Understanding the K-Series Chain Tensioner Design
The timing chain tensioner is a critical component in the k-series engine, as it prevents the timing chain from loosening, which could result in fouled valve timing and possible engine damage. To understand why the chain tensioner is necessary, you need to understand what happens to the chain to make it stretch and/or loosen. When the sprocket on the crank rotates, it applies tension to the chain which forces the cam sprockets to rotate. The higher the rpm’s the motor is spinning at, the higher the tension that the chain is exposed to. The size of chain that is used on these motors is chosen to be strong enough to last for thousands of miles, while keeping the rotating mass of the motor as low as possible. If the chain were a smaller size, it wouldn’t last as long; if it were a larger size, the engine wouldn’t rev as quickly as it does. When enough tension is applied to a chain, it will stretch in two ways. The first type of stretching is known as elastic (temporary) elongation. In this situation the chain stretches while the tension is applied and returns to its original length once the tension is removed. The second type of of stretching is known as plastic (permanent) elongation. In this situation, the chain is permanently stretched. This stretches the chain as little as a few millionths of an inch at a time, but can add up after the engine is run for a few thousand hours. Plastic elongation will not occur until the chain has first been elastically elongated; this is because it takes more tension to plastically elongate a chain than to elastically elongate a chain. Timing chains can also loosen and tighten due to valve springs forcing cams to rotate. What all of this means is that the chain tensioner needs to be able to take up both temporary and permanent slack in the chain.
Above is a chain tensioner that’s been cut in half, to expose all of the vital internal components. The tensioner in a k-series motor consists of 13 different parts. There are two assemblies in the tensioner that control the flow of oil through the tensioner as well as control the force the tensioner applies to the chain guide. There is also a ratcheting mechanism that allows the tensioner’s piston to move in and out, while preventing the piston from being pushed fully back into the tensioner, allowing the chain to become overly slacked. That ratcheting mechanism is shown below. It’s hard to make out in the image, but the ratcheting mechanism allows the piston to move in and out about .25″; this travel takes up the slack caused by elastic elongation in the chain. If the piston moves out of the tensioner more than this, it will ratchet to the next tooth, allowing the piston to move back into the tensioner about .25″, but no more. This is what takes up the slack caused by plastic deformation.
Shown below is one of the two valves mentioned earlier. This is just a simple check valve that is pressed into the chain tensioner. It allows oil from the engine to flow into the chain tensioner, but prevents it from flowing from the tensioner into the engine. It should be mentioned that the large spring shown inside the tensioner does not apply the majority of the pressure to the chain. This spring has a relatively small spring rate and is there primarily to apply pressure to the chain only when the oil pressure is low(during start up, idle, etc).
Shown below is the second of the two valves mentioned earlier. This valve is a high-pressure release valve that allows oil to flow out of the tensioner (which is sent to the chain through the chain guide). It takes about 100 PSI to engage this valve and allow oil to flow through it. The pressure provided by the engine is insufficient to flow oil through this valve; instead, it’s the force applied to the tensioner by the chain during high rpm’s, that causes a pressure spike in the tensioner and consequently bleeds oil to the chain. When the chain is slack, however, the tensioner uses the oil pressure from the motor to extend the piston and press the chain guide tightly against the chain. It should be obvious by now that the engineers at Honda put a great deal of thought into their design and how it interacts with the timing chain under different loading conditions over the chain’s life span.
Now for the problem with Honda’s design (at least the problem that plagues anyone interested in running aggressive cams in a k-series motor). The problem is that the tensioner sees higher loads when certain after market cams and valve springs are used, due to different cam profiles and higher spring rates; this higher load wears out the teeth on the ratcheting mechanism used on the tensioner. If the teeth wear out enough, the piston can be pushed into the tensioner enough to cause slack in the chain and risk damage to the motor. In addition, the only thing that prevents the piston from rotating in the tensioner, thereby causing misalignment of the teeth in the ratcheting mechanism, is the groove in the chain guide that the tensioner piston fits into. In the cases we’ve observed, the fit between the piston and chain guide has been loose enough to allow the piston to rotate 5-10 degrees in either direction. This is more than enough to cause the ratcheting teeth to not line up well, and when the teeth don’t line up well, they wear much much faster. Couple this misalignment with the higher loads caused by aftermarket cams and springs, and you’ve got a recipe for disaster.
Don’t lose all hope though, because we’ve got something that’s actually designed for the beating you’ve been handing your now worn-out OEM unit. More on that later.
russ@hybrid-racing.com
HR Sponsored EG goes 10.85@135!
Hybrid Racing would like to spotlight Navid Pajoufar and his Honda Civic coupe. This car produces over 700whp and went 10.85@135 on one of it’s first passes!! Congratulations Navid and keep up the hard work!
Engine:
- Built
- AFI intake manifold
- BDL 70mm TB
Trans:
- Type R trans 4.4 FD
- Quaife LSD
- CC twin disc clutch
Turbo:
- Peakboost Manifold T4
- Turbonectics HP66 T4
- Precision 750 Intercooler
- GReddy Type R BOV
- Custom 3″ IC piping
- Custom 4″ Downpipe
Fuel Setup:
- Aeromotive Fuel pump
- Full Race Sump
- Aeromotive filters
- AEM FPR
- GE fuel Rail
- -8 Feed
- Stock feed as return
- Bosh 1600 injectors
Other:
- Hybrid Racing engine mounts
- Hybrid Racing converion harness
- Hybrid Racing Custom Fuel line kit
- Hybrid Racing clutch line
HR Radiator Install
Hybrid Racing K Series Swap Radiator Install
Instructions Version 1.5:
Below you will find instructions on how to install your Hybrid Racing radiator.
*Radiator Kits may not be legal for highway use. Hybrid Racing is not responsible for any direct or indirect, actual or incidental expense attributed to the use of any performance parts sold by Hybrid Racing LLC. Purchasers agree to all of the terms of this agreement upon the purchase of parts. More information can be found at www.hybrid-racing.com.
PACKAGE CONTENTS:
- Hybrid Racing radiator, drain plug and radiator cap
PARTS NEEDED:
- Slim Fan
- Fan mounting tabs
- OEM rubber tab grommets
- Radiator stay bracket
- Fan switch and coolant temperature sensors
Before beginning the installation please note that these products were designed around a factory Honda Civic. If your chassis has been modified, or repaired because of damage some parts may not fit correctly and some minor modifications may be required.
Installation
1. Begin by removing all of the factory radiator and AC components.
2. Mount the fan using fan mounting hardware. (Contact Hybrid Racing if you do not have these)
3. Mount the fan in the appropriate direction and push the tabs through the radiator fins. Make sure not to damage any of the cooling fins.
- Install the protective square on the face of the radiator.
- After the tab has been pushed through, clip and slide the back piece and make sure the fan is secured tightly to the radiator.
4. Place the radiator along with the OE rubber grommets into the factory AC location.
- Note: The fan should be attached at this point!
5. Once the radiator has been mounted, secure with a radiator stay bracket.
6. Install the drain bolt. Thread sealer can be used if desired.
7. Install the Fan Switch sensor into the bottom bung. (connect to your conversion harness)
8. Connect the coolant temperature sensor in the bung at the top of the radiator. (connect to your conversion harness)
9. Connect the proper radiator hoses, and fill system with coolant. (radiator hoses may vary due to different applications and parts)
10. Check for any leaks.
Fan Wiring
11. Locate the factory fan connector located near the stock OE radiator fan was. The easiest way to connect the fan is to use the crimp on connectors, remove the stock plug and crimp on the wire connector ends.
12. Connect the wires to the new slim fan.
13. Let the car warm up, watching the coolant temperature level. When the fan kicks on, (either set by the fan switch, or KPRO) confirm the fan is turning the proper way. If it is not, switch the wires on the connector.
You have successfully installed your K series swap radiator!!!
If you have any questions or comments please email
Legal Disclaimer
Users assume all cost and risk associated with these or any other items purchased from the hybrid racing LLC web site.
Parts sold or manufactured by Hybrid Racing LLC may not meet legal requirements for use on public roads. People thinking about purchasing product from Hybrid Racing LLC should check with their local or state authorities for legality. It is the user’s responsibility to know and comply with all local and federal laws and regulations. Use or installation of Hybrid Racing LLC products may affect user insurance and/or vehicle warranty coverage. It is the user’s sole responsibility for consequences that may occur due to having the product installed in his/her vehicle.
Hybrid Racing LLC assumes no legal responsibilities and/or liabilities, whether to user’s vehicle, engine, person(s), and/or property(s), that result from the use of, or servicing of a vehicle of which a Hybrid Racing LLC product has been installed/attempted to be installed, or to any other vehicle(s) and/or person(s), regardless of whether or not this product has any involvement directly or indirectly and/or liability, and/or whether or not proper installation has been carried forth.
All engines, engine parts and electrical components are for OFF ROAD USE ONLY/RACING VEHICLES ONLY. They are not for or to be used on public roads in the USA.
Acquisition of a Hybrid Racing LLC product will act as an acknowledgment of the legal disclaimer stated herein.
Hybrid Racing LLC reserves the right to change this disclaimer at any time without any prior consent or notification.
Should you need to contact us our details are as follows:
Hybrid Racing LLC, 3348 Drusilla Lane, Suite 2C, Baton Rouge, LA 70809
www.hybrid-racing.com
HR EK K series AC Install
ACEK01 AC Line Kit for 96-00 Honda Civic
Instructions Version 1.1:
Below you will find instructions on how to install your AC Line kit for the 96-00 Civic Chassis.
*AC Kit may not be legal for highway use. Hybrid Racing is not responsible for any direct or indirect, actual or incidental expense attributed to the use of any performance parts sold by Hybrid Racing LLC. Purchasers agree to all of the terms of this agreement upon the purchase of parts. More information can be found at www.hybrid-racing.com.
PACKAGE CONTENTS:
- 4 AC Line’s, Relay, Install Guide and 5 Mounting Brackets.
PARTS NEEDED:
- Stock 96-2000 Honda Civic condenser, 3 of the OEM EK lines as outlined in the Image below.
- OEM Part Numbers: 80343-SR1-A11, 80342, SR1-A11, 80341-SR1-A11, a High Performance slim fan rated at 1000cfm at 0°H20 or better,
- Oil for lubricating “O” rings.
TOOLS NEEDED:
- 1. Rivets and Rivet gun
- 2. Basic hand tools
- 3. Soldering iron, solder and heat shrink for wiring.
Before beginning the installation of these lines we recommend consulting someone with AC experience. You will need to place the car under a vacuum and double check that you have enough Refrigerant Oil in your system. We have included a guide explaining what to do to make sure that you have enough oil in the system as well as various amounts to add for each line. If you have been driving the car with the condenser on but not sealed you will need to add oil or the system will not function properly.
Installation
1. Begin by removing all of the lines highlighted in RED as outlined by the below image.
2. The lines that are highlighted in Green stay in the car. Their part numbers are 80343-SR1-A11, 80342-SR1-A11, 80341-SR1-A11, if you do not have them you need to get them.
3. Install line labeled A, starting at the firewall end. Make sure you have the correct size O-ring.
4. Install the line labeled B. It connects to Line A, make sure you have an O-ring on the end of line A. The other end will connect to the compressor.
5. You can now install the EK condenser. Using the supplied brackets and hardware secure it to the top. If you removed the lower tabs, use the replacements supplied with this kit.
6. Once the condenser is mounted, install line D which goes from the top of the condenser to the compressor.
7. Now it’s time for like C. This line comes from the bottom of the compressor to the evaporator. Bolt it to the bottom of the condenser, make sure not to damage the O-ring, and run the line all the way to the evaporator and install with a 10mm bolt. It runs alongside the OEM line.
8. Once all of the lines are installed make sure that everything is secure and is not in a position to rub or come in contact with the drive belt. You are now ready to move to the wiring portion of the install.
If you do not have a Kpro skip this step and move onto step 10. If you have a Kpro read on below:
96-98
- Locate the E plug, this connector is white, it is located on the Hybrid Racing engine harness, It plugs into the ECU. It has 31 pin locations.
- Locate C131 plug, this connector is green, it is located on the passenger side under the dash, where the old ECU was located. It has 22 pin locations.
- Locate the B plug, this connector is white, it is located on your ENGINE harness, it plugs into the ECU and its smaller than the E plug. It has 24 pin locations.
- Insert the supplied Yellow wire into pin 18 on your E plug.
- Connect pin 19 a BLK/RED wire located on C131 to pin 18 (the wire you just installed in step 4) on the E plug. Make sure that the wire is now running from the E plug into the DASH. It should not run back into the Hybrid Racing harness.
- Connect pin 7 a BLU/RED wire located on C131 to pin 9 a BLU/BLK wire on the B plug. If you do not have a BLU/BLK wire use the extra supplied wire. Make sure that the wire is now running from the E plug into the DASH. It should not run back into the Hybrid Racing harness.
- Next you will need to activate the Alternate AC input switch under Parameters: Misc. in the Kmanager software. As highlighted in the Image below.
- Finally make sure that your Oil Pressure switch and the Multiplexor are disabled. In the Kmanager software. As highlighted in the image below.
- Once you have completed this move onto main step 10.
- If you have a stock Type R ECU or any other OEM ECU take the relay that was included with your AC lines and connect the wires as follows:
99-00
- Locate the E plug, this connector is white, it is located on the Hybrid Racing engine harness, it plugs into the ECU. It has 31 pin locations.
- Locate the A plug, this connector is grey; it is located on the passenger side under the dash, where the old ECU was located. It has 31 pin locations.
- Locate the B plug, this connector is white, it is located on your ENGINE harness, it plugs into the ECU and it’s smaller than the E plug. It has 24 pin locations.
- Insert the supplied Yellow wire into pin 18 on your E plug.
- Connect pin 17 a BLK/RED wire located on the A plug to pin 18 (the wire you just installed in step 4) on the E plug. Make sure that the wire is now running from the E plug into the DASH. It should not run back into the Hybrid Racing harness.
- Connect pin 27 a BLU/RED wire located on the A plug to pin 9 a BLU/BLK wire on the B plug. If you do not have a BLU/BLK wire use the extra supplied wire. Make sure that the wire is now running from the E plug into the DASH. It should not run back into the Hybrid Racing harness.
- Next you will need to activate the Alternate AC input switch under Parameters: Misc. in the Kmanager software. As highlighted in the Image below.
- Finally make sure that your Oil Pressure switch and the Multiplexor are disabled. In the Kmanager software. As highlighted in the image below.
- Once you have completed this move onto main step 10.
- If you have a stock Type R ECU or any other OEM ECU take the relay that was included with your AC lines and connect the wires as follows:
10. Once the AC lines are installed and the wiring is complete you must take the car to a certified AC technician to have the AC system charged. Make sure to have the technician pressure check and test the system before you leave incase an “O” ring has been damaged during installation.
You have successfully installed your K series AC Kit kit!!
If you have any questions or comments please email
Legal Disclaimer
Users assume all cost and risk associated with these or any other items purchased from the hybrid racing LLC web site.
Parts sold or manufactured by Hybrid Racing LLC may not meet legal requirements for use on public roads. People thinking about purchasing product from Hybrid Racing LLC should check with their local or state authorities for legality. It is the user’s responsibility to know and comply with all local and federal laws and regulations. Use or installation of Hybrid Racing LLC products may affect user insurance and/or vehicle warranty coverage. It is the user’s sole responsibility for consequences that may occur due to having the product installed in his/her vehicle.
Hybrid Racing LLC assumes no legal responsibilities and/or liabilities, whether to user’s vehicle, engine, person(s), and/or property(s), that result from the use of, or servicing of a vehicle of which a Hybrid Racing LLC product has been installed/attempted to be installed, or to any other vehicle(s) and/or person(s), regardless of whether or not this product has any involvement directly or indirectly and/or liability, and/or whether or not proper installation has been carried forth.
All engines, engine parts and electrical components are for OFF ROAD USE ONLY/RACING VEHICLES ONLY. They are not for or to be used on public roads in the USA.
Acquisition of a Hybrid Racing LLC product will act as an acknowledgment of the legal disclaimer stated herein.
Hybrid Racing LLC reserves the right to change this disclaimer at any time without any prior consent or notification.
Should you need to contact us our details are as follows:
Hybrid Racing LLC, 3348 Drusilla Lane, Suite 2C, Baton Rouge, LA 70809
www.hybrid-racing.com
HR EG K series AC Install
ACEG01 AC Line Kit for 92-95 Honda Civic
Instructions Version 1.1:
Below you will find instructions on how to install your AC Line kit for the 92-95 Civic Chassis.
*AC Kit may not be legal for highway use. Hybrid Racing is not responsible for any direct or indirect, actual or incidental expense attributed to the use of any performance parts sold by Hybrid Racing LLC. Purchasers agree to all of the terms of this agreement upon the purchase of parts. More information can be found at www.hybrid-racing.com.
4 AC Line’s, Relay, Install Guide and 5 Mounting Brackets.
NOTE: if you are installing this kit into a 95 civic please email us at will@hybrid-racing.com.
1. Stock 96-2000 Honda Civic condenser these are available from hybrid racing used from
$100.00 depending on availability.
2. An evaporator from a 92-94 Civic
3. Three of the OEM EG lines as outlined in the Image below (these lines are from a 92-94)
- OEM part number: 80343-SR1-A11 LINE 14 $48
- OEM part number: 80342-SR1-A11 LINE 13 $25.03
- OEM part number: 80341-SR1-A11 LINE 12 $65.82
4. A High Performance slim fan rated at 1000cfm at 0°H20 or better that is 2in thick SPAL part number PT# 30100467.
5. Stock bushings for mounting tabs: either 80177-SR1-000 or 74172-SR3-000 based on instruction 6 or 8.
6. Pressure sensor from a 92-94, from EG condenser P# 80440-SK3-901 $52.00.
7. PAG synthetic based Refrigerant oil.
8. Teflon Tape
1. Rivets and Rivet gun
2. Basic hand tools
3. Soldering iron, solder and heat shrink for wiring.
Before beginning the installation of these lines we recommend consulting someone with AC experience. You will need to place the car under a vacuum and double check that you have enough Refrigerant Oil in your system. We have included a guide explaining what to do to make sure that you have enough oil in the system as well as various amounts to add for each line. If you have been driving the car with the condenser on but not sealed you will need to add oil or the system will not function properly.
1. Begin by removing the battery and battery tray to gain access to the OEM AC lines that you need to remove.
2. Remove all of the lines highlighted in RED as outlined by the below image.
3. Next remove your radiator to make room for the installation of the condenser and Line D.
4. The lines that are highlighted in Green above stay in the car. There part numbers are #14 80343-SR1-A11, #13 80342-SR1-A11, #12 80341-SR1-A11, if you do not have them you need to get them.
5. Next take your 96-2000 Civic condensers and attach the 2 brackets and your replacement slim fan as shown leave the thin long one Labeled E loose until after installation. Make sure that the fan is rated at 1000CFM or more. We suggest SPAL fan part # 30100467.
6. If you still have your OEM brackets as shown you can drop your condenser directly into the car using the OEM EG radiator bushings part # 74172-SR3-000.
7. If you have already removed these brackets during the installation of your Radiator you will need to install the 2 L brackets into this location. Use the condenser as a guide as well as the OEM drill and weld marks from the removal of your radiator tabs.
8. Install the brackets using a Rivet gun that can be purchased at your local auto parts store for under $15. You will need to drill 2-3 holes into the L bracket to mount them. You can use the OEM bushings from your EG condenser fan with these brackets EG condenser fan part # 80177-SR1-000.
9. Next take the upper mounting bracket and install the thin adhesive backed bushing material into the inside as shown. Remove any additional material from the bracket.
10. Your condenser is not mounted and you will need to secure it with the upper mounting bracket and bolts that are provided. Make sure to install the thin bushing material to ensure that the bracket does not move. If you do not install the bushing you run the risk of damaging your condenser.
NOTE: Before beginning installation of lines. You may have to slightly bend the lines depending on your specific engine bay. For the most part they will fit but in the event that you do need to bend a line to clear something do so smoothly and softly as you don’t want to kink the line. Make sure that the lines are not resting in a position where they could rub a hole into them ect..
This applies to all lines:
1. Make sure to use refrigerant oil on the O rings to make sure they do not rip or become damaged
2. You can bend the lines slightly to move them off of items in the engine bay. (FAN, BRACKETS, etc etc.)
3. You will use your OEM 10mm bolts.
11. Begin by installing LINE D as shown in the below image. Make sure you have removed the battery and battery tray, also make sure to use refrigerant oil on the O rings to assure they do not rip or become damaged. Once this line is installed you can move on to the next step.
12. Next install LINE B with the low side port (blue cap). These 2 lines connect to each other. Make sure that there is an O ring here or the lines will leak. In addition make sure that they are completely together before securing them with the nut. This means don’t use the tightening of the nut to pull the 2 lines together. You want to make sure that this line is not kinked in any way and it should sit close to and somewhat under the headlight housing. In addition make sure that this line does not sit on the fan in anyway. If you need bend the line slightly to move it off the fan.
13. Next install the high side LINE C (red cap) the high side port will connect to the top of the condenser using the OEM 10mm bolts. Again make sure that the line does not sit on the fan in anyway, if you need to bend the line slightly to move it off the fan do so.
14. Finally install Line A. The side with the 180 degree bend connects to the bottom of the condenser and the other end connects to the evaporator. There is an OPEN port on this line make sure to install the OEM pressure switch here. When installing this switch use Teflon tape or some form of sealant.
15. Once all of the lines are installed make sure that everything is secure and is not in a position to rub or come in contact with the drive belt. You are now ready to move to the wiring portion of the install.
16. Begin by locating your OEM fan connector and your OEM compressor connectors. They will be located here. The FAN connector will have 2 wires one BLK and one BLU/BLK. The compressor connector will have one RED wire.
17. You will need to run your OEM fan connector to the newly installed SLIM performance fan make sure that the fan is pulling and not pushing. If the fan is hooked up backwards it will still work but very inefficiently.
18. Next take the single wire that controls the compressor and extend it to your new K Series compressor. The connectors should be the same from your EG chassis to the K Series compressor.
19. Next connect the OEM pressure switch connector to the sensor installed in LINE A. This connector should have enough space so that you do not have to extend it. This sensor is located in your OEM condenser and has a green body.
20. If you have a K pro continue below. If you do not have a K pro skip to #27
21. Connect A15 BLK/RED wire on the stock ECU connector to E18 on the RSX ECU Connector using the supplied Yellow wire and pin.
22. Connect B5 a BLU/RED wire on the stock ECU connector to B9 a BLU/BLK wire on the RSX ECU Connector.
23. Next you will need to activate the Alternate AC input switch under Parameters: Misc. in the K manager software.
24. Finally make sure that your Oil Pressure switch and the Multiplexor are disabled. In the Kmanager software.
25. SKIP to step 27.
26. If you have a stock Type R ECU or any other OEM ECU take the relay that was included with your AC lines and connect the wires as follows:
92-95 Civic chassis
27. Once the AC lines are installed and the wiring is complete you must take the car to a certified AC technician to have the AC system put under a vacuum and charged. Make sure to have the technician pressure check and test the system before you leave.
You have successfully installed your K series AC Kit kit!!
If you have any questions or comments please email
Legal Disclaimer
Users assume all cost and risk associated with these or any other items purchased from the hybrid racing LLC web site.
Parts sold or manufactured by Hybrid Racing LLC may not meet legal requirements for use on public roads. People thinking about purchasing product from Hybrid Racing LLC should check with their local or state authorities for legality. It is the user’s responsibility to know and comply with all local and federal laws and regulations. Use or installation of Hybrid Racing LLC products may affect user insurance and/or vehicle warranty coverage. It is the user’s sole responsibility for consequences that may occur due to having the product installed in his/her vehicle.
Hybrid Racing LLC assumes no legal responsibilities and/or liabilities, whether to user’s vehicle, engine, person(s), and/or property(s), that result from the use of, or servicing of a vehicle of which a Hybrid Racing LLC product has been installed/attempted to be installed, or to any other vehicle(s) and/or person(s), regardless of whether or not this product has any involvement directly or indirectly and/or liability, and/or whether or not proper installation has been carried forth.
All engines, engine parts and electrical components are for OFF ROAD USE ONLY/RACING VEHICLES ONLY. They are not for or to be used on public roads in the USA.
Acquisition of a Hybrid Racing LLC product will act as an acknowledgment of the legal disclaimer stated herein.
Hybrid Racing LLC reserves the right to change this disclaimer at any time without any prior consent or notification.
Should you need to contact us our details are as follows:
Hybrid Racing LLC, 3348 Drusilla Lane, Suite 2C, Baton Rouge, LA 70809
www.hybrid-racing.com
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