what they're doing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorks with PPG Transfer Shaft and Transfer Gears\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePPG's hypoid gear set is part number HO-K4GAWD-Spider-GA. It's designed to work with PPG's transfer case shaft (HO-K4GDB-1258) and PPG's transfer gears (HO-K4GAWD-RWD-GA). Most people building serious AWD setups are buying the complete PPG transfer case combo. That's the hypoid gears, the transfer shaft, and the transfer gears. All billet. All designed to work together. You can buy the hypoid gears separately but if you're making enough power to need the PPG hypoid gears, you probably need the PPG shaft and transfer gears too. The stock shaft's hollow and it twists. The stock transfer gears are cast and they strip. Upgrade the whole system at once. The complete PPG setup is what's running in the 8-second and 9-second AWD drag cars. Hypoid gears, transfer shaft, transfer gears, all PPG. All built to handle 1000+ hp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePPG K series AWD transfer case hypoid gear set - part number HO-K4GAWD-Spider-GA\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMotorsports-grade billet steel construction (not cast like stock gears)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDesigned for extreme duty applications (handles 1000+ hp)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDirect replacement for stock CR-V\/Element transfer case hypoid gears\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eIncludes installation kit (bearing spacers, cups, cones, shims)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDetailed installation instructions included (requires precise shimming and setup)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks with PPG transfer shaft (HO-K4GDB-1258) and PPG transfer gears (HO-K4GAWD-RWD-GA)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCompatible with stock transfer case housing or Drag Cartel billet transfer case\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMade by PPG (Pfitzner Performance Gearbox)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Setups\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda CR-V AWD K Series Transfer Case (2002-2006, 5-speed manual)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHonda Element AWD K Series Transfer Case (2003-2011, 5-speed manual)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDrag Cartel Transfer Case\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Hypoid gears only - does NOT include transfer case housing, transfer shaft, or transfer gears (sold separately). Also called spider gears. Replaces stock cast hypoid gears with motorsports-grade billet steel gears. Hypoid gears change power direction 90 degrees from front differential ring gear to transfer case shaft (which drives rear driveshaft). Stock gears fail at 500-600 whp from hard launches - PPG gears handle 1000+ hp. Part number HO-K4GAWD-Spider-GA. Includes installation kit with bearing spacers, cups, cones, and shims. Requires precise setup - backlash 0.05-0.10mm, preload 2Nm on driven wheel shaft, contact patch must be centered on tooth face. Professional installation HIGHLY recommended (requires dial indicator, torque wrench, gear marking compound, hypoid gear setup knowledge). Incorrect setup causes whine, premature wear, and failure. Works with PPG transfer shaft (HO-K4GDB-1258) and PPG transfer gears (HO-K4GAWD-RWD-GA). Compatible with stock aluminum transfer case housing or Drag Cartel billet 8620 steel transfer case. Common in 8-second and 9-second AWD drag cars when combined with complete PPG transfer case internals. Made by PPG (Pfitzner Performance Gearbox). Fits 2002-2006 CR-V and 2003-2011 Element AWD transmissions and AWD K series swaps using these transmissions. Race application only - not for street use per PPG installation instructions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Input Hypoid Gear\u003cdiv\u003e(1) Output Hypoid Gear\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e(1) 35mm Bearing Spacer\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e(1) Driven Gear Shaft Spacer\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e(1) Cup\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e(1) Cone\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003cli id=\"InstallGuide\"\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/Honda_K-Series_Transfer_Case_Installation_Manual_2021.pdf?v=1778346784\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePPG Hypoid Gears Install\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"PPG","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45357661126690,"sku":"PPG-HO-K4GDB-1259","price":2189.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/PPG-HO-K4GDB-1259_omod.jpg?v=1778347095"},{"product_id":"quaife-k-series-fwd-awd-limited-slip-differential","title":"Quaife FWD\/AWD Limited Slip Differential for K Series","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with K20A, K20Z, and K24A Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWorks with FWD or AWD K Series \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHelical Style LSD \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAutomatic Torque Bias to One Wheel \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eQuaife ATB Helical LSD - Honda\/Acura K Series FWD\/AWD\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're running a K series and you're spinning one wheel. You're launching and the inside wheel's just lighting up while the outside wheel sits there doing nothing. You're coming out of a corner hard and the power's going to the wheel that's in the air instead of the wheel that's on the ground. That's what an open differential does. It sends power to the wheel with the least resistance. It's garbage for performance driving. Quaife's ATB helical LSD replaces your stock open differential with a gear-type limited slip that automatically sends torque to the wheel with traction. No clutch packs. No preload. No maintenance. Just helical gears that bias torque away from the spinning wheel and send it to the wheel that can use it. You're launching and both wheels are hooking. You're coming out of corners and the power's going where it's supposed to go. This is a direct bolt-in for K series FWD and AWD transmissions. It's what you install when you're done lighting up one tire and you're ready to actually put the power down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why Your Stock Open Differential Is Killing Your Performance\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe stock K series differential is an open diff. It's designed to let the wheels turn at different speeds when you're going around corners. That's fine for driving to the grocery store. It's terrible for performance driving. Here's what happens when you've got power and you're trying to use it. You launch hard. The inside wheel breaks loose because there's less weight on it. The open diff sends all the power to that wheel because it's got less resistance. Now you're sitting there spinning one wheel and going nowhere. Or you're coming out of a corner on the throttle. The inside wheel lifts slightly. The open diff dumps all the power to that wheel. It spins. You get wheelspin. You get torque steer. You get the car pulling to one side. You're fighting the steering wheel instead of driving the car. Quaife's helical LSD fixes that. It's a gear-type differential that uses helical gears to transfer torque from the wheel that's slipping to the wheel that's gripping. You launch and both wheels are putting power down. You're coming out of corners and the power's going to the wheel with traction. The car goes straight. The steering feels connected. You're actually using the power you're making instead of spinning it away on one tire.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHelical Gears Instead of Clutch Packs - No Maintenance, No Preload\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMost aftermarket LSDs use clutch packs. They work but they've got problems. Clutch-type LSDs have a preload. That's a set amount of resistance before the diff lets the wheels slip. The preload's there all the time. It makes the car feel tight in parking lots. It makes the steering feel heavy at low speeds. The clutch packs wear out. You're rebuilding the diff every 20,000-30,000 miles and replacing the clutch packs and shimming the preload back to spec. Quaife's ATB helical LSD doesn't use clutch packs. It uses helical-cut gears. The gears mesh together at an angle. When one wheel starts to spin, the helical gears create a force that pushes torque to the other wheel. The amount of torque transfer varies constantly based on how much the wheels are slipping. There's no set preload. There's no harsh locking like a clutch-type LSD. The diff feels like an open diff in parking lots and at low speeds. Then when you're on the throttle hard and one wheel's trying to spin, the helical gears automatically send the torque to the wheel with grip. It's seamless. It's progressive. It just works. And because there's no clutch packs, there's no maintenance. You're running your stock transmission fluid. You're not rebuilding the diff. You're just driving it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorks in FWD and AWD K Series Transmissions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eQuaife's ATB helical LSD is part number QDF21U and it fits both FWD and AWD K series transmissions. If you're running an RSX, an EP3, an FA5, an FG2, an FK8, an FL5, or any other FWD K series car, this diff bolts right in. If you're running an AWD setup with a CR-V or Element transmission, this diff bolts right in. It's a direct replacement for the stock open differential. You're pulling the transmission, opening it up, pulling the stock diff, installing the Quaife, and reassembling the trans. The Quaife uses the stock ring gear. It bolts to the stock case. It uses the stock bearings. Everything fits like OEM. Installation's straightforward if you've done transmission work before. The diff's been proven in everything from street cars to road race cars to drag cars. We've seen Quaife diffs run in 500+ whp FWD cars running 10-second passes. We've seen them in AWD drag cars making 800+ whp. They work. They last. They don't require rebuilds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBuilt from Billet Steel and Machined to Tight Tolerances\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eQuaife machines this diff from Corus steel billets. That's not cast iron like some cheap LSDs. That's billet steel. The gears are CAD-designed and CNC-machined. Every gear's cut to tight tolerances. The diff's inspected to ISO 9001 standards before it ships. Quaife's been building helical LSDs since the 1960s. They know what they're doing. This isn't some no-name LSD that's going to break when you launch hard. This is a Quaife. It's proven in circuit racing, drag racing, rally, and street use. The diff's been tortured in every possible application and it holds up. You're not worrying about the LSD anymore. You're worrying about other parts of the car because the Quaife's just working.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eQuaife ATB helical LSD - part number QDF21U\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDirect replacement for stock K series open differential (FWD and AWD)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHelical gear-type LSD (no clutch packs, no preload, no maintenance)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAutomatically biases torque to the wheel with traction\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eProgressive torque transfer (never locks harshly like clutch-type LSDs)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eEliminates one-wheel wheelspin and torque steer\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUses stock transmission fluid (no special LSD fluid required)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMachined from Corus steel billets (CAD-designed, CNC-machined)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eISO 9001 certified manufacturing\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eProven in circuit racing, drag racing, rally, and street use\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMade by Quaife\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Cars\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX (all trims, FWD K series)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si (EP3, FWD K series)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si (FG2\/FA5, FWD K series)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2012-2015 Honda Civic Si (FB6\/FG4, FWD K series)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2017-2021 Honda Civic Type R (FK8, FWD K series)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2023-2024 Honda Civic Type R (FL5, FWD K series)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2023-2024 Acura Integra (FWD K series)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V (AWD K series)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element (AWD K series)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eK series swaps (FWD and AWD)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Direct bolt-in replacement for stock K series open differential (FWD and AWD applications). Helical gear-type LSD with no clutch packs (no preload, no maintenance, no rebuilds). Uses stock transmission fluid. Automatically transfers torque from spinning wheel to wheel with traction (progressive engagement, never locks harshly). Eliminates one-wheel wheelspin, reduces torque steer in FWD applications. Machined from Corus steel billets with CAD design and CNC machining. ISO 9001 certified. Proven in 500+ whp FWD builds and 800+ whp AWD builds. Requires transmission removal and disassembly for installation. Uses stock ring gear and bearings. Professional installation recommended. Made by Quaife. Part number QDF21U. Fits all K series FWD transmissions (RSX, EP3, FA5, FG2, FB6, FK8, FL5, Integra) and AWD transmissions (CR-V, Element).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2002-2006 Acura RSX\u003cdiv\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Limited Slip Differential\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Quaife","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45357826179106,"sku":"QFE-QDF9U","price":1199.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/QFE-QDF9U_tc59.jpg?v=1778352435"},{"product_id":"ppg-gears-honda-k-series-final-drive","title":"PPG Gears Straight Cut Final Drive Gears for K Series","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMultiple Final Drive Ratios Available \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with FWD and AWD Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFits Most K Series Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eStraight Cut Gear Set \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e  \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#TechnicalData\"\u003eTechnical Data\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePPG K Series Final Drive Gear Set - Honda\/Acura K Series FWD\/AWD\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour K series transmission's got a stock final drive that's fine for a bone-stock car making 200 hp. It's not fine when you're making 500+ whp or running 10-second passes. The stock final drive gears are cast. They're designed for economy car duty. When you're launching hard or running boost, the stock gears can't handle it. They strip. They break teeth. They fail. PPG's K series final drive gear set replaces the stock cast gears with straight-cut motorsports-grade gears. These are the same gears PPG's building for their drag race gearsets. Straight-cut gears are stronger than helical gears and they reduce drivetrain power loss. You're getting more power to the wheels and you're getting gears that'll survive when you're making serious power. PPG's final drive is available in five ratios: 4.25, 4.40, 4.50, 4.61, and 4.76. Pick the ratio that matches your build. Short gears for drag racing. Taller gears for road racing. PPG's got you covered.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why the Stock Final Drive Fails\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe stock K series final drive uses cast helical gears. Helical gears are quieter than straight-cut gears but they're weaker. The helical angle puts side loads on the gears that don't exist with straight-cut gears. When you're making big power and launching hard, those side loads combine with the torque loads and the gears can't handle it. The teeth strip. The gears crack. We've seen stock K series final drives fail at 400 whp just from hard launches. If you're making 600+ whp or you're drag racing, the stock final drive's living on borrowed time. PPG's final drive uses straight-cut gears. Straight-cut gears are stronger because the tooth engagement is perpendicular to the gear face. There's no side load. All the force is going into rotating the gear instead of trying to push the gears apart. The gears are also machined from billet steel instead of cast. They're way stronger than the stock gears. They'll handle 1000+ hp without blinking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFive Ratio Options - Pick What Fits Your Build\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePPG offers the K series final drive in five ratios. Each ratio changes how quickly the gears multiply engine torque. Higher numerical ratio means more mechanical advantage and quicker acceleration but lower top speed in each gear. Lower numerical ratio means less mechanical advantage and slower acceleration but higher top speed in each gear. Here's how to pick. If you're drag racing and you want the quickest ET possible, go with the 4.76 final drive. That's the shortest gear. Maximum acceleration. You'll be shifting more but you'll be accelerating harder. If you're road racing or running time attack and you need a balance between acceleration and top speed, the 4.40 or 4.50 final drives work well. They're not as short as the drag gears but they're not as tall as the stock final drive. If you're building an all-motor car and you want to stay in the powerband, the 4.61 is popular. It lets you shift through the gears and keep the engine above VTEC crossover. The 4.25 is the tallest option PPG offers. It's still shorter than some stock final drives but it gives you more top speed in each gear than the other options.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eStraight-Cut Gears Reduce Power Loss\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStraight-cut gears are more efficient than helical gears. Helical gears have an angled tooth face. That angle creates a side load that pushes the gears apart. The bearings have to resist that side load which creates friction and parasitic power loss. Straight-cut gears have teeth that run straight across the gear face. There's no side load. The bearings aren't fighting to keep the gears together. You're losing less power to friction. The difference isn't huge but when you're chasing every horsepower, it matters. Straight-cut gears are also louder than helical gears. There's more gear whine. That's not a defect. That's the sound of straight-cut gears engaging. If you're building a daily driver and you want it to be quiet, stick with the stock helical final drive. If you're building a race car and you care more about power delivery than noise, PPG's straight-cut final drive is what you want.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorks with Stock Gearset or PPG Drag Gears\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePPG's final drive works with your stock 1st through 5th gears or with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/ppg-1-4-synchro-mesh-gear-kit-honda-k-series?_pos=4\u0026amp;_sid=4509a8258\u0026amp;_ss=r\u0026amp;variant=44603290353698\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePPG's drag race gearsets\u003c\/a\u003e. If you're just upgrading the final drive and keeping the stock transmission gears, this final drive bolts right in. You're replacing the final drive crown wheel and pinion with the PPG gears and reassembling the transmission. If you're building a full PPG drag transmission with PPG's 1st through 4th drag gears, the PPG final drive is designed to work with that gearset. Most people running PPG final drives are either building full race transmissions with PPG drag gears or they're upgrading the final drive on an otherwise stock transmission because the stock final drive failed or because they want shorter gears for drag racing. Either way works. The PPG final drive's a direct replacement for the stock final drive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eRequires OEM Honda Pinion Shaft Bearing\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePPG's final drive requires an OEM Honda pinion shaft bearing. That's Honda part number 91003-PPP-004. The bearing's not included with the PPG final drive. You're sourcing it separately. Don't reuse your old bearing. The old bearing's been loaded for however many miles the transmission's got on it. Install a fresh bearing when you install the PPG final drive. Professional installation's highly recommended. You're pulling the transmission apart, removing the stock final drive, installing the PPG final drive with the new bearing, shimming everything correctly, and reassembling the transmission. If you've never built a transmission before, this isn't the time to learn. Pay someone who knows what they're doing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePPG K series final drive gear set (choose ratio: 4.25, 4.40, 4.50, 4.61, or 4.76)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eStraight-cut motorsports-grade gears (not helical like stock)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMachined from billet steel (stronger than cast stock gears)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDirect replacement for stock K series final drive\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks with stock transmission gears or PPG drag race gearsets\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eReduces drivetrain power loss compared to helical gears\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDesigned using same profiles as PPG drag race gearsets\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMade by PPG (Pfitzner Performance Gearbox)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFinal Drive Ratio Options\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e4.25\u003c\/strong\u003e - Tallest ratio, highest top speed in each gear, slowest acceleration. Good for road racing where top speed matters.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e4.40\u003c\/strong\u003e - Balanced ratio for road racing and time attack. Good acceleration with reasonable top speed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e4.50\u003c\/strong\u003e - Slightly shorter than 4.40. Popular for street\/track builds that want more acceleration than stock.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e4.61\u003c\/strong\u003e - Short ratio for all-motor builds. Keeps engine above VTEC crossover through gear changes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e4.76\u003c\/strong\u003e - Shortest ratio, maximum acceleration, lowest top speed. Drag racing gear.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Transmissions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type-S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2012-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V FWD\/AWD\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Straight-cut gears (louder than stock helical gears, more gear whine). Requires \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-k20a3-k20z1-k20z3-transmission-needle-bearing-91003-ppp-004?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=fec83b722\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eOEM Honda pinion shaft bearing 91003-PPP-004\u003c\/a\u003e (sold separately, do NOT reuse old bearing). Professional installation highly recommended (requires complete transmission disassembly, shimming, and reassembly). Works with stock transmission gears or PPG drag race gearsets. Stock cast final drive fails at 400-600 whp - PPG billet steel final drive handles 1000+ hp. Choose ratio based on application: 4.76 for drag racing (shortest, max acceleration), 4.61 for all-motor builds (keeps engine above VTEC), 4.40\/4.50 for road racing\/time attack (balanced), 4.25 for highest top speed. Straight-cut gears reduce drivetrain power loss compared to helical gears (more efficient, less side load on bearings). Designed using same profiles as PPG drag race gearsets. Fits all K series FWD and AWD transmissions 2002-2015.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type S\u003cdiv\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\u003cli id=\"TechnicalData\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003c!--StartFragment--\u003eRequires: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-k20a3-k20z1-k20z3-transmission-needle-bearing-91003-ppp-004?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=fec83b722\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e91003-PPP-004\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c!--EndFragment--\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c!--EndFragment--\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Final Drive Gear Set\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"PPG","offers":[{"title":"4.25","offer_id":45368370331682,"sku":"PPG-K5SPD-FD4.25-GA","price":1889.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"4.40","offer_id":45368370364450,"sku":"PPG-K5SPD-FD4.4-GA","price":1889.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"4.50","offer_id":45368370397218,"sku":"PPG-K5SPD-FD4.50-GA","price":1889.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"4.61","offer_id":45368370429986,"sku":"PPG-K5SPD-FD4.61-GA","price":1889.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"4.76","offer_id":45368370462754,"sku":"PPG-K5SPD-FD4.76-GA","price":1889.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/ppg-gears-honda-k-series-final_024a.jpg?v=1778611002"},{"product_id":"wavetrac-limited-slip-differential-b16-b17-b18","title":"Wavetrac Limited Slip Different for B16A\/B17A\/B18A\/B18B","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with B16A, B17A, B18A, and B18B Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eImproves Grip in Low Traction Conditions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHelical Gear Differential \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with Manual Transmissions Only \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWavetrac Limited Slip Differential - Honda B16A\/B17A\/B18A\/B18B (60.309.160WK)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Ever floor it coming out of a corner and feel the inside front wheel just light up while the car barely\n  moves? That's your open diff doing exactly what open diffs do, sending power to whichever wheel has the\n  least grip. The Wavetrac fixes that. It's a helical gear limited slip differential, built from the\n  ground up by Autotech Driveline in the USA, and it's become the go-to swap for anyone running a B-series\n  who's tired of one-wheel burnouts on the way out of every turn. Drop it in and that power finally goes\n  where it can do something, both front wheels pulling instead of one wheel spinning and the other just\n  along for the ride.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHere's Why An Open Diff Holds You Back\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  An open diff sends power to the wheel that's easiest to spin, which sounds harmless until you're\n  loading up the chassis mid-corner and your inside wheel lifts or unloads. At that exact moment, an open\n  diff just gives up on that wheel and dumps all the power into spinning it uselessly, so you get wheel\n  hop, a chirp from the tire, and a car that doesn't pull out of the corner the way it should. Cheaper\n  clutch-type LSDs help, but they wear out, get grabby, and need fluid changes to keep working. You feel\n  it most in a front-wheel-drive car with real power, because that's exactly when an open diff costs you\n  the most.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBuilt To Keep Working When Other Diffs Quit\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  This is where the Wavetrac earns its reputation. Most gear-type LSDs, including Torsen and Quaife\n  style units, go quiet the instant a wheel unloads, the same problem as an open diff, just less often.\n  Wavetrac's patented wave profile is built specifically to solve that. As the side gears rotate against\n  each other under a near-zero load, the wave ramps climb and push the gears apart, which creates\n  internal load and keeps both wheels driving instead of letting one spin free. It kicks in automatically\n  whenever the car needs it and backs off the rest of the time, so the car still drives normally around\n  town. You get the grip when you're pushing and none of the clunky behavior when you're not.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003e9310 Steel Gears, ARP Fasteners, Built To Outlast The Car\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  The internals are 9310 alloy steel, the same high-strength gear material used in serious motorsport\n  applications, run inside a case-hardened steel body. Every fastener is ARP, so nothing in this diff is\n  the weak link. It's a gear diff with no clutch packs to wear out and no fluid additive to chase, so it's\n  built to run the life of the car without a rebuild. Autotech Driveline backs every Wavetrac with a\n  transferable Limited Lifetime Warranty, which tells you how confident they are that this thing isn't\n  coming back.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eDrops Into Your B-Series Case\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  This Wavetrac is built for the 4.33 inch ring gear B-series case, so it covers a wide spread of Civic,\n  Integra, and Del Sol applications running the B16A, B17A, B18A, or B18B. If your car's already making\n  good power, or you're planning to, this is the diff that lets that power actually get to the ground\n  instead of getting wasted on the inside wheel. Heads up before you order: this is the diff itself, you'll\n  still need to press it into your existing differential case during a transmission rebuild, so plan the\n  install around that.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Cars\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1990-2001 Acura Integra GS\/LS\/RS (B18A\/B18B)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1992-1993 Acura Integra GS-R (B17A)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si (B16A)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC (B16A)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWavetrac helical gear limited slip differential (60.309.160WK)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFits the 4.33 inch ring gear B-series case\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePatented wave profile design for grip during near-zero load conditions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e9310 alloy steel gears in a case-hardened steel body\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eARP fasteners throughout\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDesigned, developed, and manufactured in the USA by Autotech Driveline\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMaintenance free, no rebuilds needed under normal use\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eTransferable Limited Lifetime Warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Note: Wavetrac limited slip differential (part number 60.309.160WK) for the Honda B16A, B17A, B18A, and\n  B18B, fitting the 4.33 inch ring gear case. Covers the 1990-2001 Acura Integra GS\/LS\/RS, 1992-1993 Acura\n  Integra GS-R, 1999-2000 Honda Civic Si, and 1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC. Uses a patented wave profile\n  on the side gears to maintain drive during near-zero axle load conditions, unlike standard open diffs\n  and other gear-type LSDs. Built from 9310 alloy steel gears in a case-hardened steel body with ARP\n  fasteners throughout, designed and manufactured in the USA by Autotech Driveline. Maintenance free with\n  no rebuilds needed under normal use, backed by a transferable Limited Lifetime Warranty. Installs into\n  your existing differential case during a transmission rebuild. One differential per order.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 1990-2001 Acura Integra GS\/LS\/RS\u003cdiv\u003e1992-1993 Acura Integra GS-R\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Limited Slip Differential\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Wavetrac","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45783779508258,"sku":"WAV-60309160WK","price":885.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/wavetrac-limited-slip-differen_hv0k.jpg?v=1786476867"},{"product_id":"honda-k-j-series-countershaft-left-hand-thread-bolt-90011-ppp-000","title":"Honda K Series Countershaft Reverse Thread Bolt 90011-PPP-000","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine Honda Product \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDirect Factory Replacement Part \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFitments for K20A, K20Z, K24A, K24Z, and J Series Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpecial Left Hand Thread Bolt \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHonda K\/J Series Countershaft Bolt - Genuine OEM, Left-Hand Thread (90011-PPP-000)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Deep into a Honda manual transmission and staring down the countershaft bolt? Stop and read this first,\n  because it'll save you a snapped bolt and a wrecked afternoon: this thing is a left-hand thread. Reverse\n  thread. It loosens the \"wrong\" way. This is the genuine Honda replacement, part 90011-PPP-000, the special\n  20x25 bolt that lives on the end of your countershaft, and it's not a bolt you want to reuse or guess your\n  way through.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eRead This: It's A Left-Hand Thread\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Here's the one thing everybody needs to know about this bolt, and the thing that catches people who don't\n  do their homework. It's a left-hand (reverse) thread, so everything you've got burned into muscle memory\n  is backwards here. To loosen it, you turn it clockwise. To tighten it, you turn it counterclockwise. Crank\n  on it the normal \"lefty-loosey\" way and all you're doing is torquing it tighter, and on a bolt that's\n  already torqued down hard, that's how you round it off or snap it clean. You'll want a 12mm hex key or hex\n  socket to get on it. Just remember it's reverse thread before you put any muscle into it and you're golden.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat It Is And When You Replace It\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  This is the special bolt that clamps the bearing and gear stack onto the end of your countershaft inside\n  the manual transmission, so it's buried in there, you only meet it when you're doing real gearbox work.\n  Most people run into it during a 6-speed conversion, the 1-2 synchro sleeve TSB fix, or any time they're\n  servicing the countershaft bearings or gears. And here's the part that matters: Honda treats this as a\n  one-time-use bolt. When you pull the countershaft apart, you discard the old special bolt and put a fresh\n  one in on reassembly, you don't reuse it. So if you're in there doing the job, this is the new bolt that\n  goes back in.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eGenuine Honda, Correct Part\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  This is the real Honda piece, the actual countershaft special bolt (Honda calls it \"Bolt, Special 20x25\"),\n  not a substitute you're hoping fits. It's the correct left-hand thread, the correct size, and it's a\n  shared part across a huge range of K-series and J-series Honda and Acura manual transmissions, so it's the\n  right bolt whether you're in an RSX, a Civic Si, a TSX, or a Type R gearbox.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eGenuine Honda countershaft special bolt (90011-PPP-000), \"Bolt, Special 20x25\"\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eLeft-hand (reverse) thread\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eClamps the bearing\/gear stack on the countershaft in the manual transmission\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOne-time-use bolt, replace it during countershaft work\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDirect OEM replacement\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSold individually\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Cars\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003 Acura CL Type S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2013-2015 Acura ILX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2023-2026 Acura Integra Base\/A-Spec\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2024-2026 Acura Integra Type S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type S\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2014 Acura TL\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2004-2014 Acura TSX\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2017 Honda Accord (K24)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2017 Honda Accord V6\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2018-2020 Honda Accord 2.0T\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2016-2026 Honda Civic LX\/EX\/Sport\/Si\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2017-2026 Honda Civic Type R\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2003-2010 Honda Element\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2016-2018 Honda HR-V\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Note: Genuine Honda countershaft special bolt, part number 90011-PPP-000 (Honda \"Bolt, Special 20x25\").\n  This is a left-hand (reverse) thread bolt that clamps the bearing and gear stack onto the countershaft in\n  the manual transmission, so it loosens clockwise and tightens counterclockwise, use a 12mm hex key or\n  socket and remember it's reverse thread to avoid snapping it. It's a one-time-use bolt that Honda specifies\n  you replace (not reuse) during countershaft work such as a 6-speed conversion, the 1-2 synchro sleeve TSB,\n  or countershaft bearing and gear service. Fits a wide range of K-series and J-series manual transmissions,\n  including the 2003 Acura CL Type S, 2013-2015 Acura ILX, 2023-2026 Acura Integra (Base\/A-Spec and Type S),\n  2002-2006 Acura RSX, 2004-2014 Acura TL, 2004-2014 Acura TSX, 2003-2017 Honda Accord (K24 and V6),\n  2018-2020 Honda Accord 2.0T, 2002-2015 and 2016-2026 Honda Civic (including Si), 2017-2026 Honda Civic Type\n  R, 2002-2006 Honda CR-V, 2003-2010 Honda Element, and 2016-2018 Honda HR-V. Direct OEM replacement, sold\n  individually. One bolt per order.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n 2003 Acura CL Type S\u003cdiv\u003e2013-2015 Acura ILX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2023-2026 Acura Integra Base\/ASpec\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2024-2026 Acura Integra Type S\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type S\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2004-2014 Acura TL\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2004-2014 Acura TSX\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2017 Honda Accord (K24)\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2017 Honda Accord V6\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2018-2020 Honda Accord 2.0T\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2016-20206 Honda Civic LX\/EX\/Sport\/Si\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2017-2026 Honda Civic Type R\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2002-2006 Honda CR-V\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2003-2010 Honda Element\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e2016-2018 Honda HR-V\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n(1) Countershaft Left Hand Thread Bolt\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45864148107298,"sku":"OHA-90011-PPP-000","price":24.69,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/OvKk9poASwiEPUsM3Rf_022_S_-_P1_processed.png?v=1782936660"},{"product_id":"speedfactory-transmission-bellhousing-awd-bseries","title":"SpeedFactory AWD B Series Billet Bellhousing","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with B Series AWD \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDesigned for Drag Racing and Extreme Use \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHeavy Duty Bell Housing Capable of Holding 2000HP \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTransmission Shimming to OE Specs Required for Installation \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e  \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#TechnicalData\"\u003eTechnical Data\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSpeedFactory AWD B-Series Billet Transmission Bellhousing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Building a big-power AWD B-series drag trans and worried the factory cast bellhousing is the weak link\n  waiting to let go? It is, and this is the fix. The SpeedFactory AWD B-series billet bellhousing is machined\n  from solid aluminum to take the kind of power and abuse that turns a stock cast housing into shrapnel. This\n  isn't a theory part, either, it's the exact housing under SpeedFactory's own 2000-horsepower, 6-second\n  B-series Outlaw drag car. If it survives that, it'll survive your build.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy Billet, And Why The Cast One Fails\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Here's the deal with the factory piece. The OEM bellhousing is cast, and cast aluminum just isn't built for\n  the loads a high-power AWD B-series build throws at it, once you're making real power, it flexes and cracks,\n  and when your bellhousing lets go, the whole transmission goes with it. This one is CNC machined from solid\n  6061-T6 aluminum billet to extremely tight tolerances, so instead of a porous casting, you've got a dense,\n  solid chunk of aluminum holding everything in place. It handles extreme power and the most brutal\n  top-tier racing abuse, and it does all that while only being about 9 lbs heavier than the flimsy stock\n  housing. That's a tiny weight penalty for night-and-day strength.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eProven Where It Counts\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  This is where the SpeedFactory name really matters. They didn't just machine a housing and hope, they proved\n  it under their own 2000hp, 6-second AWD B-series Outlaw car, one of the hardest environments you can put a\n  transmission through. That track record is exactly why several other top teams and shops now base their AWD\n  B-series race transmission builds on this very housing. When the best builders in the game make your part the\n  foundation of their builds, that tells you what you're getting.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eDesigned To Actually Build Right\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Anybody can machine a block of aluminum, but the details are what make this one a dream to build instead of a\n  fight. SpeedFactory baked in the stuff that other billet housings get wrong:\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eA modified countershaft bearing retention plate location that clears larger-diameter aftermarket\n  countershaft teeth, while still keeping the OEM plate and locking tab, no grinding or modification needed\n  (2022+ update).\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eClearance for oversized (versus stock) PPG crown wheel and transfer drive gear, so your big aftermarket\n  gears fit.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eA built-in axle seal stop, so you get easy, precise seal depth control during assembly instead of\n  guessing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRetained OEM oil control features, the lubrication details that other housings leave out or get wrong,\n  which is exactly the kind of thing that kills a race trans.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Put simply, it's precise, it's accurate, and it's built to go together right, which is more than you can say\n  for a lot of the billet housings out there.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat It's Set Up To Run\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  A few compatibility notes so you can plan your build. This housing is designed to work with multiplate twin\n  or triple disc 7.25\" clutches and a Tilton hydraulic release bearing, that's the setup it's built around.\n  Current housings (2022+) clear the OEM clutch forks; older housings from early 2021 may need minor\n  clearancing if you're running a stock clutch fork and release bearing. It's compatible with all currently\n  known aftermarket gearsets, transfer drive gears, and differentials, so it drops into a serious build without\n  drama. And to finish off the driveline, pair it with the SpeedFactory AWD B-series billet transfer case for\n  the full proven combo.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eImportant: Have A Pro Build It\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\n  This is a foundation for a built race transmission, not a bolt-on. It requires proper assembly and shimming\n  to OEM specifications to work correctly, so unless you're a seasoned transmission builder yourself, have it\n  assembled by a reputable transmission rebuilding specialist. Get the build done right and this housing will\n  be the last thing in your trans you ever worry about.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat You Get\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSpeedFactory AWD B-series billet transmission bellhousing\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCNC machined from solid 6061-T6 aluminum billet to tight tolerances\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHandles extreme power, only about 9 lbs heavier than the OEM cast housing\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eClears larger aftermarket countershaft teeth (retains OEM plate and locking tab, no grinding)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eClears oversized PPG crown wheel and transfer drive gear\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBuilt-in axle seal stop for precise install depth\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRetains OEM oil control features\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDesigned for multiplate twin\/triple disc 7.25\" clutches and a Tilton hydraulic release bearing\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCompatible with all currently known aftermarket gearsets, transfer drive gears, and differentials\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eProven on SpeedFactory's 2000hp, 6-second B-series Outlaw drag car\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFits These Cars\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eB-series AWD transmissions, as found in the 1997-2001 Honda CR-V (and used in AWD B-series race builds)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\n  Note: SpeedFactory AWD B-series billet transmission bellhousing, CNC machined from solid 6061-T6 aluminum\n  billet to high tolerances for high-power street and motorsport AWD B-series builds. It handles extreme power\n  and racing abuse while weighing only about 9 lbs more than the OEM cast housing, and is proven on\n  SpeedFactory's 2000hp, 6-second B-series Outlaw drag car. Design features include a modified countershaft\n  bearing retention plate location that clears larger aftermarket countershaft teeth while retaining the OEM\n  plate and locking tab with no grinding (2022+ update), clearance for oversized PPG crown wheel and transfer\n  drive gear, a built-in axle seal stop for precise install depth, and retained OEM oil control features. It is\n  designed to work with multiplate twin or triple disc 7.25\" clutches and a Tilton hydraulic release bearing;\n  2022+ housings clear OEM clutch forks, while early-2021 housings may require minor clearancing with a stock\n  clutch fork and release bearing. Compatible with all currently known aftermarket gearsets, transfer drive\n  gears, and differentials, and pairs with the SpeedFactory AWD B-series billet transfer case. Fits B-series\n  AWD transmissions as found in the 1997-2001 Honda CR-V. Requires assembly and shimming to OEM specifications;\n  professional installation by a reputable transmission rebuilding specialist is highly recommended. One\n  bellhousing per order.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cdiv\u003e\u003cdiv\u003e1997-2001 Honda CR-V\u003c\/div\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\u003cli id=\"TechnicalData\"\u003e\nDesign elements include:\u003cdiv\u003eModified countershaft bearing retention plate location clears larger diameter aftermarket countershaft teeth while retaining OEM plate and locking tab with no need for any grinding or modification. (2022+ product update)Clears oversized (vs stock) PPG crown wheel \u0026amp; transfer drive gearBuilt-in axle seal stop (for easy \u0026amp; precise depth control during installation)Retains OEM oil control features missing or done incorrectly in other offeringsPair with our SpeedFactory Racing AWD B-Series Billet Transfer Case for the ultimate proven B-Series AWD combo!\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003eNOTE: Requires assembly and shimming to OEM specifications. It is highly recommended that you have the installation performed by a reputable transmission rebuilding specialist. The SFR housings were designed to work with multiplate twin or triple disc 7.25” clutches and a hydraulic release bearing. Use of a stock clutch fork \u0026amp; release bearing may require minor clearing on older housings manufactured in early 2021. Housings manufactured in 2022+ clear oem clutch forks. Compatible with all currently known aftermarket gear sets, transfer drive gears, and differentials.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"SpeedFactory","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45999436234786,"sku":"SFR-05-601","price":3287.75,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/SFR-05-601_0eqw.jpg?v=1783979016"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-k20-6-speed-mainshaft-civic-si-rsx","title":"Synchrotech K20 6 Speed Mainshaft for 06-11 Civic Si\/DC5 RSX","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFactory Ratios, No Change In Driving \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e3.266 First, 2.13 Second \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eComplete Mainshaft Assembly Meeting OEM Specs \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with DC5 RSX and 8th Gen Civic Si \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech K20 6-Speed Mainshaft (SG-K213-MS)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe mainshaft carries first and second gear, and on a K20 6-speed those are the two gears taking the worst of everything. Launches, hard 1-2 shifts, and the highest torque multiplication in the box all land here. If yours has been damaged, or you're building a transmission properly from the case up, this is the Synchrotech replacement, built to OEM ratios with materials and tolerances meant to outlast the factory part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eSame Ratios As Stock\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth saying plainly, because it's the first question people have. This runs a \u003cstrong\u003e15-tooth 3.266 first\u003c\/strong\u003e and a \u003cstrong\u003e23-tooth 2.13 second\u003c\/strong\u003e, which are the factory ratios.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat means the car drives exactly as it did before. Same gearing, same shift points, same speeds in each gear, no tuning adjustments and no relearning the car. You're replacing a damaged or worn component with a stronger version of the same thing, not changing how the transmission behaves.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you wanted a ratio change, that's a different product. This is the one you buy when the gearing was never the problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy First And Second Fail First\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth understanding, because it explains why this is the part people end up needing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe lower the gear, the higher the torque multiplication through it. First and second see dramatically more load than fifth and sixth, and they see it in the most abusive way, on launches and on hard shifts where the driveline is shock loaded rather than gradually loaded.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAdd power to a K20 and that gets worse fast. A transmission that was fine at stock output starts damaging teeth or shafts once you're making real torque and using it. That's why mainshafts and gearsets exist for this gearbox, and why they're what serious builds go through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBuy The Assembly, Not Just Gears\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is a complete mainshaft with first and second, and that matters more than it sounds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe shaft itself is a wear item. Splines and bearing surfaces take load every time you shift, and a shaft that's been through a gear failure often carries damage you won't spot until it costs you a second time. Starting with a fresh assembly removes that variable entirely rather than gambling on a used shaft you can't fully inspect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBuilt Stronger Than Factory\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSynchrotech manufactures these to meet or exceed OEM specification, using quality materials and tight tolerances so the shaft holds up where the factory part gave out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThey've spent decades working specifically on Honda transmissions, developing materials and heat treat alongside metallurgists, which is why their name comes up constantly when someone's gearbox lets go on a car making real power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhile You're In There\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eReplacing a mainshaft means the transmission is fully apart, which is nearly all the labor on this job. Use the access.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInspect your synchros, sleeves, hubs, and bearings while everything is exposed, and replace what's past spec. Anything that ran alongside a damaged gear has likely taken debris or abuse, and closing the case up with a fresh mainshaft next to worn synchros means doing this again sooner than you'd like.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're finding wear throughout, a full rebuild kit is better value than replacing pieces individually.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e2001-2011 Honda and Acura K20 6-speed transmissions, including:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX and RSX Type-S\u003cbr\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003eAcura Integra Type R (DC5)\u003cbr\u003eHonda Civic Type R\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePart number SG-K213-MS. 6-speed transmissions only.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Grab One\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the builder who's opened a K20 6-speed and found damage on the mainshaft, and for anyone assembling a transmission for a car making enough power to justify doing it properly. Factory ratios mean nothing about how the car drives changes, you're just replacing a weak point with something stronger. Inspect everything else while you can see it, and close it up once.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2001-2011 Honda and Acura K20 6-speed transmissions (RSX, RSX Type-S, Civic Si, DC5 Integra Type R, Civic Type R). \u003cstrong\u003ePart number:\u003c\/strong\u003e SG-K213-MS. \u003cstrong\u003eRatios:\u003c\/strong\u003e 3.266 first (15 tooth), 2.13 second (23 tooth), matching factory. \u003cstrong\u003eType:\u003c\/strong\u003e complete mainshaft assembly, direct OEM replacement.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S\u003cbr\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":46745273630754,"sku":"SYN-SG-K213-MS","price":439.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/SYN-SG-K213-MS_u3r8.jpg?v=1788287010"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-b-series-mainshaft-b16a-b18c-b18b","title":"Synchrotech B16A\/B18B\/B18C Pro Series Mainshaft","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eComplete Mainshaft Assembly Exceeds OEM Specs \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFitments for the B16A, B18B, and B18C Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e3.23 First Gear, Factory Ratios Retained \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with EM1 Civic Si, Del Sol VTEC, Integra GS-R\/Type R\/LS \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech Pro Series Mainshaft - B16 \u0026amp; B18 (1994-2001)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe mainshaft carries first and second gear, and those are the two taking the worst of what a B-series does. Launches, hard 1-2 shifts, and the highest torque multiplication in the transmission all land here. If yours has been damaged, or you're building a gearbox properly from the case up, this is the Synchrotech Pro Series replacement at factory ratios.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eTwo Versions, Split By Second Gear\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth variants share the same \u003cstrong\u003e13-tooth 3.23 first gear\u003c\/strong\u003e. What separates them is second, and that's what determines which one you need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003ePart Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eSecond Gear\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eFits\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSG-B190-MS\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1.90 ratio, 20 tooth\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R and LS (B18C1, B18B)\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSG-B210-MS\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e2.10 ratio, 19 tooth\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra Type R (B18C5), 1999-2000 Honda Civic Si and 1994-1997 Del Sol VTEC (B16A)\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Type R and B16 cars run a shorter second gear than the GS-R and LS, which is part of why those transmissions feel more aggressive through the low gears. Match your engine and transmission rather than going by the car alone, since plenty of these have been swapped over the decades.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFactory Ratios, So Nothing Changes\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth versions run the same ratios your transmission had from the factory. That means the car drives exactly as it did before, same gearing, same shift points, same speeds in each gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're replacing a damaged or worn component with a stronger version of the same part rather than changing how the transmission behaves. If you wanted a ratio change, that's a different product. This is the one you buy when the gearing was never the problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy First And Second Fail First\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth understanding, because it explains why this is the part people end up needing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe lower the gear, the higher the torque multiplication through it. First and second see far more load than fourth and fifth, and they see it in the most abusive way, on launches and hard shifts where the driveline gets shock loaded rather than gradually loaded.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAdd power to a B-series and that gets worse quickly. A transmission that was fine at stock output starts damaging teeth or shafts once you're making real torque and using it. On cars that are now thirty years old and have often been built, swapped, and driven hard, the mainshaft is a common casualty.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eBuy The Assembly, Not Just Gears\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is a complete mainshaft with first and second, which matters more than it sounds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe shaft itself is a wear item. Splines and bearing surfaces take load every time you shift, and a shaft that's been through a gear failure often carries damage you won't spot until it costs you again. Starting with a fresh assembly removes that variable rather than gambling on a used shaft you can't fully inspect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePro Series Construction\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSynchrotech has spent decades working specifically on Honda transmissions, developing materials and heat treat processes with metallurgists rather than adapting generic parts. Their Pro Series components are built to handle considerably more than the factory pieces they replace, which is why their name comes up whenever someone's gearbox lets go on a car making real power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhile You're In There\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eReplacing a mainshaft means the transmission is fully apart, which is nearly all the labor on this job. Use the access.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInspect your synchros, sleeves, hubs, and bearings while everything is exposed and replace what's past spec. Anything that ran alongside a damaged gear has likely taken debris or abuse, and closing the case up with a fresh mainshaft next to worn synchros means doing this again sooner than you'd like.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're finding wear throughout, a full rebuild kit is better value than replacing pieces individually.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R and LS (SG-B190-MS)\u003cbr\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra Type R, 1999-2000 Honda Civic Si, 1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC (SG-B210-MS)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSelect your application at checkout.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Grab One\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the builder who's opened a B-series and found damage on the mainshaft, and for anyone assembling a transmission for a car making enough power to justify doing it right. Factory ratios mean nothing about how the car drives changes, you're just replacing a weak point with something stronger. Confirm your second gear ratio, inspect everything else while you can see it, and close it up once.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R and LS, 1994-2001 Integra Type R, 1999-2000 Honda Civic Si, 1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC. \u003cstrong\u003ePart numbers:\u003c\/strong\u003e SG-B190-MS (3.23 first \/ 1.90 second) and SG-B210-MS (3.23 first \/ 2.10 second). \u003cstrong\u003eRatios:\u003c\/strong\u003e matching factory. \u003cstrong\u003eType:\u003c\/strong\u003e complete Pro Series mainshaft assembly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS\/LS\/RS\u003cbr\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R\u003cbr\u003e1997-2001 Acura Integra Type R\u003cbr\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"B18C1\/B18B","offer_id":46745508675618,"sku":"SYN-SG-B190-MS","price":439.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B18C5\/B16A","offer_id":46745508708386,"sku":"SYN-SG-B210-MS","price":439.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/synchrotech-b16a-b18b-b18c-pro_eh46.jpg?v=1788287890"},{"product_id":"mfactroy-d-series-final-drive-gear-set","title":"MFactory D15\/D16 Final Drive Gear Set for 92-00 Civic","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eQuicker Acceleration in Every Gear \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAvailable in Three Final Drive Gear Ratios \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpeedometer Correction Required \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWorks with D15 and D16 Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eMFactory Final Drive Gear Set - D15 \u0026amp; D16 (4.50, 4.70, 4.90)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA final drive change is the cheapest real acceleration you can buy for a D-series. You're not making more power, you're multiplying the power you already have through every single gear. On an engine that was never going to make big numbers, that's often the smartest money in the whole build. Available in 4.50, 4.70, and 4.90 to suit how you actually use the car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat A Final Drive Actually Changes\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth explaining properly, because it's easy to confuse with a gearset.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour final drive is the last gear reduction between the transmission and your wheels. Every gear passes through it, which means changing it affects all of them at once. A gearset changes individual gear ratios. A final drive shifts the whole transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGo numerically higher and you get more torque multiplication at the wheels in every gear. The car accelerates harder, pulls out of corners more willingly, and feels considerably more alive off the line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe trade is speed per gear. You'll be shifting sooner, your rpm at a given road speed goes up, and top speed comes down. On a D-series that's usually a good trade, since you're rarely running out of road and you're frequently wishing the car pulled harder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eKnow Your Starting Point\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis matters more than people expect, because how much change you get depends entirely on what you're coming from.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA \u003cstrong\u003eD16Z6\u003c\/strong\u003e typically runs a 4.250 final drive from the factory. Moving to a 4.70 is a meaningful step, and a 4.90 is aggressive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA \u003cstrong\u003eD16Y8\u003c\/strong\u003e typically runs 3.722, which is considerably taller. From there, even a 4.50 is a big change, and a 4.90 transforms the car entirely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo a Y8 owner and a Z6 owner buying the same 4.70 are having very different experiences. Check what you're actually starting with before you decide how far to go, because the same part number means different things depending on your transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhich Ratio Should You Pick?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThree options, and the right one depends on what the car is for and where you're starting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e4.50 (MFT-TRS-02D45)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the moderate step from a Z6 and a substantial one from a Y8. Noticeably quicker while keeping highway rpm reasonable. If the car is a daily you also enjoy, this is the safe pick and you won't regret it on a road trip.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e4.70 (MFT-TRS-02D47)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the middle ground and probably the most popular. A real change in how the car accelerates, still livable on the street, and well suited to autocross or a weekend car that occasionally sees a highway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e4.90 (MFT-TRS-02D49)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the aggressive option. Excellent for autocross, track use, and tight technical driving where you're living in the low gears. On the highway you'll be spinning noticeably higher rpm, and that gets tiring on a long drive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBe honest about your commute before picking. Almost everyone wants the shortest ratio until they've driven ninety minutes on the freeway with it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePair It With A Limited Slip\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth thinking about seriously, because this is where a lot of the gain actually gets realized.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMore torque multiplication means more torque at the wheels, and on a front-drive car with an open differential, more torque at the wheels means more wheelspin from the unloaded side. A shorter final drive can genuinely make an open-diff car worse out of a corner, because you're feeding more torque into a system with no way to manage it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/mfactory-helical-limited-slip-differential-honda-d-series?_pos=3\u0026amp;_sid=1e95190af\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eMFactory limited slip differential for the D-series\u003c\/a\u003e is what fixes that. It sends power to the wheel with grip instead of the one spinning, so the gearing you paid for actually reaches the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd practically, both parts require splitting the transmission case. Doing them together means one job instead of two, which on a gearbox that has to come out of the car is a significant saving in time and money.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat Else To Sort While You're In There\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInstalling a final drive means the case is apart, so use the access.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eYour speedometer will read wrong.\u003c\/strong\u003e Changing the final drive changes how fast the output turns relative to your wheels, so your speedo and odometer will be off. Plan on a correction, whether that's a speedo gear, a recalibration, or accounting for it in your gauges.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInspect bearings and seals.\u003c\/strong\u003e Anything you have to remove to reach the ring gear should go back in fresh if it has real miles on it. Axle seals and bearings cost almost nothing next to the labor of getting to them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLook at your synchros.\u003c\/strong\u003e On a Civic that's now thirty years old, this is the ideal moment to deal with grinding rather than pulling the transmission again in a year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMention it to your tuner.\u003c\/strong\u003e Gearing changes how load builds in each gear, so if the car is tuned it's worth a conversation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e1992-2000 Honda Civic\u003cbr\u003e1993-1997 Honda Del Sol\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFits D15 and D16 transmissions with S20 and S40 cases. Select your ratio at checkout.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run One\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the D-series owner who's realized their engine is never going to make big power and has decided to make the power it has count for more. Autocross, canyon roads, or a street car you want feeling urgent rather than adequate. It transforms how the car accelerates without touching the engine, and on a chassis this light the difference is immediate. Check what you're starting from, pick your ratio honestly, sort your speedo, and go enjoy a car that finally pulls.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1992-2000 Honda Civic and 1993-1997 Honda Del Sol, D15 and D16 transmissions with S20 or S40 cases. \u003cstrong\u003ePart numbers:\u003c\/strong\u003e MFT-TRS-02D45 (4.50), MFT-TRS-02D47 (4.70), MFT-TRS-02D49 (4.90). \u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e speedometer correction required after installation. Pairs with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/mfactory-helical-limited-slip-differential-honda-d-series?_pos=3\u0026amp;_sid=1e95190af\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eMFactory D-series LSD\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1992-1995 Honda Civic CX\/DX\/EX\/LX\/VX\/Si\u003cbr\u003e1996-2000 Honda Civic CX\/DX\/EX\/LX\u003cbr\u003e1993-1997 Honda Del Sol S\/Si\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"MFactory","offers":[{"title":"4.50 Final","offer_id":46789000790050,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02D45","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"4.70 Final","offer_id":46789000822818,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02D47","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"4.90 Final","offer_id":46789000855586,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02D49","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/mfactory-d15-d16-final-drive-g_55e0.jpg?v=1788366698"},{"product_id":"mfactory-k-series-final-drive-gear-set","title":"MFactory 6 Speed K Series Final Drive Gear Set for K20\/K24","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAvailable in 4.00, 5.08, and 5.41 Final Drive Ratios \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDesigned for 6 Speed K Series Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSpeedo Correction Required \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePairs with a Limited Slip Differential Perfectly \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eMFactory Final Drive Gear Set - K20 \u0026amp; K24 6-Speed (4.00, 5.08, 5.41)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA final drive change multiplies the power you already have through every gear in the box. On a K-series that's already willing, that's the difference between a car that pulls well and one that feels genuinely urgent. Three ratios available, and unusually for a final drive, one of them goes the other direction. Worth understanding which is which before you order.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCheck Your Starting Point First\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis matters more than usual here, because these transmissions didn't all leave the factory the same.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eCar\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eStock Final Drive\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2002-2004 Acura RSX Type-S\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4.389\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2005-2006 Acura RSX Type-S\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4.764\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4.764\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4.764\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat 02-04 RSX difference is significant. Coming from 4.389, a 5.08 is a moderate step. Coming from 4.764, the same 5.08 is a smaller change. Same part, different outcome depending on your car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhich Ratio, And Why 4.00 Is Different\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo of these shorten your gearing and one lengthens it. Know which you're buying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e5.41 (MFT-TRS-02K54)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the aggressive short ratio. Serious torque multiplication in every gear, built for autocross, tight technical tracks, and drag applications where you're living in the low gears and top speed doesn't matter. On the highway you'll be spinning noticeably high rpm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e5.08 (MFT-TRS-02K50)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the middle ground. A real improvement in acceleration while staying more livable than the 5.41. This is the popular choice for a car that sees track days and still gets driven on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e4.00 (MFT-TRS-02K40)\u003c\/strong\u003e goes the other way entirely. It's taller than any of these cars came with, which means longer gearing, lower rpm at speed, and higher top speed per gear. That's not what most people want, but it's exactly right for high speed circuits, standing mile events, or a boosted build making enough torque that stock gearing has the car running out of gear too quickly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBe clear on which problem you're solving. Most people shopping a final drive want shorter. If you specifically need longer, the 4.00 is the one, and it's an unusual and useful option to have.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003e02-04 RSX Owners Need An Extra Bearing\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRead this before ordering, because it's an additional part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFitting this final drive to a \u003cstrong\u003e2002-2004 RSX\u003c\/strong\u003e requires the \u003cstrong\u003e35mm countershaft bearing from an 05 or later model\u003c\/strong\u003e. The earlier transmissions use a different bearing, and the gear set is built around the later spec.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe stock it, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-k-series-differential-ball-bearing-91005-pps-003?_pos=12\u0026amp;_sid=8fd786eef\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eHonda part 91005-PPS-003\u003c\/a\u003e, so add one to your order and you're covered. Everyone else, 05-06 RSX, TSX, and Civic Si, is fine with what's already in the transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePair It With A Limited Slip\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth thinking about seriously, because it's where a lot of the gain gets realized.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMore torque multiplication means more torque at the wheels, and on a front-drive car with an open differential that often just means more wheelspin from the unloaded side. A shorter final drive can genuinely make an open-diff car worse out of a corner, since you're feeding more torque into a system with no way to manage it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/mfactory-helical-limited-slip-differential-honda-k-series?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=1e95190af\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eMFactory K-series limited slip differential (MFT-TRS-05K20)\u003c\/a\u003e sends that torque to the wheel with grip instead. And practically, both parts require splitting the transmission case, so doing them together means one job rather than two on a gearbox that has to come out of the car either way.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat Else To Sort While You're In There\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eYour speedometer will read wrong.\u003c\/strong\u003e Changing the final drive changes output speed relative to your wheels, so the speedo and odometer will be off. Plan on a correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInspect bearings and seals.\u003c\/strong\u003e Anything you remove to reach the ring gear should go back in fresh if it has real miles on it. They cost almost nothing next to the labor of getting to them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLook at your synchros.\u003c\/strong\u003e If the transmission has started grinding, this is the moment to deal with it rather than pulling the box again in a year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMention it to your tuner.\u003c\/strong\u003e Gearing changes how load builds in each gear, so if the car is tuned it's worth a conversation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Type-S\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003cbr\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFits K20 and K24 6-speed manual transmissions, including K20A2, K20Z1, K20Z3, and K24A2, plus EP3, FN2, and FD2 applications. \u003cstrong\u003e02-04 RSX requires the 35mm countershaft bearing (91005-PPS-003).\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run One\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the K-series owner who wants the car to accelerate harder without touching the engine, or who's gone the other direction and needs taller gearing for high speed use. Either way you're changing what the transmission does with the power you already have, which on a good engine is often better value than chasing more of it. Check your starting ratio, add the bearing if you're in an 02-04 RSX, and pick the direction you actually need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e K20 and K24 6-speed manual transmissions in the 2002-2006 RSX Type-S, 2004-2008 TSX, and 2006-2011 Civic Si, plus EP3, FN2, and FD2. \u003cstrong\u003ePart numbers:\u003c\/strong\u003e MFT-TRS-02K40 (4.00), MFT-TRS-02K50 (5.08), MFT-TRS-02K54 (5.41). \u003cstrong\u003e02-04 RSX also requires:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-k-series-differential-ball-bearing-91005-pps-003?_pos=12\u0026amp;_sid=8fd786eef\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e35mm countershaft bearing, Honda 91005-PPS-003\u003c\/a\u003e. \u003cstrong\u003eSpeedometer correction required.\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003ePairs with:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/mfactory-helical-limited-slip-differential-honda-k-series?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=1e95190af\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eMFactory K-series LSD (MFT-TRS-05K20)\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003cbr\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"MFactory","offers":[{"title":"4.00 Final","offer_id":46800247423010,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02K40","price":799.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"5.08 Final","offer_id":46800247455778,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02K50","price":849.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"5.41 Final","offer_id":46800247488546,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02K54","price":849.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/mfactory-k-series-final-drive_t2my.jpg?v=1788369238"},{"product_id":"speedfactroy-wavetrac-b-series-awd-lsd","title":"SpeedFactory Wavetrac B Series AWD Limited Slip Differential (LSD)","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e27 Or 28 Spline, Match Your Axles \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTransferable Lifetime Warranty \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDesigned for B Series AWD Setups \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with FWD Axles Sets \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSpeedFactory x Wavetrac AWD Limited Slip Differential - B-Series\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAWD B-series builds have always had a differential problem. Either you run a spool and give up any ability to turn the car around, or you compromise on what the differential can hold. SpeedFactory partnered with Wavetrac to solve it properly, and the result is a diff built for the highest horsepower drag applications that still lets you drive the car back to the trailer under its own power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eIt Uses Your Existing FWD Axles\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the design decision that separates it from everything else, and it saves real money.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMost AWD differential options require you to modify or swap the passenger side cup to work with your axle setup. SpeedFactory designed around that entirely. This differential fits your \u003cstrong\u003eexisting FWD B-series axle sets\u003c\/strong\u003e with no modification and no cup swap.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've already got FWD axles you're happy with, they carry straight over. That's one less expensive part in an already expensive build, and one less thing to source before the car goes back together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth noting: AWD CR-V front axles are also compatible with the standard version.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eStandard Or Pro-Level?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe difference is spline count and what axles you're running.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eStandard (27-spline)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the version for existing FWD B-series axle sets and AWD CR-V front axles. If you're using what you have, this is the one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePro-Level (28-spline)\u003c\/strong\u003e uses larger internal gears and is built specifically for \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/driveshaft-shop-eg-ek-dc-b-series-hydro-pro-elite-axle-intermediate-bar-kit\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eDriveshaft Shop 28-spline Pro-Level axles and intermediate bar\u003c\/a\u003e. This is the version for the highest horsepower drag applications, and it's in the fastest Hondas built to date.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePick based on your axles rather than your ambitions. The Pro-Level only makes sense if you're running the DSS 28-spline hardware it was designed around.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy Not Just Run A Spool?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFair question if you're building a drag car, and the answer is drivability.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA spool locks both axles together permanently. Excellent for putting power down in a straight line, miserable for everything else. You can't turn the car around at the end of the strip without fighting it, and loading a trailer usually means disconnecting axles or getting someone to help push.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis differential drives both wheels the way a spool does when you need it, and still lets you steer normally when you don't. Turn around at the top end, drive it onto the trailer, and go home without a wrestling match.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat Makes A Wavetrac Different\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBeing honest, because helical differentials get oversold. Wavetrac, Quaife, Torsen, and MFactory are all torque-biasing helical designs and they all work well.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat separates the Wavetrac is a patented internal design that addresses the weakness every helical diff shares. Standard helicals rely on axle load to generate bias, so if a wheel unloads completely, torque bias drops toward zero and the differential behaves like an open unit at exactly the wrong moment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWavetrac's design maintains grip in those low traction conditions, which means both wheels keep driving instead of one spinning uselessly. On a launch where weight is transferring hard, that's the difference between hooking and hazing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eYou'll Need Bearings\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth sourcing alongside the differential rather than after. The bearings you need are:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eUpper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Honda 91006-PX5-008\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLower:\u003c\/strong\u003e Honda 91005-PG2-004\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSince the transmission has to come apart for this job anyway, fresh bearings are the sensible call rather than reusing ones with unknown miles behind a differential this expensive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eTransferable Lifetime Warranty\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWavetrac backs these with a transferable limited lifetime warranty, which matters on a part living inside a transmission. Transferable is worth more than people realize too, since it follows the car if you sell it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e1992-2000 Honda Civic\u003cbr\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra\u003cbr\u003e1997-2001 Honda CR-V\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eB-series AWD applications. Available in standard 27-spline or Pro-Level 28-spline.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run This\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the AWD B-series builder who's making serious power and wants both wheels driving without giving up the ability to steer. Drag racing, competition, or any build where a spool would solve one problem and create three others. It works with the axles you already have, it's backed for life, and it's what's underneath some of the fastest Hondas ever built. Sort your bearings, match your spline count to your axles, and put the power down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1992-2000 Honda Civic, 1994-2001 Acura Integra, 1997-2001 Honda CR-V, B-series AWD. \u003cstrong\u003eVersions:\u003c\/strong\u003e standard 27-spline for existing FWD B-series and AWD CR-V front axles, Pro-Level 28-spline for \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/driveshaft-shop-eg-ek-dc-b-series-hydro-pro-elite-axle-intermediate-bar-kit\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eDriveshaft Shop Pro-Level axles\u003c\/a\u003e. \u003cstrong\u003eDesign:\u003c\/strong\u003e patented Wavetrac internal design for grip under low traction. \u003cstrong\u003eBearings required:\u003c\/strong\u003e Honda 91006-PX5-008 (upper) and 91005-PG2-004 (lower), not included. \u003cstrong\u003eWarranty:\u003c\/strong\u003e transferable limited lifetime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra\u003cbr\u003e1992-2000 Honda Civic\u003cbr\u003e1997-2001 Honda CR-V\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Wavetrac","offers":[{"title":"Standard (27 Spline)","offer_id":46813923606562,"sku":"WAV-60309181WK","price":1095.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Pro-Level (28 Spline)","offer_id":46813923639330,"sku":"WAV-60309281WK","price":1470.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/speedfactory-wavetrac-b-series_95z4.jpg?v=1788383157"},{"product_id":"mfactory-f-h-series-final-drive-gear-set-accord-prelude","title":"MFactory H22\/H23\/F22 Final Drive Gear Set for Accord\/Prelude","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTwo Final Drive Gear Ratios Available \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with 90-02 Accord and 92-01 Prelude \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFits the F22, F23, H22, and H23 Transmission \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePairs with a Limited Slip Differential Perfectly \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e   \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#Included\"\u003eIncluded\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eMFactory Final Drive Gear Set - H22, H23, F22 \u0026amp; F23 (4.64, 5.15)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA final drive change multiplies the power you already have through every gear in the box. On an H22 or F-series Accord or Prelude, that's the difference between a car that pulls adequately and one that feels genuinely quick, without touching the engine. These transmissions came with a 4.266 final drive, and both options here are considerably shorter than that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eCheck Your Case ID And Your Differential\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo things to confirm before ordering, and the second matters more than people expect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis fits transmissions with the following case IDs: \u003cstrong\u003eH2A5, H2U5, P2A5, P2U5, P2A8, P2U8, M2A4, M2Y4, M2S4, and M2L5\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt will \u003cstrong\u003enot\u003c\/strong\u003e fit two setups that exist in these cars:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe OEM 15 bolt viscous LSD.\u003c\/strong\u003e If that's what's in your transmission, this isn't the right gear set. Count the bolts on your ring gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe SH transmission with ATTS.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Prelude SH uses Honda's Active Torque Transfer System, which is a different differential arrangement entirely and isn't compatible with this.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth are worth checking before you order rather than after the case is split.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat A Final Drive Actually Changes\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth explaining properly, because it's easy to confuse with a gearset.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour final drive is the last gear reduction between the transmission and your wheels. Every gear passes through it, which means changing it affects all of them at once. A gearset changes individual ratios. A final drive shifts the whole transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGo numerically higher and you get more torque multiplication at the wheels in every gear. The car accelerates harder, pulls out of corners more willingly, and feels considerably more alive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe trade is speed per gear. You'll shift sooner, your rpm at a given road speed goes up, and top speed comes down. On a heavier car like an Accord or a Prelude that's often a very good trade, since these chassis carry more weight than the engine strictly wants to move.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003e4.64 Or 5.15?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou're starting from 4.266, so both options are real steps. The right one depends on what the car is for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e4.64 (MFT-TRS-02H46)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the balanced choice. A clear improvement in acceleration while keeping highway rpm reasonable enough to live with. If the car is a daily or a weekend cruiser that sees real distance, this is where to start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e5.15 (MFT-TRS-02H52)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the aggressive option, and coming from 4.266 it's a large jump. Serious torque multiplication in every gear, well suited to autocross, track use, or drag applications where you're living in the low gears. On the highway you'll be spinning noticeably higher rpm, and that gets tiring on a long drive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBe honest about your commute before picking. Almost everyone wants the shorter ratio until they've spent ninety minutes on the freeway with it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePair It With A Limited Slip\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth thinking about seriously, because it's where a lot of the gain gets realized.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMore torque multiplication means more torque at the wheels, and on a front-drive car with an open differential that often just means more wheelspin from the unloaded side. A shorter final drive can genuinely make an open-diff car worse out of a corner, since you're feeding more torque into a system with no way to manage it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA limited slip sends that torque to the wheel with grip instead. And practically, both parts require splitting the transmission case, so doing them together means one job rather than two on a gearbox that has to come out either way.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat Else To Sort While You're In There\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eYour speedometer will read wrong.\u003c\/strong\u003e Changing the final drive changes output speed relative to your wheels, so the speedo and odometer will be off. Plan on a correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInspect bearings and seals.\u003c\/strong\u003e Anything you remove to reach the ring gear should go back in fresh if it has real miles on it. They cost almost nothing next to the labor of getting to them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLook at your synchros.\u003c\/strong\u003e These cars are now twenty-five to thirty-five years old. If the transmission has started grinding, this is the moment to deal with it rather than pulling the box again in a year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMention it to your tuner.\u003c\/strong\u003e Gearing changes how load builds in each gear, so if the car is tuned it's worth a conversation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e1992-2001 Honda Prelude and Accord with H22, H23, F22, or F23 transmissions\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCase IDs: H2A5, H2U5, P2A5, P2U5, P2A8, P2U8, M2A4, M2Y4, M2S4, M2L5.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDoes not fit\u003c\/strong\u003e transmissions with the OEM 15 bolt viscous LSD, or SH models with ATTS.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run One\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the Prelude or Accord owner who wants the car to accelerate harder without chasing power, and for the builder who's realized gearing is the cheapest performance available on a heavier chassis. Autocross, track days, or a street car you want feeling urgent. Check your case ID, count your differential bolts, pick your ratio honestly, and sort your speedo.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1992-2001 Honda Prelude and Accord, H22, H23, F22, and F23 transmissions, see case IDs above. \u003cstrong\u003ePart numbers:\u003c\/strong\u003e MFT-TRS-02H46 (4.64) and MFT-TRS-02H52 (5.15). \u003cstrong\u003eStock final drive:\u003c\/strong\u003e 4.266. \u003cstrong\u003eDoes not fit:\u003c\/strong\u003e OEM 15 bolt viscous LSD or SH with ATTS. \u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e speedometer correction required after installation. Pairs well with a limited slip differential.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1990-1993 Honda Accord\u003cbr\u003e1994-1997 Honda Accord\u003cbr\u003e1998-2002 Honda Accord\u003cbr\u003e1992-1996 Honda Prelude\u003cbr\u003e1997-2001 Honda Prelude*\u003cbr\u003e\u003cem\u003e*Does Not Fit SH with ATTS Transmission\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"Included\"\u003e\n\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"MFactory","offers":[{"title":"4.64 Final","offer_id":47455515639842,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02H46","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"5.15 Final","offer_id":47455515672610,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02H52","price":849.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/mfactory-h22-h23-f22-final-dri_mo6f.jpg?v=1788981448"},{"product_id":"synchrotech-b-series-pro-series-1-4-gear-set","title":"Synchrotech B Series Pro Series 1-4 Gear Set for Civic\/Integra","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFour Gear Set Styles Available \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with Integra GS-R\/Type R, EM1, and Del Sol VTEC Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSetups for OE Gearing, Turbo, and All Motor \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e1st to 4th Gear Set, 5th is Reused \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSynchrotech Pro Series 1st-4th Gear Set - B-Series\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you've broken gears, or when the factory ratios are holding back a car making real power, this is the answer. Synchrotech's Pro Series 1-4 gear sets replace first through fourth in a B-series with stronger gears, available in factory ratios or in ratios chosen specifically for turbo and all-motor builds. Four options, and the choice is simpler than it looks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eTwo Questions, Four Options\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWork through it in this order and it's straightforward.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFirst: which transmission do you have?\u003c\/strong\u003e That's fixed by your car, and it determines your 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ratios.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSecond: OE ratios or performance ratios?\u003c\/strong\u003e That's your choice, and it only changes first gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eTransmission\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eOE Gearing\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003ePerformance Gearing\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e94-01 Integra GS-R\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSG-B14OE-GSR\u003cbr\u003e3.23 \/ 1.90 \/ 1.36 \/ 1.03\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSG-B14-GSR (turbo)\u003cbr\u003e3.07 \/ 1.90 \/ 1.36 \/ 1.03\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003e99-00 Civic Si and 96-01 USDM Integra Type R\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSG-B14OE-ITR\u003cbr\u003e3.23 \/ 2.10 \/ 1.45 \/ 1.10\u003c\/td\u003e\n            \u003ctd\u003eSG-B14-ITR (all motor)\u003cbr\u003e3.07 \/ 2.10 \/ 1.45 \/ 1.10\u003c\/td\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNotice what changes and what doesn't. Within each transmission, only first gear differs between the OE and performance versions. The 2-4 ratios stay the same, because those were already right for the application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy A Longer First Gear\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe performance sets run a 3.07 first instead of the factory 3.23, and that's counterintuitive if you expect a performance gear set to be shorter everywhere.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHere's the reasoning. On a car making serious power, whether that's boost or a built all-motor engine, the factory first gear is short enough that you're fighting for traction rather than accelerating. You spin, you shift almost immediately, and first gear does very little useful work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA longer first gives you a better launch. More time in the gear, more of the power actually reaching the road instead of going into wheelspin, and a more usable start to the run. On a drag or high-power car that's worth real time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf your car is closer to stock, the OE ratio sets are the right pick. The factory 3.23 works well when you're not overwhelming the tires, and there's no benefit to a longer first on an engine that can use the short one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eReplaceable Synchro Gear Cones\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the feature worth understanding, and it's genuinely different from how gears normally work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThird and fourth gear are designed with a \u003cstrong\u003ereplaceable synchro gear cone\u003c\/strong\u003e. That means when you damage the engagement teeth on a mis-shift, and eventually you will, you replace that component rather than buying an entire new gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone who's destroyed a gear on a missed shift knows what that saves. It's the difference between a small part and a large one, and on a car that's being raced it's the kind of design decision that pays for itself the first time it happens.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eYou Can Reuse Your Mainshaft And Fifth\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThese sets cover first through fourth, and your factory mainshaft and fifth gears carry over.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat keeps the cost down considerably compared to replacing everything. If your mainshaft is in good shape, there's no reason to replace it just because you're changing gears.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlternatively, the fifth gears can be replaced with an \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/mfactory-b-series-mainshaft-countershaft-brace-cuff\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eMFactory shaft brace\u003c\/a\u003e if you're building for serious power and want the additional support. That's the direction most drag builds go, but it isn't required.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eOne Fitment Exclusion\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRead this if you're running a Type R. The ITR sets fit the \u003cstrong\u003e96-01 USDM Integra Type R\u003c\/strong\u003e and the \u003cstrong\u003e99-00 Civic Si\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThey will \u003cstrong\u003enot\u003c\/strong\u003e fit the 98 spec JDM ITR. If that's what you've got, this isn't the right gear set.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhile You're In There\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInstalling gears means the transmission is fully apart, which is nearly all the labor on this job. Use the access.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInspect your synchros, sleeves, hubs, and bearings while everything is exposed and replace what's past spec. Anything that ran alongside a damaged gear has likely taken debris or abuse, and closing the case up with fresh gears next to worn synchros means doing this again sooner than you'd like.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGS-R sets:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eITR sets:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1999-2000 Honda Civic Si and 1996-2001 USDM Acura Integra Type R\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDoes not fit the 98 spec JDM Integra Type R. Select your transmission and gearing at checkout.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run These\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the builder who's broken gears and wants stronger ones going back in, and for anyone whose power level has outgrown the ratios Honda picked. Turbo car chasing a better launch, all-motor build wanting the right spacing, or a straightforward replacement in factory ratios after a failure. Match your transmission first, decide on first gear second, and close the case up once.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1994-2001 Integra GS-R, or 1999-2000 Civic Si and 1996-2001 USDM Integra Type R. \u003cstrong\u003ePart numbers:\u003c\/strong\u003e SG-B14OE-GSR, SG-B14-GSR, SG-B14OE-ITR, SG-B14-ITR. \u003cstrong\u003eCovers:\u003c\/strong\u003e gears 1 through 4. \u003cstrong\u003eReuses:\u003c\/strong\u003e factory mainshaft and 5th gears, or pair with an MFactory shaft brace. \u003cstrong\u003eFeature:\u003c\/strong\u003e replaceable synchro gear cone on 3rd and 4th. \u003cstrong\u003eDoes not fit:\u003c\/strong\u003e 98 spec JDM Integra Type R.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R\u003cbr\u003e1997-2001 Acura Integra Type R\u003cbr\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Synchrotech Transmissions","offers":[{"title":"94-01 Integra GS-R \/ OE Gearing","offer_id":47458956083234,"sku":"SYN-SG-B14OE-GSR","price":1099.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"99-00 Civic Si\/97-01 Integra Type R \/ OE Gearing","offer_id":47458956116002,"sku":"SYN-SG-B14OE-ITR","price":1099.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"94-01 Integra GS-R \/ Turbo","offer_id":47458956148770,"sku":"SYN-SG-B14-GSR","price":1154.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"99-00 Civic Si\/97-01 Integra Type R \/ All Motor","offer_id":47458956181538,"sku":"SYN-SG-B14-ITR","price":1154.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/synchrotech-b-series-pro-serie_xz44.jpg?v=1788987293"},{"product_id":"mfactory-b-series-mainshaft-countershaft-brace-cuff","title":"MFactory B Series Transmission Shaft Brace Cuff for B16\/B18","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRemoves 5th Gear \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLocks Shafts Against Radial Load \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFor Drag and Race Builds Only \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInstalls it While the Case is Open \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eMFactory Infinitude Shaft Brace Cuff (MFT-INF-TRS-13B) - B-Series\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt serious power levels, the problem stops being the gears themselves and becomes the shafts they're mounted on. Heavily loaded gears create radial loads that push the shafts apart, and once that starts happening you get gear alignment problems, accelerated wear, and eventually failure. This MFactory shaft brace locks the shafts together so they can't separate, while still letting them spin freely as designed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eRead This First: It Replaces Fifth Gear\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most important thing on this page. The shaft brace mounts in the position fifth gear occupies, which means \u003cstrong\u003eyou lose fifth\u003c\/strong\u003e. Reverse is retained, so you can still back the car off a trailer or out of a pit box.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eLosing fifth isn't a drawback, it's the design. The end of the shaft is the only place you can brace them effectively, and fifth gear is what's there. Trading it for shaft support is the deliberate choice you're making.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo this is for a car where losing fifth doesn't matter. Drag cars, dedicated race builds, and anything that never sees a highway. If your B-series still gets driven on the road, this isn't the right part regardless of how much power you're making.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat Radial Load Actually Does\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth understanding, because it explains why this exists.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen gears transmit torque, they push against each other. That force acts to separate the shafts they're mounted on, and it scales with how much power you're putting through them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt stock power, the case and bearings handle it fine. At high power, the shafts deflect enough that gears no longer mesh at the angle they were designed to. Tooth contact shifts to the edge instead of across the full face, load concentrates where it shouldn't, and gears start failing in ways they wouldn't at lower output.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe brace ties the shafts together at their ends so they can't move apart. Gears stay meshed properly, contact stays where it should, and the transmission survives loads that would otherwise be tearing it apart.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePairs With A Gear Set\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis makes the most sense alongside a 1-4 gear set, and the timing is why.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSynchrotech's Pro Series 1-4 sets cover first through fourth and let you either reuse your factory fifth gears or replace them with this brace. If you're already installing gears, the transmission is fully apart and fitting the brace costs you nothing in additional labor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDoing it later means splitting the case again, which is the expensive part of any transmission job. If a brace is anywhere in your plans, do it while you're in there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e1992-2001 B-series transmissions, including:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAcura Integra LS\u003cbr\u003eAcura Integra GS-R\u003cbr\u003eAcura Integra Type R\u003cbr\u003eJDM Integra XSi and RSi\u003cbr\u003eB16 hydro\u003cbr\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePart number MFT-INF-TRS-13B.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run This\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the drag or competition B-series build where power has outgrown what the shafts can handle without help, and where fifth gear was never getting used anyway. It's a part for a specific kind of car, and on that car it's what keeps an expensive transmission together. Be certain you don't need fifth, fit it while the case is already open, and stop worrying about shaft deflection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1992-2001 B-series transmissions (Integra LS, GS-R, Type R, JDM XSi and RSi, B16 hydro, 99-00 Civic Si). \u003cstrong\u003ePart number:\u003c\/strong\u003e MFT-INF-TRS-13B. \u003cstrong\u003eFunction:\u003c\/strong\u003e locks transmission shafts together to counteract radial load from heavily loaded gears. \u003cstrong\u003eImportant:\u003c\/strong\u003e replaces fifth gear, transmission becomes a four-speed. Reverse is retained.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1992-1993 Acura Integra GS\/LS\/RS\u003cbr\u003e1992-1993 Acura Integra GS-R\u003cbr\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS\/LS\/RS\u003cbr\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra GS-R\u003cbr\u003e1997-2001 Acura Integra Type R\u003cbr\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"MFactory","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47459323215906,"sku":"MFT-INF-TRS-13B","price":229.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/MFT-INF-TRS-13B_f10z.jpg?v=1788987188"},{"product_id":"mfactory-k-series-pro-series-1-4-drag-racing-gear-set","title":"MFactory Pro Series 1-4 Drag Gear Set for 6 Speed K Series","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eReplacement 1st Thru 4th Gear Set \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with K20A2, K20Z1, K20Z3, and K24A2 Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHardened and Sub Zero Cryo Treated Gears for Added Strength \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLonger 1st Gear, Close Ratio 2nd\/3rd\/4th \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eMFactory Pro Series 1-4 Drag Gear Set - K-Series 6-Speed (MFT-TRS-01K20)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFactory gearing is a compromise between acceleration, cruising, and fuel economy. On a drag car none of those compromises are worth keeping. This MFactory set replaces first through fourth with a longer first for a better launch and tight ratios through second, third, and fourth so the engine barely drops out of its powerband between shifts. Your factory fifth and sixth stay in, so the car still cruises.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy A Longer First Gear\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCounterintuitive if you expect a drag gear set to be shorter everywhere, so worth explaining.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a car making real power, the factory first gear is short enough that you're fighting for traction rather than accelerating. You spin, you shift almost immediately, and first gear does very little useful work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA 2.313 first is considerably longer, which gives you more time in the gear and lets the tires actually put power down rather than lighting up. On a prepared surface with a sticky tire, that's where the launch comes from.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eClose Ratios Are The Bigger Story\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 2-3-4 spacing is what separates this from just a taller first, and it's where the time actually is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEvery shift drops your engine speed. How far it drops depends on the gap between ratios, and how far it drops determines where in the powerband you land. Wide factory spacing means you shift at redline and come back well below peak power, then spend the first part of the next gear climbing back to where you were making the most.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThese ratios run 1.650, 1.304, and 1.080, which are tight enough that the engine stays close to peak power through each change. Less rpm drop means less time spent accelerating back into the good part of the curve, and on a K-series that makes its power high, that matters a great deal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAdd it up across three shifts on a quarter mile pass and it's real time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eYou Keep Fifth And Sixth\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth calling out, because it separates this from a gear set that turns the car into a trailer queen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe factory fifth and sixth gears carry over. That means the car still has usable highway gearing, so it can drive to the track, drive home, and be something other than dedicated race equipment between events.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt also keeps the cost down, since you're not replacing gears that were never the problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eHardened And Cryo Treated\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThese are hardened and then super sub-zero cryogenically treated, which is a genuine process rather than a marketing term.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCryo treatment takes the metal well below freezing and holds it there, which refines the grain structure and converts retained austenite into martensite. In plain terms, more of the material ends up in its hardest, most stable form. The result is a gear that resists wear better and holds up to the shock loading a hard launch puts through a drivetrain.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a part that fails catastrophically when it fails, that additional strength is what you're paying for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhile You're In There\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInstalling gears means the transmission is fully apart, which is nearly all the labor on this job. Use the access.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInspect your synchros, sleeves, hubs, and bearings while everything is exposed and replace what's past spec. Anything that ran alongside a damaged gear has likely taken debris or abuse, and closing the case up with fresh gears next to worn synchros means doing this again sooner than you'd like.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf a \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/mfactory-k-series-final-drive-gear-set?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=6b785a980\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eshorter final drive\u003c\/a\u003e is in your plans, this is also the moment for that, since both jobs require the same teardown.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eRatios\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e1st: 2.313\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e2nd: 1.650\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e3rd: 1.304\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003e4th: 1.080\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Type-S (K20A2 \/ K20Z1)\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX (K24A2)\u003cbr\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si (K20Z3)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eK20 and EP3 6-speed manual transmissions. Part number MFT-TRS-01K20. Covers gears 1 through 4, factory 5th and 6th are reused.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run This Set\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the K-series drag build where the factory ratios have become the limiting factor, and for anyone who's found their launches are wheelspin rather than acceleration. Longer first to hook, tight spacing so the engine stays in its powerband, and hardened cryo treated gears to survive the loads. Keep your fifth and sixth, do the whole transmission properly while it's open, and go collect the time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2002-2006 Acura RSX Type-S, 2004-2008 Acura TSX, 2006-2011 Honda Civic Si, K20 and EP3 6-speed manual transmissions. \u003cstrong\u003ePart number:\u003c\/strong\u003e MFT-TRS-01K20. \u003cstrong\u003eRatios:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2.313 first, 1.650 second, 1.304 third, 1.080 fourth. \u003cstrong\u003eCovers:\u003c\/strong\u003e gears 1 through 4. \u003cstrong\u003eReuses:\u003c\/strong\u003e factory 5th and 6th gears. \u003cstrong\u003eTreatment:\u003c\/strong\u003e hardened and super sub-zero cryogenically treated.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S\u003cbr\u003e2006-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"MFactory","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47459397861410,"sku":"MFT-TRS-01K20","price":2099.94,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/mfactory-pro-series-1-4-drag-g_7yud.jpg?v=1788988580"},{"product_id":"mfactory-b-series-final-drive-gear-set","title":"MFactory B Series Final Drive Gear Set for EM1 Civic\/Integra","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFitments for B16A\/B17A\/B18B and B18C Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMultiple Final Drive Ratios Available \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNoticeably Improves Acceleration \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCompatible with DA\/DC Integra, EM1 Civic Si, and Del Sol VTEC \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eMFactory Final Drive Gear Set - B-Series (B16, B17 \u0026amp; B18)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA final drive change multiplies the power you already have through every gear in the box. On a B-series, where the engine is willing but displacement is limited, gearing is often the cheapest real performance available. Six ratios spanning from a tall 3.47 to an aggressive 5.167, so you can gear the car for whatever it actually does.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eMeasure Your Ring Gear Hole First\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the check that determines which version you need, and it's the one thing to get right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eB-series transmissions use two different ring gear hole diameters, and they aren't interchangeable:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e109mm (small)\u003c\/strong\u003e covers the B16A, B17A, and B18B transmissions.\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e116.8mm (large)\u003c\/strong\u003e covers the B18C1 and B18C5, meaning GS-R and Type R.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGo by the actual measurement rather than by what your car is, especially on a swapped or rebuilt gearbox. On B-series cars that are now twenty-five to thirty-five years old, transmissions have moved around considerably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eKnow Your Starting Point\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth checking, because it determines whether a given ratio is a step up or a step down for you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHydro transmissions\u003c\/strong\u003e (B16A, B17A, B18A, B18B, B18C1, B18C5) came with a \u003cstrong\u003e4.400\u003c\/strong\u003e final drive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eJDM B16A cable transmissions\u003c\/strong\u003e (A1, J1, Y1, Y2, S1) came with a \u003cstrong\u003e4.785\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo on a hydro car, anything above 4.400 shortens your gearing and anything below lengthens it. Coming from 4.785 on a cable car, the 4.92 available to you is a modest step rather than a dramatic one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFind Your Ratio\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSmall 109mm ring gear, hydro transmissions\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\nFits 1992-1993 Integra GS-R (YS1), 1992-2001 Integra LS (YS1, Y80, S80), 1994-1997 Del Sol B16 (Y21, S21), 1999-2000 Civic B16 (S4C)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eRatio\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003ePart Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3.47\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMFT-TRS-02B35\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4.00\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMFT-TRS-02B4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4.71\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMFT-TRS-02B47\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4.92\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMFT-TRS-02B49\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5.167\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMFT-TRS-02B52\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLarge 116.8mm ring gear, hydro transmissions\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\nFits 1994-2001 Integra GS-R and 1996-2001 Integra Type R\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eRatio\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003ePart Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3.47\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMFT-TRS-02B035A\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4.00\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMFT-TRS-02B4A\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4.26\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMFT-TRS-02B42A\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4.71\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMFT-TRS-02B47A\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4.92\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMFT-TRS-02B49A\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5.167\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMFT-TRS-02B52A\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSmall 109mm ring gear, cable transmissions\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\nFits 1988-1991 B-series cable transmissions (Y1, S1, Y2, A1, J1)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n    \u003cthead\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003eRatio\u003c\/th\u003e\n            \u003cth scope=\"col\"\u003ePart Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n        \u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/thead\u003e\n    \u003ctbody\u003e\n        \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4.92\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMFT-TRS-02B49C\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo things worth noting. The \u003cstrong\u003e4.26 is only offered in the large ring gear version\u003c\/strong\u003e, and the \u003cstrong\u003ecable transmissions only get the 4.92\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat A Final Drive Actually Changes\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth explaining, because it's easy to confuse with a gearset.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYour final drive is the last gear reduction between the transmission and your wheels. Every gear passes through it, which means changing it affects all of them at once. A gearset changes individual ratios. A final drive shifts the whole transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGo numerically higher and you get more torque multiplication at the wheels in every gear. The car accelerates harder and pulls out of corners more willingly. The trade is speed per gear, so you shift sooner, your rpm at a given road speed goes up, and top speed comes down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGo numerically lower and everything reverses. Longer gearing, lower cruising rpm, and higher top speed per gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eThis Range Goes Both Directions\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant to understand before picking, because coming from 4.400 these ratios split into two very different intentions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e5.167 and 4.92\u003c\/strong\u003e are the aggressive short ratios. Serious torque multiplication in every gear, built for autocross, drag racing, and tight technical tracks where you're living in the low gears. Highway driving means high rpm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e4.71\u003c\/strong\u003e is the moderate step shorter. A real improvement in acceleration while staying usable on the road, which suits a car that sees track days and still gets driven there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e4.26, 4.00, and 3.47\u003c\/strong\u003e go the other way. All three are taller than the factory 4.400, which means longer gearing rather than shorter. That's the right choice for high speed circuits, standing mile events, or a boosted build making enough torque that stock gearing has the car running out of gear too quickly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBe clear on which problem you're solving before you order. Most people shopping a final drive want shorter, but the tall options exist for a reason and they're the correct answer for a specific kind of car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003ePair It With A Limited Slip\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth thinking about seriously, because it's where a lot of the gain gets realized.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMore torque multiplication means more torque at the wheels, and on a front-drive car with an open differential that often just means more wheelspin from the unloaded side. A shorter final drive can genuinely make an open-diff car worse out of a corner, since you're feeding more torque into a system with no way to manage it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/mfactory-helical-lsd-b-series?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=cd59569df\u0026amp;_ss=r\u0026amp;variant=45118447878178\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003elimited slip\u003c\/a\u003e sends that torque to the wheel with grip instead. Both parts require splitting the transmission case, so doing them together means one job rather than two on a gearbox that has to come out either way.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat Else To Sort While You're In There\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eYour speedometer will read wrong.\u003c\/strong\u003e Changing the final drive changes output speed relative to your wheels, so the speedo and odometer will be off. Plan on a correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInspect bearings and seals.\u003c\/strong\u003e Anything you remove to reach the ring gear should go back in fresh if it has real miles on it. They cost almost nothing next to the labor of getting to them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLook at your synchros.\u003c\/strong\u003e These transmissions are old enough that if it's started grinding, this is the moment rather than pulling the box again next year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e1988-2001 Honda and Acura B-series transmissions, both cable and hydro. See the tables above for the correct part number.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSelect by ring gear hole diameter, not by vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWho Should Run One\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for the B-series owner who wants the car to accelerate harder without chasing power, or who needs taller gearing for a high speed application. It's the cheapest meaningful performance change available on these cars, and the range here covers everything from a drag setup to a top speed build. Measure your ring gear hole, check what you're starting from, pick your direction, and sort your speedo.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFits:\u003c\/strong\u003e Honda and Acura B16, B17, and B18 transmissions, cable and hydro. \u003cstrong\u003eRatios:\u003c\/strong\u003e 3.47, 4.00, 4.26, 4.71, 4.92, and 5.167 depending on application. \u003cstrong\u003eStock final drive:\u003c\/strong\u003e 4.400 on hydro transmissions, 4.785 on JDM cable transmissions. \u003cstrong\u003eImportant:\u003c\/strong\u003e select by ring gear hole diameter, 109mm or 116.8mm. \u003cstrong\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e speedometer correction required after installation. Pairs well with a limited slip differential.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e1990-1993 Acura Integra\u003cbr\u003e1994-2001 Acura Integra\u003cbr\u003e1999-2000 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e1994-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"MFactory","offers":[{"title":"B16A\/B17A\/B18B (YS1\/Y80\/S80\/Y21\/S21\/S4C) \/ 3.47 Final","offer_id":47460037460002,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02B35","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B18C1\/B18C5 (GS-R\/ITR) \/ 3.47 Final","offer_id":47460037492770,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02B035A","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B16A\/B17A\/B18B (YS1\/Y80\/S80\/Y21\/S21\/S4C) \/ 4.00 Final","offer_id":47460037525538,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02B4","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B18C1\/B18C5 (GS-R\/ITR) \/ 4.00 Final","offer_id":47460037558306,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02B4A","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B18C1\/B18C5 (GS-R\/ITR) \/ 4.26 Final","offer_id":47460037591074,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02B42A","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B16A\/B17A\/B18B (YS1\/Y80\/S80\/Y21\/S21\/S4C) \/ 4.71 Final","offer_id":47460037623842,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02B47","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B18C1\/B18C5 (GS-R\/ITR) \/ 4.71 Final","offer_id":47460037656610,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02B47A","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B16A\/B17A\/B18B (YS1\/Y80\/S80\/Y21\/S21\/S4C) \/ 4.92 Final","offer_id":47460037689378,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02B49","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B18C1\/B18C5 (GS-R\/ITR) \/ 4.92 Final","offer_id":47460037722146,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02B49A","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B16 Cable (Y1\/S1\/Y2\/A1\/J1) \/ 4.92 Final","offer_id":47460037754914,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02B49C","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B16A\/B17A\/B18B (YS1\/Y80\/S80\/Y21\/S21\/S4C) \/ 5.167 Final","offer_id":47460037787682,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02B52","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"B18C1\/B18C5 (GS-R\/ITR) \/ 5.167 Final","offer_id":47460037820450,"sku":"MFT-TRS-02B52A","price":699.95,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/mfactory-b-series-final-drive_3mru.jpg?v=1788991519"},{"product_id":"honda-k-j-series-ring-gear-bolts-90017-pyz-000","title":"Honda J\/K Series Ring Gear Bolts 90017-PYZ-000","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine Honda Product \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eHolds Final Drive Gear to Differential \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSold Individually, 10 Required \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLSD\/Non-LSD Bolts Differ, Select the Correct One for Your Application \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGenuine Honda Ring Gear Bolts - J\/K Series (PYZ Shouldered \/ PPP Non-Shouldered)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThese are the genuine Honda bolts that hold the ring gear to the differential, and there are two versions that are not interchangeable. The difference matters most if you're installing an aftermarket limited-slip differential: a non-LSD transmission uses one bolt, but an LSD requires the stronger shouldered version at a higher torque. Get this right, because the ring gear bolts are a critical, high-load fastener, and the wrong one on an LSD install is a genuine failure risk. Both are 11mm, sold individually, and you need 10 for the job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhich Bolt You Need\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most important thing on this page, so read it before ordering.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePYZ (90017-PYZ-000) is the shouldered bolt, for LSD applications.\u003c\/strong\u003e It's used in transmissions that came with a limited-slip differential, and it has a shoulder and a higher torque-to-yield spec to handle the greater loads an LSD puts on the ring gear mounting. This is the bolt for a factory-LSD transmission, and critically, it's the bolt you need if you're \u003cstrong\u003einstalling an aftermarket LSD into a transmission that didn't originally have one\u003c\/strong\u003e. Even if your trans came with the non-shouldered PPP bolts, adding an LSD means stepping up to the shouldered PYZ bolts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePPP (90017-PPP-000) is the non-shouldered bolt, for non-LSD applications.\u003c\/strong\u003e It's used in open-differential transmissions and doesn't have the shoulder. This is the correct bolt for refreshing a non-LSD transmission that's staying open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe rule: if there's an LSD in the transmission, factory or aftermarket, you need the \u003cstrong\u003ePYZ shouldered bolts\u003c\/strong\u003e. If it's an open diff staying open, the PPP bolts are correct. Don't put non-shouldered PPP bolts on an LSD; they're not rated for it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy The Ring Gear Bolt Matters\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ring gear is what the final drive turns, it takes all the engine's torque after the transmission and sends it to the differential and axles. The bolts holding that ring gear to the diff are under enormous load, and they're torque-to-yield fasteners, meaning they're torqued to a precise spec that stretches them slightly to achieve the correct clamping force.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBecause of that, you don't reuse ring gear bolts, once torqued to yield, they've stretched and won't clamp correctly a second time. A fresh set is required any time you've had the ring gear off, whether that's an LSD swap, a differential service, or a final drive change. A loose or failed ring gear bolt is catastrophic inside a transmission, so this is a fastener you always replace with fresh, correct-spec bolts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eSold Individually — You Need 10\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for ordering the right quantity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThese are sold individually, and a Honda ring gear uses \u003cstrong\u003e10 bolts\u003c\/strong\u003e. So any time you're adding new bolts for an LSD install or a final drive refresh, you need 10. Order 10 for the job, it's an easy quantity to under-order, and you don't want to be short when the transmission's apart.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment: PYZ (Shouldered, LSD)\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFactory-LSD transmissions, and required for aftermarket LSD installs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTransmissions: K20Z3, K20C1, K24Z7, J32A2, J35A8\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e2003 Acura CL Type S\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TL Base\/Type S\u003cbr\u003e2024-2026 Acura Integra Type S\u003cbr\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord V6\u003cbr\u003e2018-2020 Honda Accord 2.0T\u003cbr\u003e2006-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e2023-2026 Honda Civic Type R\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment: PPP (Non-Shouldered, Non-LSD)\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOpen-differential transmissions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTransmissions: K20A2, K20A3, K20Z1, K24A2, K24A4, K24A8, K24Z2, K24W7, R18A, LEA1\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type S\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003cbr\u003e2003-2017 Honda Accord (K24)\u003cbr\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e2006-2015 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\u003cbr\u003e2016-2024 Honda Civic Sport\/EX\/LX (1.5T\/2.0L NA)\u003cbr\u003e2011-2016 Honda CR-Z\u003cbr\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element\u003cbr\u003e2016-2018 Honda HR-V\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment Summary\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePYZ (shouldered): LSD transmissions, and any aftermarket LSD install. PPP (non-shouldered): non-LSD open-diff transmissions. Both 11mm, genuine Honda, sold individually, 10 required.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're installing a limited-slip differential, factory or aftermarket, into your Honda or Acura, you need the shouldered PYZ bolts; if you're refreshing a non-LSD final drive, the PPP bolts are correct. Either way they're torque-to-yield, so always fit fresh, and order 10 for the job. Match the bolt to your diff setup and torque them to spec, this is the fastener you don't guess on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e90017-PPP-000\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e2002-2006 Acura RSX Base\/Type S\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003cbr\u003e2003-2017 Honda Accord (K24)\u003cbr\u003e2002-2005 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e2006-2015 Honda Civic DX\/EX\/LX\u003cbr\u003e2016-2024 Honda Civic Sport\/EX\/LX (1.5T\/2.0L NA)\u003cbr\u003e2011-2016 Honda CR-Z\u003cbr\u003e2003-2011 Honda Element\u003cbr\u003e2016-2018 Honda HR-V\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e90017-PYZ-000\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e2003 Acura CL Type S\u003cbr\u003e2024-2026 Acura Integra Type S\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TL Base\/Type S\u003cbr\u003e2003-2007 Honda Accord V6\u003cbr\u003e2018-2020 Honda Accord 2.0T\u003cbr\u003e2006-2015 Honda Civic Si\u003cbr\u003e2023-2026 Honda Civic Type R\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"LSD","offer_id":67947488968738,"sku":"OHA-90017-PYZ-000","price":6.93,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"No LSD","offer_id":67947489001506,"sku":"OHA-90017-PPP-000","price":9.49,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/honda-j-k-series-ring-gear-bol_teoz.jpg?v=1791397252"},{"product_id":"honda-k20z3-final-drive-gear-41233-rpt-010","title":"Honda K20Z3 Final Drive Gear 41233-RPT-010","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine Honda Product \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDirect Factory Replacement Part \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFits PNN3, K20Z3 Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNot Compatible with 06 Civic Si, PNN4 Transmission \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGenuine Honda K20Z3 Final Drive Gear (41233-RPT-010)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the genuine Honda final drive gear from the K20Z3 transmission, the ring gear that sets your final drive ratio and transfers power from the transmission to the differential. It's the part you need when you're rebuilding a transmission, replacing a worn or damaged final drive, or installing a limited-slip differential, since an LSD bolts to this ring gear. Original equipment in the PNN3 transmission from the 2007-2011 Civic Si. Confirm your transmission before ordering, because the Si used two different final drives depending on year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eConfirm Your Transmission First\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most important thing on this page, because the 8th-gen Si used two different final drive gears and they're not interchangeable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThis gear (41233-RPT-010)\u003c\/strong\u003e is from the \u003cstrong\u003ePNN3 transmission\u003c\/strong\u003e, the 2007-2011 Civic Si. If you've got a 07-11 Si or that transmission, this is your final drive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe 2006 Civic Si Coupe is different.\u003c\/strong\u003e It came with the \u003cstrong\u003ePNN4 transmission\u003c\/strong\u003e, which uses a different final drive gear, part 41233-PZF-020. That same PZF gear is also found in the K20Z1 (NSN4 transmission) and the K24A2 (ASU5 transmission). So if you're building a PNN4, K20Z1, or K24A2 transmission, you need the PZF gear, not this one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe rule: match the final drive to your actual transmission, not just the chassis. A 07-11 Si (PNN3) takes this RPT gear; a 2006 Si Coupe, K20Z1, or K24A2 takes the PZF gear. Getting this wrong means a final drive that won't work in your transmission, so verify your transmission code before ordering.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat the Final Drive Does\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe final drive gear (the ring gear) is the last gear reduction in the transmission, it's what the differential turns, and its ratio sets how engine RPM translates to wheel speed in every gear. It takes all the torque coming through the transmission and sends it to the differential and out to the axles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou need a new one in a few situations: rebuilding a transmission where the original is worn, replacing a final drive damaged by a failure, or swapping to this ratio. It's also the gear a limited-slip differential mounts to, so an LSD install involves this ring gear directly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorks With K-Series LSDs\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant if you're building the transmission with a limited-slip differential.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis final drive gear works with K-series limited-slip differentials, the LSD bolts to this ring gear. So if you're installing an LSD into your K20Z3 transmission, this is the compatible final drive, and the two go together as part of building a proper limited-slip setup. An LSD transforms how the car puts power down out of corners, and it mounts to this gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eYou'll Need Fresh Ring Gear Bolts\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDon't reuse the old ones.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhenever the ring gear comes off, for this final drive swap, an LSD install, or a rebuild, you need fresh \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-k-j-series-ring-gear-bolts-90017-pyz-000?_pos=1\u0026amp;_psq=ring+gear\u0026amp;_psid=f567a6b4c\u0026amp;_ss=e\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003ering gear bolts\u003c\/a\u003e. They're torque-to-yield fasteners that stretch when torqued, so they can't be reused reliably. And note: if you're installing an LSD, you need the \u003cstrong\u003eshouldered\u003c\/strong\u003e ring gear bolts (the higher-torque version), not the standard non-shouldered ones, even if your transmission didn't originally have an LSD. Ten bolts are required, so order a fresh set with this gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGenuine Honda K20Z3 final drive gear, PNN3 transmission (2007-2011 Honda Civic Si). Part number 41233-RPT-010.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNot for the 2006 Si Coupe (PNN4), K20Z1 (NSN4), or K24A2 (ASU5), those use final drive 41233-PZF-020. Confirm your transmission before ordering.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're building or rebuilding a K20Z3 (PNN3) transmission, replacing a worn final drive, or installing an LSD in a 07-11 Civic Si, this is the genuine Honda ring gear for the job. Confirm you've got the PNN3 transmission, grab fresh shouldered ring gear bolts (and your LSD if you're adding one), and build the final drive right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2007-2011 Honda Civic Si\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":67958102229026,"sku":"OHA-41233-RPT-010","price":503.49,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/OHA-41233-RPT-010_u9qm.jpg?v=1791399722"},{"product_id":"honda-k20z1-k20z3-k24a2-final-drive-gear-41233-pzf-020","title":"Honda K20Z1\/K24A2 Final Drive Gear 41233-PZF-020","description":"\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGenuine Honda Product \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eDirect Factory Replacement Part \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFits NSN4, ASU5, and PNN4 Transmissions \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWorks with K20Z1, 06 K20Z3, and K24A2 \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003c!-- split --\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs\"\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca class=\"active\" href=\"#Description\"\u003eDescription\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n \u003cli\u003e\u003ca href=\"#VehicleFitment\"\u003eVehicle Fitment\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"tabs-content\"\u003e\n\n\n\u003cli class=\"active\" id=\"Description\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGenuine Honda K20Z1\/K24A2 Final Drive Gear (41233-PZF-020)\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the genuine Honda final drive gear for the K20Z1 and K24A2 transmissions, the ring gear that sets your final drive ratio and transfers power from the transmission to the differential. It's the part you need when you're rebuilding a transmission, replacing a worn or damaged final drive, or installing a limited-slip differential, since an LSD bolts to this ring gear. It fits the ASU5, NSN4, and PNN4 transmissions. Confirm your transmission before ordering, because related K-series transmissions use a different final drive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eConfirm Your Transmission First\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most important thing on this page, because the wrong final drive won't work in your transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThis gear (41233-PZF-020)\u003c\/strong\u003e fits the \u003cstrong\u003eNSN4\u003c\/strong\u003e transmission (K20Z1), the \u003cstrong\u003eASU5\u003c\/strong\u003e transmission (K24A2), and the \u003cstrong\u003ePNN4\u003c\/strong\u003e transmission (2006 Civic Si Coupe). If you're building or rebuilding one of those, this is your final drive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe 2007-2011 Civic Si is different.\u003c\/strong\u003e It came with the \u003cstrong\u003ePNN3 transmission\u003c\/strong\u003e, which uses a different final drive gear, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-k20z3-final-drive-gear-41233-rpt-010\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e41233-RPT-010\u003c\/a\u003e. So if you've got a 07-11 Si or a PNN3 transmission, you need the RPT gear, not this one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe rule: match the final drive to your actual transmission, not just the chassis, especially on the Civic Si, where the 2006 coupe (PNN4, this gear) and the 2007-2011 (PNN3, the RPT gear) take different final drives. Verify your transmission code before ordering.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWhat the Final Drive Does\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe final drive gear (the ring gear) is the last gear reduction in the transmission, it's what the differential turns, and its ratio sets how engine RPM translates to wheel speed in every gear. It takes all the torque coming through the transmission and sends it to the differential and out to the axles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou need a new one in a few situations: rebuilding a transmission where the original is worn, replacing a final drive damaged by a failure, or swapping to this ratio. It's also the gear a limited-slip differential mounts to, so an LSD install involves this ring gear directly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eWorks With K-Series LSDs\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant if you're building the transmission with a limited-slip differential.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis final drive gear works with K-series limited-slip differentials, the LSD bolts to this ring gear. So if you're installing an LSD into your K20Z1 or K24A2 transmission, this is the compatible final drive, and the two go together as part of building a proper limited-slip setup. An LSD transforms how the car puts power down out of corners, and it mounts to this gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eYou'll Need Fresh Ring Gear Bolts\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDon't reuse the old ones.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhenever the ring gear comes off, for this final drive swap, an LSD install, or a rebuild, you need fresh \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-k-j-series-ring-gear-bolts-90017-pyz-000\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003ering gear bolts\u003c\/a\u003e. They're torque-to-yield fasteners that stretch when torqued, so they can't be reused reliably. And note: if you're installing an LSD, you need the \u003cstrong\u003eshouldered\u003c\/strong\u003e ring gear bolts (the higher-torque version), not the standard non-shouldered ones, even if your transmission didn't originally have an LSD. Ten bolts are required, so order a fresh set with this gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch4\u003eFitment\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e2005-2006 Acura RSX Type-S (K20Z1, NSN4 transmission)\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX (K24A2, ASU5 transmission)\u003cbr\u003e2006 Honda Civic Si Coupe (PNN4 transmission)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePart number 41233-PZF-020. Not for the 2007-2011 Civic Si (PNN3), which uses the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/products\/honda-k20z3-final-drive-gear-41233-rpt-010\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003e41233-RPT-010\u003c\/a\u003e final drive. Confirm your transmission before ordering.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're building or rebuilding a K20Z1 or K24A2 transmission, replacing a worn final drive, or installing an LSD in an RSX Type-S, TSX, or 06 Si Coupe, this is the genuine Honda ring gear for the job. Confirm you've got the NSN4, ASU5, or PNN4 transmission, grab fresh shouldered ring gear bolts (and your LSD if you're adding one), and build the final drive right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n \n\u003cli id=\"VehicleFitment\"\u003e\n \u003cp\u003e2005-2006 Acura RSX Type S\u003cbr\u003e2004-2008 Acura TSX\u003cbr\u003e2006 Honda Civic Si Coupe\u003c\/p\u003e \n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n","brand":"Honda","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":67958276325410,"sku":"OHA-41233-PZF-020","price":634.12,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/2218\/5701\/files\/OHA-41233-PZF-020_eogc.jpg?v=1791400250"}],"url":"https:\/\/www.hybrid-racing.com\/collections\/gears.oembed?q=null","provider":"Hybrid Racing","version":"1.0","type":"link"}